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The Formation of the Grand Canyon | How the Earth Was Made (S2, E1) | Full Episode | History

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FULL TRANSCRIPT

0:01

[music playing]

0:02

NARRATOR: Earth, a unique planet, restless and dynamic.

0:07

Continents shift and clash.

0:14

Glaciers grow and recede, titanic forces that

0:19

are constantly at work, leaving a trail of geological mysteries

0:23

behind.

0:27

One of these mysteries is centered here,

0:30

in the Grand Canyon in Arizona.

0:34

Close to a billion tons of rock have been carved out

0:37

of the ground.

0:41

The canyon left behind could hold all the river water

0:44

on Earth and still be less than half full.

0:49

For more than a century, scientists

0:51

have debated how and when this vast chasm was created.

0:58

And now geologists are uncovering fresh evidence

1:03

of how the Grand Canyon fits into the ever evolving story

1:07

of how the Earth was made.

1:16

The Grand Canyon, one of America's most spectacular

1:22

natural wonders, a canyon 18 miles across at its widest

1:29

point, 277 miles long, and more than a mile deep.

1:39

It is so vast that it can even be seen from space.

1:47

Although Hells Canyon in Idaho is almost half a mile deeper

1:52

and Australia's Capertee Valley is nearly a mile wider,

1:56

the Grand Canyon remains the most famous of them all.

2:00

And it also holds one of geologist greatest mysteries.

2:04

Just how did the Colorado River, only a tenth

2:08

the size of the Mississippi, form such a large canyon?

2:13

The answer has eluded scientists for more than a century

2:16

because many of the clues they normally rely on

2:20

have been swept away by the river's water

2:22

over millions of years or buried by landslides

2:29

or destroyed by volcanoes.

2:33

JOHN DOUGLASS: It seems like we should understand perfectly

2:35

how the Grand Canyon formed.

2:37

The problem is we've lost a tremendous amount of evidence.

2:39

It's like a murder mystery where most of the evidence is lost.

2:42

And so the best we can do is piece together

2:44

the evidence that we have.

2:47

NARRATOR: Even so, slowly but surely,

2:49

this geological icon is giving up its most ancient secrets.

2:56

The canyon's richly colored layers

2:58

offer scientists one of the most complete geological records

3:02

on Earth.

3:05

The first concept you have to get your mind around

3:07

as you're thinking about the Grand Canyon

3:09

is that the stories told by the rocks are exceedingly old,

3:13

millions and billions of years.

3:18

NARRATOR: Karlstrom and his team are setting out

3:20

on a grueling geology field trip along the Colorado River.

3:27

It won't be an easy ride because this 1,450-mile-long river

3:32

packs a punch.

3:34

More than 800 million gallons of water

3:37

can flow down the Colorado every hour, more water every second

3:45

than the average US household uses in a year.

3:50

Karlstrom is investigating the ancient history of the land

3:53

that was here before the Grand Canyon even existed,

3:57

and for that he needs to identify its oldest rocks.

4:02

He is following in the footsteps of pioneer explorer John Wesley

4:06

Powell.

4:08

In 1869, he was the first man to successfully ride the Colorado

4:13

through the entire length of the canyon.

4:16

KARL KARLSTROM: All of us who work in the canyon

4:18

as scientists admire John Wesley Powell immensely

4:21

for his pioneer in scientific exploration of the Grand

4:25

Canyon.

4:26

And the questions that he framed are still questions

4:28

that we work on today.

4:32

NARRATOR: One of Powell's discoveries

4:34

was these intimidating black rocks

4:36

at the very base of the canyon.

4:39

KARL KARLSTROM: Well, we're deep in the Grand Canyon,

4:41

right by the Colorado River.

4:43

You can see these spectacular black rocks.

4:45

Actually, John Wesley Powell called them ugly black rocks

4:49

because for him these hard rocks made bad rapids,

4:52

and that was harder on his trip.

4:54

But for those of us who are interested in the early history

4:57

of Grand Canyon, these rocks are the bonanza.

5:03

NARRATOR: Powell had no way of dating these rocks,

5:05

now identified as Vishnu Schist.

5:10

All he could conclude from their appearance

5:11

was that they had once been molten deep underground.

5:16

But Karlstrom has an advantage, modern instruments

5:19

that can accurately date the rocks by measuring

5:22

radioactive decay.

5:24

And the first step in figuring out what happened here

5:27

in the ancient past is to record when these rocks were created.

5:35

KARL KARLSTROM: These rocks are about 1.7 billion years old.

5:39

It's less than half of the age of the Earth.

