Light Cured Gel Part 2
FULL TRANSCRIPT
with nail enhancements there is two
basic gel types that are used these are
hard gel and soft gel hard gels are also
known as traditional gels they are
strong enough to build a nail
enhancement and they have a non-porous
surface soft gels are also known as
soakoff gels they are formulated to
Overlay the natural nail and are easily
removed with
acetone both both systems are a great
system to use it is really just personal
preference and how the guest wears their
nails both systems are going to use a
variety of gel
viscosities viscosity is the measurement
of the thickness or thinness of a liquid
gel can be described as both thin
viscosity medium viscosity thick
viscosity and then the thickest which is
a building or a sculptured
gel let's discuss these different types
of gels so that you're better equipped
when it comes to performing nail
Services a bonding gel is used to
increase adhesion to the natural nail
plate oftentimes people will call this a
gel primer a bonding gel is going to
vary in consistency and chemical
components this is going to decrease the
tendency for for your gel nails to lift
manufacturers usually will create new
technology related related to bonding
gel formulation some manufacturers use
air dry bonding systems which are no
less effective than a system cured in a
lamp so you might see with one company
that you paint on your gel primer and
with
another company that you put it on and
cure it under the lamp both of these are
very effective ways to prime your nails
for a gel service it all depends on your
manufacturers
instructions next we have a building gel
building gels usually have a thick
viscosity this is going to allow you to
build an arch or an
extension these gels are going to allow
thickness to the enhancement with just
one or two coats each gel coat has to be
cured before we add another coat hence
the building gel some gels can be tinted
some can be natural colored or we could
create a nice pink and white French tip
building gels can be self-leveling or
non- self-leveling when a building gel
is non- selfle leveling it has a thick
viscosity and can leave the nail bumpy
causing us to have to do more filing a
self-leveling gel is going to add
thickness to the fingernail but it's not
as thick or bumpy these make it so that
we can reduce the amount of filing and
shaping to our
nail another type of gel that has gained
a lot of popularity recently is a
polymer gel this is also known as a poly
gel or an Acro gel this thick viscosity
building gel is going to allow control
during application often times it's
going to come in a tube and the product
is squeezed off and then essentially cut
with a spatula and then placed on the
nail and formed we want to use a
synthetic brush so that our brush
doesn't get stuck to the gel and then
we're going to cure it oftentimes this
gel is quick and easy to use and it
gives us the best benefits from acrylic
as well as
gel pigmented gels can be both Builders
or self-leveling gels this includes
color pigment they are more common for
building styles to be used during a two
colored method often times during a um
French tip a colored French tip it is
called a gel paint which is used for
detailed nail arts as
well other typ y of pigmented gels would
be like polish that is painted over
nails with a synthetic brush for
instance
luminary soakoff gel polish is an
alternative to a traditional nail
lacquer you cure it in a lamp and it can
be used on artificial or Natural Nails
it does have to be soaked off preferably
soaked as opposed to drilled off these
are applied EAS
and they vary in opacity and
viscosity uh gel nails have become one
of the more popular nail services in the
salon finishing gels are also known as
gloss gels they could be known as
sealing gels or shine gels they are used
to create high shine they do not require
buffering and can be used over an
acrylic monomer and polymer set of
enhanc ments you do have to cure the
finishing gel there's two types the
traditional that cures with a sticky
inhibition layer that's going to require
us to use isopropyl alcohol to clean
that inhibition layer off there's also a
tack-free gloss that is going to cure to
a high Shine without the inhibition
layer the inhibition layer is a tacky
surface that is left on the nail after
the UV gel has has cured this inhibition
layer can either be wiped off with a
limp free wipe soaked in cleaning
solution or
alcohol in an odorless acrylic set it is
going to leave us with an inhibition
layer that needs to be lightly buffed
off our service area setup or the tools
and implements needed for gel
enhancements is going to be a little
different than our service area setup
for a mon and polymer set we're going to
need our UV or our LED lamp remember to
choose the lamp designed to produce
correct amount of light to cure the gel
system that we are using we're going to
need a brush we can choose small flat or
oval nylon bristled brushes to hold and
spread the gel your uh gel brush is
going to be just a little bit smaller
than your acrylic brush we're going to
need our UV or LED gel primer or bonding
gel this is designed to improve adhesion
of the enhancement to the natural nail
plate we will add our UV or LED gels
we're going to include pigmented gels
for one color or two colored surfaces
we'll choose our nail tips or our nail
forms our nail adhesive to secure a tip
to our natural nail and then a nail
cleaner to remove any surface moisture
or tiny particles that might adhere to
our natural nail to prevent that
adhesion even though with gels we are
going to do a little bit less filing
than with the acrylic set of nails we
still will need our ad abrasive files
and buffers we want to select a medium
grit about 180 for the natural nail prep
and our fine grit 240 for smoothing and
our 350 grit or higher for finishing
that nail you are going to notice that
in a gel set of nails we don't have our
low grit to remove bulk we also want our
lintree cleansing
Wipes we want to learn how to perform
more than one type of enhancement
especially when coming to gel if I have
flat fingernails I would want to know
how to use that building gel to create
an arch and a
curve with my if my fingernails have an
arch and curve self-leveling gel might
be my best option and if they come often
with broken
enhancements I want to use glues that
use
fiberglass hard and soft gels are
removed different differ with hard gels
I cannot remove them with acetone so
I'll need to file the enhancement down
with soft gels I can remove them with
acetone light filing and pushing them
off of the
nails we do want to make sure since gel
is temperature sensitive that it is
thicker when cold and runnier when warm
the heat from a client's finger is
enough to affect the gel so cure each
finger immediately after applying our
gel we do want to avoid using too much
product to prevent it from running onto
the skin because this can cause allergic
reactions or
sensitivity gel enhancements are a great
recommendation for our guests they do
take a little bit less time especially
in filing them down however hard gel
extensions are long lasting but not
quite as strong as its acrylic
counterpart if our guest desires long
nails or they're a little bit rougher on
their
hands some of the questions that we want
to ask are will you wear your extensions
for a long period of time or is this
just for an event since gel can only be
filed off they're not the best option
for short-term extension services we
also want to ask our guests what length
do you prefer and do you often have
lifting gel Services have a strong
adhesion so if our guest snails tend to
lift easily gel might be the best option
for
them so the question might come up when
are we going to choose a gel set of
nails over an acrylic set of nails
really
anytime especially if our work
environment calls for us to have fewer
fumes or fewer smells because gel smells
less and has less fumes than acrylic
that might be a better option for us how
easy does your client like the color to
be removed in the salon do they like to
change their color often when they're
doing a set of nails or do they chip
their nails often how hard are they on
their hands that would also determine if
I'm going to use a gel polish over a
regular polish
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