5:42

So we have a great story here in the Grand Canyon

5:45

of the last almost two billion years of Earth's history.

5:50

NARRATOR: But Karlstrom needs more information,

5:53

and these ugly black rocks hold another crucial clue

5:56

to what this land looked like before the canyon was cut.

6:01

They can tell him not only when they were formed, but also

6:05

precisely how deep in the Earth's crust they were made.

6:11

These tiny stones embedded throughout the ancient boulders

6:14

are literally jewels, garnets, that

6:18

only form under immense pressure, the sort of pressure

6:22

that's found when layers are crushed

6:24

by the weight of millions of tons of rock on top of them.

6:30

KARL KARLSTROM: The silver bullet clue is the garnet.

6:34

These garnets are the key to understanding

6:36

the amount of rock above us.

6:40

NARRATOR: By analyzing the chemical structure

6:42

of the garnet, in particular its calcium content,

6:45

investigators can determine how much weight of rock

6:49

was crushing down upon it at the moment it was made.

6:58

In simple terms, if you analyze the garnet

7:01

and you see higher calcium content of the garnet,

7:05

it means you're deeper into a mountain belt,

7:07

more rocks above you.

7:09

So we take these garnets back to the laboratory,

7:12

we cut a very thin section, we put them

7:15

under an electron micro probe, and the scientific result

7:19

after this analysis is that we were six miles deep

7:23

beneath the surface of the peaks, which were above us.

7:27

And that's a long ways.

7:32

NARRATOR: So nearly 2 billion years ago, before the canyon

7:35

evolved, ancient mountains 6 miles above sea level

7:39

stood here, towering peaks as high as the modern Himalayas.

7:45

Over the next 500 million years, these mountains

7:48

were worn away by the relentless forces of erosion.

7:53

Over millennia, the freezing and thawing of ice

7:56

cracked open the rock of the mountain slopes.

7:59

Wind and water carried the rock debris down towards the oceans,

8:04

leaving behind a flat and featureless plain with no sign

8:08

at all of a canyon.

8:12

KARL KARLSTROM: Geologists learned

8:13

to visualize the way that this place looked in the past.

8:17

Knowing how to read the texture of the rock, the kind of rock

8:21

it is, the fossils that are in it,

8:23

geologists can-- it's like a detective story.

8:26

You can uncover what this place looked like billions of years

8:29

ago.

8:37

NARRATOR: This is now desert country, more than 300 miles

8:41

inland.

8:43

And yet, these shells encased in solid rocks are ocean fossils.

8:53

KARL KARLSTROM: In this one cliff,

8:55

you can find fossil shells that look like you pick up

8:58

on the seashore today.

8:59

They die, they fall to the bottom of the sea floor,

9:02

and they get trapped and die in the mud

9:05

at the bottom of the ocean at the time

9:07

that they're being deposited.

9:10

NARRATOR: Shells like these come from shallow tropical waters,

9:14

an inland sea that first arrived here half a billion years ago

9:19

and covered the flat low lying plain.

9:23

But that did not happen just once.

9:27

Many different layers in the walls of the Grand Canyon

9:30

tell Karlstrom that over hundreds of millions of years,

9:33

this land has been submerged by the sea

9:36

not just once, but at least eight times.

9:40

The last time this part of Arizona was under the sea

9:43

was around 80 million years ago.

9:47

KARL KARLSTROM: As we go higher in layers in the Grand Canyon,

9:50

we have different age seas which are depositing different kinds

9:53

of rocks, different environments, different fossils

9:56

that live at different times.

9:58

And this chapter of seas coming in and seas going out

10:02

is itself hundreds of millions of years.

10:06

NARRATOR: Each sea deposited different types of material

10:09

that hardened to become solid rock.

10:13

Some sediment was sand that became buff-colored sandstone.

10:20

Some was mud that hardened into darker shale,

10:25

while the calcified remains of marine organisms

10:28

were crushed into light-colored limestone.

10:33

And yet, the dominant color is red.

10:42

That comes from iron locked within all the rocks.

10:48

Over millions of years, the iron rusts

10:50

into a distinctive red hue.

10:55

For the geology detectives, descending into the Grand

10:58

Canyon is like traveling back in time.

11:06

The calcium content inside garnet gemstones

11:09

reveals that nearly 2 billion years ago mountains

11:12

the size of Mount Everest stood where the Grand Canyon is now.

11:18

Sea fossils exposed in the cliffs

11:20

show that as late as 500 million years ago the land

11:24

was the muddy bottom of an ancient inland sea.

11:31

The next puzzle for geologists is uncovering which

11:35

awesome forces transformed that unremarkable land

11:39

into this breathtaking natural wonder of the world.

11:51

From 1.7 billion years ago to 70 million years ago,

11:55

the landscape of western Arizona has undergone a series

11:58

of extraordinary changes.

12:01

Ancient mountains have given way to prehistoric seas, which

12:05

have withdrawn to reveal a low-lying flat plain stretching

12:10

as far as the eye can see.

12:14

The magnificent gorge of the Grand Canyon

12:16

does not yet exist.

12:19

But over the next 20 million years,

12:21

this landscape was to undergo immense changes that

12:24

would create a unique high plateau

12:27

and set the scene for the formation of the canyon.

12:34

Ancient fossils of sea animals tell geologists

12:37

that this land was once under the waves of an inland ocean,

12:42

but that leads to yet another mystery.

12:46

The investigation needs to figure out why these undersea

12:50

rocks are now high in the air, thousands of feet above sea

12:54

level.

12:56

KARL KARLSTROM: It's surprising to go up a mile above sea level

12:59

and you find a clam shell or what looks like a climb

13:02

clamshell.

13:03

And you say, that's what I see when I go down to the ocean.

13:05

So why is it here a mile above sea level?

13:10

NARRATOR: It's clear that this region underwent

13:12

a type of geological disturbance that pushed up

13:16

the entire seabed.

13:20

Geologists discovered in the 1960s

13:23

that collisions between separate plates of the Earth's crust

13:26

could force land up into the air.

13:30

It happens all over the globe and usually deforms the land

13:34

into tilted mountain ranges, but this Arizona uplift was unique.

13:40

KARL KARLSTROM: After all the flat layers

13:42

are deposited in that sea level there was a major uplift

13:45

event called the Laramide orogeny which lifted

13:47

these rocks without tilting them, still flat, lifted them

13:51

up to high elevation.

13:54

NARRATOR: Because the land rows straight up,

13:57

like being in an elevator, it formed a high, smooth plateau.

14:03

The sea that had been there drained back

14:05

toward the northeast.

14:08

But as of yet, there was no Grand Canyon.

14:12

The Colorado River, the force that

14:14

cut the canyon from the rock, had yet to arrive.

14:20

KARL KARLSTROM: Geologists from the very early days,

14:23

from the late 1800s, are quite comfortable with the knowledge

14:26

that the Colorado river has carved the Grand Canyon.

14:30

NARRATOR: The high plateau was surrounded

14:32

by even higher mountain ranges.

14:35

New rivers began flowing from the mountains out

14:38

across the plateau.

14:42

It's essential for the investigation

14:44

to establish when the Colorado River in particular

14:47

arrived because only then could it begin to carve the canyon.

14:56

Until a few decades ago, some investigators

14:59

thought this ancient riverbed called Hindu Canyon provided

15:03

the answer.

15:06

They believed that Hindu Canyon's creation

15:09

50 million years ago marked the arrival of the Colorado River

15:14

and the beginnings of the Grand Canyon.

15:19

But in 1969, the discovery of these pebbles

15:24

turned everything that geologists thought they knew

15:26

about the canyon on its head.

15:30

It turns out that to explain how the Grand Canyon got

15:33

there is very much more complex than people thought.

15:36

So the early geologists thought it was simple,

15:38

but now we realize there's a lot more to the story,

15:40

and it's kind of a detective story.

15:42

You start out with a few clues and you put the clues together.

15:45

And then, finally, you get the satisfaction

15:48

of saying, well, I figured this out before anybody else did.

15:52

NARRATOR: Figuring it out before anyone else

15:54

was just what young did in 1969, when

15:57

he was a 24-year-old geology graduate student at Washington

16:01

University.

16:04

His professors sent him to investigate Hindu Canyon.

16:08

But when young arrived at the dusty riverbed,

16:11

he discovered that it had nothing to do with the Colorado

16:14

or the Grand Canyon itself.

16:18

His discovery flew in the face of all

16:21

the established geological theories

16:24

and revolutionized thinking about the canyon's history

16:29

the evidence young had uncovered was the alignment of pebbles

16:33

in the bed of the river.

16:35

RICHARD YOUNG: If you look at these pebbles,

16:37

you can see that the pebbles are flowing--

16:40

or the pebbles are oriented in this direction, which

16:42

is a stable direction for water flowing to my right.

16:47

If the pebbles had been oriented this way,

16:48

the water would have flipped them over.

16:50

So when we find pebbles that are oriented this way,

16:53

that tells us that the water was flowing to my right.

16:58

NARRATOR: It is a crucial clue.

17:00

The Colorado River could never have flowed to Young's right.

17:04

It has always run in the opposite direction,

17:06

towards the Pacific Ocean.

17:09

The river here 50 million years ago was not the Colorado,

17:15

and it did not cut the Grand Canyon.

17:21

Young's findings meant scientists had to rethink all

17:24

their ideas about when the Colorado had arrived

17:27

on the plateau and about the age of the canyon.

17:33

They started examining evidence from another less ancient site.

17:39

This is Muddy Creek, near Lake mead Arizona, just a few miles

17:44

downstream from where the Colorado river exits the Grand

17:48

Canyon today.

17:54

The underlying rocks prove that this was once the site

17:57

of a vast freshwater lake.

18:01

RICHARD YOUNG: The upper part of the Muddy Creek formation

18:03

is this nice limestone which formed in a freshwater lake.

18:07

The water would have been very clean.

18:08

There would have been lots of plants and animals

18:10

living in the water.

18:11

And as they sank to the bottom, the calcium carbonate

18:13

in their shells would form this limestone, which is typically

18:17

what forms a limestone rock.

18:20

NARRATOR: The limestone is the calcified remains

18:23

of the creatures that once lived in this lake.

18:26

Then, 5.5 million years ago, the animals all disappeared.

18:32

There were no shells to make fresh limestone.

18:37

The only explanation is that the animals died 5.5 million years

18:41

ago because that was the date when the Colorado River arrived

18:46

here.

18:47

The river would have been carrying

18:48

masses of dirt and rock sediment from the fledgling Grand

18:51

Canyon.

18:54

RICHARD YOUNG: The water would've

18:56

been too muddy and dirty, and limestone does not form

18:59

in dirty, silty, muddy water.

19:01

It's just incompatible.

19:03

The animals and plants that live in such a lake

19:05

can't exist if there's a lot of silt and mud in the water.

19:10

NARRATOR: So the muddy death of the lake

19:12

gave geologists a confirmed date for when the Colorado arrived

19:16

in Arizona and commenced its excavations.

19:20

The Grand Canyon was born a mere 5.5 million years ago.

19:27

The investigation has reached a significant milestone.

19:31

It has discovered the age of the canyon.

19:37

The angles at which pebbles lie in ancient riverbeds

19:40

revealed that the Grand Canyon is far younger than geologists

19:44

had previously ever suspected.

19:49

The limestone discovered at Muddy Creek

19:52

reveals the date that the Colorado river arrived

19:54

on the plateau and the true age of the canyon,

19:58

5.5 million years old.

20:03

Now geologists have a new mystery to solve,

20:06

discovering why the Colorado river took the path it did

20:10

some 5.5 million years ago and why it carved a canyon

20:14

of such remarkable dimensions.

20:22

The investigation into the history of the Grand Canyon

20:25

has uncovered a 1.7 billion-year-old landscape that

20:29

has evolved from ancient mountains

20:31

through to the Colorado Plateau.

20:34

5.5 million years ago, the Colorado River

20:38

began carving out the Grand Canyon from this plateau.

20:43

The question scientists now had to answer was,

20:45

what happened at that time to cause the river to dig deep

20:50

and carve out the canyon?

20:53

It is a debate that has been going on

20:55

for more than a century and which continues today.

21:00

JOHN DOUGLASS: I got interested in the Grand Canyon

21:03

when I went to school and started studying.

21:05

And I heard about the different ideas

21:07

especially the Grand Canyon and was just blown

21:10

away when I found out we did not understand how the Grand

21:12

Canyon formed.

21:13

Something as iconic as the Grand Canyon wasn't understood just

21:16

seemed crazy to me, and so I basically

21:19

decided to dedicate a large portion my life to trying

21:21

to figure it out.

21:24

NARRATOR: One theory is that several ancient rivers merged,

21:27

and their combined cutting power started digging out the canyon.

21:33

Another assumes that the river cut down into the plateau

21:36

as the land uplifted around it.

21:40

But John Douglass has his own theory,

21:43

one that has gained respect among many leading geologists

21:46

since he first published his ideas in 2000.

21:51

What Douglas calls his spillover theory

21:54

seems to work well on paper.

21:58

Spillover's incredibly easy.

21:59

All it means is the Colorado River poured into a basin.

22:03

When it poured into that basin, it had to form a lake,

22:06

and this lake was huge.

22:09

All that lake had to do is rise and then

22:10

spill across the plateau.

22:13

It poured down, cutting rapidly, and over time you

22:17

would've ended up with the beginnings of Grand Canyon

22:19

very quickly.

22:21

NARRATOR: At his college campus in Phoenix,

22:23

Douglass is building scale model experiment

22:26

to see if his spillover theory actually works in real life.

22:31

He sculpts tons of dirt into a model of the Colorado Plateau.

22:36

Running faucets represent the flow of the Colorado river

22:40

into the ancient lake.

22:44

JOHN DOUGLASS: Now we have our large lake.

22:47

The water's getting higher, it's getting ready to spill across.

22:51

We have a tiny little trickle of water pouring down

22:53

off the lake.

22:54

A little tiny trickle of water doesn't seem like much.

22:57

But over time, that little bit of water flowing down

23:00

that steep slope is going to gain energy.

23:02

It's going to start cutting, making waterfalls that

23:04

work their way back.

23:07

One waterfall has now reached the lake.

23:10

You can see that we have just released a significant amount

23:12

of water, much more water than was previously pouring down.

23:16

Now we have a huge canyon cutting.

23:18

Landslides are sloughing off the side of the canyon walls,

23:21

the water flushing it downstream.

23:23

The lake, you can see that it's starting to shrink in size.

23:25

That lake is getting lower.

23:27

And right there, you can see that we've

23:29

cut our own small scale version of the Grand Canyon.

23:40

NARRATOR: Douglass's experiment proves that the spillover

23:42

theory works in miniature.

23:45

But he needs evidence to show that it could have happened

23:48

on an infinitely bigger scale.

23:52

Douglass sets out in search of a lake large enough

23:56

and old enough to be the source of his spill over flood.

24:02

He has a prime suspect in mind.

24:05

This is the site of the ancient Lake Bidahochi,

24:09

100 miles to the east of the Grand Canyon,

24:13

and a clue here on the old lake bed

24:16

reveals how deep this lake once was.

24:21

These green clays, which indicate deep lake water, this

24:25

is the classic evidence for the giant lake

24:27

necessary for the overflow explanation of Grand Canyon.

24:31

NARRATOR: These green deposits are only created

24:34

in one specific environment.

24:38

JOHN DOUGLASS: To have green lake clays,

24:39

you need deeper water where there is little oxidation.

24:42

I think that's indication that the Colorado River has arrived

24:45

in this basin, that it's made its way from the Rocky

24:47

Mountains to this location, and this is its basically stopover

24:50

point before it eventually spills across

24:52

to form the Grand Canyon.

24:58

NARRATOR: Establishing the depth that this point lets Douglass

25:00

work out how large an area was once covered by water.

25:05

He compares the depth of the water with the contour height

25:08

lines of the surrounding countryside,

25:12

and that shows that Lake Bidahochi once spread

25:15

over 20,000 square miles and contained more than 3,000

25:19

cubic miles of water.

25:22

That makes it bigger than Lake Michigan.

25:30

Douglass needs to date the age of this lake.

25:33

For his spillover theory to work,

25:35

it has to be older than the Grand Canyon, more than 5.5

25:39

million years.

25:42

He unearths the proof he needs in these deep water fossils.

25:47

OK.

25:48

These fossil shells are freshwater mollusks,

25:53

maybe as young as 6 million years old.

25:57

NARRATOR: The dates match up.

25:58

The lake was here at the right time

26:00

to have spilled over and begun cutting the Grand Canyon.

26:04

Dating the fossils helped confirm Douglass's belief,

26:08

but his search for more evidence continues.

26:12

JOHN DOUGLASS: In reality, we're never

26:13

going to know how it formed to 100% certainty

26:16

unless someone builds a time machine.

26:18

By doing this kind of work, all you're trying to do

26:20

is increase your level of confidence on your ideas,

26:23

build up your case, build up your evidence.

26:26

NARRATOR: Building up his evidence

26:28

is exactly what Joel Pederson is doing.

26:31

He is using the very latest technology

26:34

to prove exactly how fast the Grand Canyon was carved.

26:39

He has found the evidence he needs right here,

26:42

at the very start of the Grand Canyon.

26:44

JOEL PEDERSON: Here at Lee's Ferry,

26:46

there are all of these gravels that are evidence of where

26:49

the river has been in the past and the path it has taken

26:51

during incision.

26:53

And amongst the gravels sometimes

26:54

you see these great lenses of sand,

26:57

and we can use the sand as you get an absolute date

27:01

on these deposits.

27:07

NARRATOR: As the Colorado river carved out the canyon,

27:10

it deposited more and more of the gravel and sand debris

27:14

at this spot.

27:15

Newer layers buried older layers over millions of years,

27:21

and geologists now have instruments

27:23

that can measure how light has affected individual atoms

27:26

within the sand.

27:28

That reveals precisely when each sand layer was originally

27:32

buried, away from the light of the sun.

27:38

For the technique to be accurate,

27:40

it's essential that the sample is not exposed to daylight.

27:44

JOEL PEDERSON: So here we can take a metal tube,

27:48

and we can hammer it into the sand outcrop.

27:50

And in the metal tube, then, we'll get a sample of the sand,

27:53

and it'll stay out of sunlight.

27:55

And then we take it back to a darkroom laboratory

27:58

and remove the sand, still sheltered from light,

28:01

and then we can analyze the optical properties of it

28:04

to get an absolute age.

28:06

In this case, the absolute age would tell us

28:08

when the river was at this point in the landscape.

28:11

[music playing]

28:20

NARRATOR: Back at the lab, Pederson compares multiple sand

28:23

samples, each from a different depth in the canyon deposits.

28:30

Discovering the age of each individual layer of sand

28:34

lets him estimate how rapidly the river has been cutting down

28:38

through the rocks.

28:39

JOEL PEDERSON: Here at Lee's Ferry,

28:40

we can use this last half a million year history along

28:43

with our absolute dates and all the information we get,

28:46

and the rate of canyon cutting here

28:49

is about 1,000 feet per million years.

28:53

NARRATOR: That's one foot in every 1,000 years,

28:56

a little more than 1 inch every century.

28:59

It proves that the entire 5,300-foot deep Grand Canyon

29:04

could have been cut in a little more than 5 million years.

29:09

In geological terms, the mere blink of an eye.

29:15

The investigation is assembling evidence on how the Grand

29:17

Canyon was created.

29:21

Green clay deposits support the theory

29:23

that an ancient lake was big enough

29:25

to spill over and trigger the canyon's creation.

29:30

Deep water fossils prove that the lake

29:32

existed 6 million years ago, the right time

29:35

to have overflowed and cut the Grand Canyon.

29:40

But proving how the canyon cutting began

29:43

is only part of the investigation.

29:45

This is one of the widest and deepest canyons

29:48

in the entire world, and to discover

29:51

how it grew so large geologists will have to examine some

29:55

of the most dramatic and dangerous features

29:58

the canyon has to offer.

30:06

The landscape of Western Arizona has transformed

30:09

from ancient mountains to prehistoric seas

30:12

to a flat uplifted plane.

30:15

Just 5.5 million years ago, the Grand Canyon

30:19

was cut through this plateau.

30:22

It happened so fast that geologists had to think again

30:26

about the awesome power of the Colorado River.

30:31

KARL KARLSTROM: It cuts through rock not by the water wearing

30:34

it away.

30:35

You could pour water over rock for a long time,

30:37

and nothing would happen.

30:38

It's the tools that the river carries.

30:41

The river carries boulders and sand, and those bump

30:43

against each other and they eat away at the rock.

30:48

NARRATOR: Every day, the Colorado

30:49

can carry almost 500,000 tons of rock and debris,

30:54

enough material to fill more than 100 Olympic swimming

30:57

pools.

30:59

That is five tons every second.

31:03

So investigating river erosion is never an easy task

31:07

because the powerful flow of the Colorado River

31:09

has scoured and washed away many of the clues

31:13

that the rock detectives need.

31:17

They looked for evidence in the hundreds of rapids that disrupt

31:20

the river's progress.

31:23

The swirling rapids are created when flash floods sweep

31:26

boulders into the river from the many smaller side canyons.

31:31

JOEL PEDERSON: The river has to focus a lot of energy

31:33

at these points to deal with all of the boulders that are coming

31:37

in it.

31:38

The more of coarse boulders, the more resistant material

31:40

that the river has to fight against to accomplish

31:42

its incision, the steeper it gets.

31:45

NARRATOR: As the water flows over the rapids,

31:48

it cuts deep into the bedrock below.

31:52

At this set of rapids alone, the river drops 10 feet.

31:57

And there are a lot of rapids on this section of the Colorado.

32:03

JOEL PEDERSON: So put all these rapids together

32:05

in a string through Grand Canyon,

32:07

and that gives you the overall sort of unusually steep Grand

32:11

Canyon profile of the river going through it.

32:14

NARRATOR: Gravity and simple physics

32:16

are at the heart of how the Colorado has carved

32:18

so much rock so quickly.

32:22

5.5 million years ago, the Colorado River

32:26

was flowing over the steep edge of the plateau that

32:29

had been pushed up thousands of feet above sea level.

32:35

The river ran rapidly over the steep downward slope

32:38

and swept rough, rocky debris along in its wake.

32:42

An incision formed, digging back into the edge of the plateau.

32:48

JOEL PEDERSON: The power of the river

32:49

to incise as it dropped off that huge escarpment must have been

32:52

really great, and so the river quickly incised there.

32:57

And that very steep drop off of incision

33:00

would have worked its way back upstream through the Grand

33:03

Canyon region.

33:05

It's sort of a waterfall that a few million years later has

33:10

spread itself out through the length of the river.

33:15

NARRATOR: It is this steep dropoff between the Colorado

33:17

Plateau and the land beneath it that fuels the Colorado's

33:21

incredible erosive power.

33:25

The river begins its life high in the Rocky Mountains

33:27

in Colorado.

33:29

For every mile that it travels, the river falls 10 feet.

33:35

By contrast, the Mississippi River,

33:37

a river moving 10 times as much water as the Colorado,

33:41

meanders across a flat landscape.

33:44

With no steep slope to drive it, the Mississippi

33:47

can't carve any canyon.

33:53

But the Grand Canyon is not just steep, it's also wide.

34:03

And here on the South Rim, at the heart of the national park,

34:07

the true majesty of the Grand Canyon is revealed.

34:13

This is where the canyon is at its widest,

34:16

as much as 18 miles from rim to rim.

34:22

This landscape appears serene now,

34:24

but its unique beauty was forged by violent forces.

34:30

JOHN DOUGLASS: Grand Canyon oftentimes is associated

34:32

with the Colorado River.

34:33

The Colorado River is what cut the Grand Canyon.

34:35

It formed the initial gash to allow the river to flow across.

34:40

But what makes Grand Canyon grand is really

34:42

its width and all the layers of rock that are exposed,

34:45

and that isn't only solely tied to the Colorado River.

34:48

What's happening is this rock that's exposed,

34:51

it's being beaten on by rain, and the rain gets in there,

34:53

and it weathers the rock and it weakens it.

34:55

And then because this is so incredibly steep,

34:57

gravity will act on that material,

34:59

transporting it deeper down into the river,

35:01

flushing it back out.

35:03

And that process just repeats over and over again

35:05

to allow the canyon to get wider over time.

35:07

We have classic rock falls that are cascading down

35:10

onto the black rock in the far distance.

35:13

Those events are indications that this is actively

35:15

ongoing canyon widening and retreating

35:20

from these processes.

35:23

NARRATOR: The fall of these rocks is not a gradual process.

35:27

This is erosion at its most violent.

35:31

JOHN DOUGLASS: Very few people are ever

35:33

going to see Grand Canyon actually change.

35:35

I've spent numerous nights in Grand Canyon,

35:37

and I've only heard one or two rocks ever fall.

35:39

But change will happen.

35:41

And when it does happen, it happens very rapidly.

35:45

NARRATOR: The rocks fall because both harder and softer rocks

35:49

are layered, one on top of the other, in the canyon walls.

35:54

The harder layers are made of limestone and sandstone.

35:59

These rocks don't weather easily.

36:02

But the softer shale beneath is made

36:04

of mud that expands when it rains, causing the shale

36:08

to crumble away.

36:12

Those weaker rocks, they weather and retreat back.

36:15

And they undermine the resistant cliff rocks

36:17

above that will then fail as dramatic rockfall landslide

36:21

events, allowing the canyon to increase its width.

36:24

[landslide]

36:35

NARRATOR: The rock falls are merely

36:36

the first step towards increasing the grand canyon's

36:39

enormous width.

36:42

Without the help of an accomplice,

36:44

the entire canyon would fill up with debris.

36:46

JOHN DOUGLASS: Without the Colorado River,

36:48

you could not have the Grand Canyon as wide as it is.

36:51

By flushing the material downstream,

36:53

it wipes it all clean to allow a whole new material to build up

36:56

again.

36:57

And once you repeat that over and over again,

36:59

it allows the canyon walls to retreat back,

37:01

and the entire canyon just grows.

37:03

These guys continue to march and push and move all that material

37:07

downstream.

37:10

NARRATOR: The mystery of how the Grand Canyon grew so deep

37:13

and so wide is being solved.

37:19

The Colorado rapids demonstrate how

37:22

the steepness of the riverbed helps

37:23

carve the canyon so quickly.

37:27

Rock falls on the canyon walls reveal how weak rocks rapidly

37:31

widen the canyon across the plains of Arizona.

37:36

But this is far from the end of the Grand Canyon story.

37:42

In just the last million years, the canyon

37:45

has been transformed by other overwhelmingly powerful natural

37:48

forces.

38:01

Geologists have established that over 1.7 billion years,

38:06

the Grand Canyon emerged from ancient mountains

38:09

and prehistoric seas to become one of North America's

38:13

geological icons.

38:19

This is a rare look at one of the most remote

38:21

and secret parts of the Grand Canyon.

38:25

A series of small, cone-shaped mountains

38:27

line the canyons edge, and there are flows of black rock running

38:34

down from each rim.

38:39

They come from a remarkable era just 725,000 years ago,

38:45

when the piece of the canyon was shattered by volcanoes.

38:54

[music playing]

39:08

This is Toroweap Point, in a remote area known

39:12

as the Arizona Strip, one of the most isolated places

39:19

in the continental US.

39:23

Few people other than geologists ever

39:25

see this area, although it boasts some of the canyons most

39:30

stunning views.

39:34

The rock detectives come to see how

39:36

explosive volcanic eruptions have changed

39:39

the canyon in the comparatively recent geological past.

39:45

This black rock that seems to have spilled

39:48

over the rim of the canyon is an ancient lava flow,

39:52

what was once boiling hot rock, forever frozen in time.

40:00

Powell talked about a river of molten magma

40:02

pouring down into a river of melted snow,

40:07

and he talked about how dramatic it must have been,

40:09

the boiling and seething and the steam.

40:12

And it must have been amazing.

40:15

You would picture red hot lava like you would see in Hawaii

40:20

pouring down the canyon walls and coating them.

40:23

And then once it reached the river,

40:27

it would immediately create just giant clouds of steam.

40:34

NARRATOR: The extensive lava flows

40:36

erupting from as many as 100 cinder cone volcanoes

40:40

had a dramatic effect on the Colorado River running below.

40:45

Crow believes that on at least eight occasions

40:48

the volcanic eruptions created huge lava dams that

40:52

block the river completely.

40:56

Well, behind me here is one of many basalt remnants.

41:00

They're the remains of lava flows

41:02

that poured down the canyon, partially filling it.

41:05

And then, subsequently, the Colorado River

41:10

has removed all but a few little chunks.

41:14

NARRATOR: The lava dams brought even the powerful Colorado

41:18

River to a halt for a while.

41:26

In time, the dams were no match for the Colorado.

41:29

The rising pressure of the dammed river behind them

41:32

eventually became too much, and they shattered.

41:36

[music playing]

41:43

This explosive episode has left its mark on the canyon's walls.

41:49

Today, the cones appear to be extinct and lifeless,

41:53

although some geologists believe that the volcanoes might not

41:56

be finished quite yet.

42:00

The last eruption that sent lava pouring into Grand Canyon

42:04

probably occurred about 100,000 years ago.

42:07

There is evidence for an eruption on the rim that didn't

42:12

actually make it into Grand Canyon that's 1,000 years old.

42:16

So there's, I think, a good chance that in the future

42:21

there may be eruptions here as well.

42:26

NARRATOR: The grand canyon's future has yet to be written,

42:29

but investigators now understand the story of its past.

42:35

The calcium in the garnet discovered

42:37

at the base of the canyon reveals the ancient beginnings

42:40

of this landscape, an immense mountain range.

42:45

Limestone rocks show that the canyon was only

42:48

formed 5.5 million years ago.

42:52

Green clays that can only form in deep water

42:56

prove that a huge lake, bigger than lake Michigan,

42:58

could have been the trigger for this canyon carving.

43:03

And rock falls from the crumbling cliff

43:05

faces of the canyon rim are evidence of how the canyon grew

43:09

to the shape it is today.

43:14

Geologists have been studying the canyon since the mid 1800s.

43:19

Yet, even after more than a century of investigation,

43:22

the story is still far from finished.

43:26

The landscape is evolving, and it's

43:28

going to be changing through the geological future.

43:31

And so the story about the geology

43:34

and the fascinating questions here is not one that's over,

43:36

and it's going to continue to evolve as scientists continue

43:39

to do work here.

43:43

NARRATOR: The dynamic geological phenomenon of the Grand Canyon

43:47

is a place where the vast, fiery forces within the Earth's

43:50

crust.

43:51

Do battle with the inexorable power of water.

43:54

The result, a natural wonder whose walls record nearly 2

43:59

billion years of our planet's turbulent geological history.

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