How To Sand & Polish Forged Wheels - East Coast Polishing Using Renegade Products

what's up guys welcome back to the

channel tonight in the shop We've Got

Jake from E Coast polishing what's up

guys and he's going to be giving me some

polishing lessons tonight so I have

dabbled in polishing before but it has

been years and years and I'm really

excited to learn some new stuff tonight

so I think we're going to get right into

it all right so today we're going to be

training Lacy on these 26x 16 Recon jtx

Wheels we ended up going over to jtx is

main facility today and picking these up

these are going to be kind of a joint

project between me and Zach and Lacy I'm

doing the full polishing process we're

going to get Lacy trained up on

polishing so if she ever needs it she

can use it and on top of that they're

going to be powder coating these for my

semma build the fully polished Aluma

duty truck so right here we actually

have a homemade Wheel jig I seem to get

a lot of questions on this device here

this is simply just a lathe chuck head

that spins on a trailer spindle attached

to a jack with a base it's a very simple

device they can be bought off of some

webites but this one itself is actually

homemade from me and this is kind of

what I use to polish and where I make my

magic happen as a professional it just

makes the process easier and quicker for

us as you're going to see us do as we

complete the polishing process this

process is always interesting when

there's no

tire then I toss two lug nuts in here

which I didn't grab my impact for my

mistake and then I zip in the lug nuts

she'll be tied up there stay nice and

locked I tend to use the actual wheel

spacer because it lets the wheel lock on

without me screwing up there's like a

center bore in here I typically don't

like to put the teeth mark in there and

I find it a little more efficient to

just send the lug nuts holds it right

tight so probably the hardest thing of

polishing is figuring out where to start

with sanding how to start prepping and

prep is probably the biggest aspect of

polishing if your prep isn't good your

polish isn't going to be good it's no

different than what lacan experienced

with powder if your prep isn't good your

powder's not going to stick and end of

the day your product's not going to be

good so for us you kind of have to

examine it if if you have heavier

pitting really the lowest grit I

recommend for someone starting out and

learning is going to be your 320 grit

when you get into that 220 180 120 the

lowest I ever go is 120 it's really

tough to get those grits worked out of

the aluminum so something like this I

like to tell people start with 320 at

your lowest something like this though

I'm looking at this grit here and to me

I'm saying that's more of like a 320

grit already on the wheel so after

playing with my face just a little bit

because that's kind of a more intricate

area for the barrel I think we're going

to start out with 600 grit for Lacy to

start with my paper that I'm usually

using is the Hermes when I get to a 600

grit anything like 320 and below that I

use the Renegade Savage discs those seem

to work just a little bit better for me

they're a ceramic sandpaper and they

seem to have just a little bit more grit

and a kick to them when you get into the

finer grits like 600 and 800 your Hermes

disc seems to just perform a little bit

better they're a little bit softer and

the buff seems to just cut them out a

little bit easier than the ceramic discs

so with this I'm going to be using a

palm sander da I like to use one of

these foam interface pads on here you

can see on my da I typically run 3/4 in

thick foam pad these are anywhere on

Amazon Renegade makes them there's a lot

of people that sell these foam pads it's

kind of Hit or Miss whatever you want so

you can do a/ in or 3/4 I like the 3/4

they seem to have a little more Flex to

them for a barrel that way you're

getting full contact area out of your

sandpaper versus if you use just the

hard backer you're only going to be

using the edges of the paper as you're

stepping up in grits you're going to

actually start finding reflection out of

your sanding so when I'm looking at this

I'm saying this is 320 the reason being

is when I look at this with my own eye

and it's something that you're kind of

going to develop the more you polish is

the actual reflection factor out of the

sanding when I have 180 there's

virtually no reflection at all 320 I get

just the slightest bit and when I'm

putting my fingers to this wheel I'm

seeing the slightest bit of reflection

so I know this is a good 320 once Lacy

finishes running the 600 grit which

you're going to be running and just a

usually I run these at full speed

however fast your palm sander will go

and you're going to use a medium

pressure just to kind of compress that

foam a little bit to take shape to the

wheel and all you're doing is just

running small sections back and forth

very consistent all the way from your

outside edge to your Inside Edge and

we're just going to go back and forth in

these areas and eventually you're going

to start to see some kind of real nice

reflection coming from 600 and when you

get to 800 the reflection gets even

better the more reflection you have the

better you're going to cut that means

you're at a thorough good 600 or 800

either or grit you can cut from we're

going to see what our 600 does for a

reflection on this and then I'll make

the decision if we want to go all the

way to 800 or we're going to stay just

at 600 before we cut anyways we're going

to get Lacy started on this process here

for most beginners I do recommend

wearing gloves and a mask just for

safety precautions breathing in any kind

of dust is not good for you that's for

all the OSHA people in the comments we

know there's going to be some so when

you're using an orbital you're always

going to see I kind of start at this

outside edge here and I do a small

section passes of back and forth and

it's almost like buffing paint and then

I'm going to come up here and I'm going

to overlap that just a little bit and

then I might do one big section and then

I'll rotate just a little bit the

pressure is usually light enough or I

can just use kind of one hand on it but

let me show

[Music]

you so we're of orbital here you remove

this dust here a you can just feel how

smooth it is and you're starting to see

some real reflection out of that you can

see my hand that's a pretty good 600

when you get over here where I'm

guessing this is 320 you really don't

have any reflection so you're starting

to see how much better it gets like

right here was a really good one and at

least from my angle here you can kind of

see some squigglies up here they look

like little dots that's still that

previous grit down here from what I'm

seeing there's really not much for

little dots there's still some the

perfect angle you can pick them up and

the goal is just working those yeah so

that would be the part you go over again

with this section exactly so now I'd

rotate here and I'd kind of start

overlapping sometimes I'll lock a foot

in on a jig on both sides use both my

ankles on it or really anything if you

wanted to we could wrap a microfiber and

duct tape on your ankle whatever you

want jigs are tough because finding a

break with them is always hard that's

why my next jig I want I'm G try the one

hand like you did if there's anything

I'm doing absolutely wrong just tap me

on the shoulder and I'll stop

is that good so far so the only thing

I'd recommend is just slowing down a

little you slow down just a little more

pressure that way the Sandpaper can

really do the work and if you look at

that pad you're starting to see how it's

starting to build up all the silver in

the center that means that pad's just

about done when the center starts

building that's when it's not going to

cut as well so usually then I'll replace

them any of those white Hermes pads or

anything they don't seem to last as long

as the ceramic pads do that's why the

ceramic pads we love in the heavy grits

because they just never die those ones I

go through a lot of them so don't be

afraid to toss new one on there and

pressure kind of helps too with the

gloves you might not be able to get it

off there cuz the velcro likes to come

up

too

perfect pressure sometimes helps pads

last a little bit longer sometimes the

speed too will keep from caking up

sometimes too if you have like dirty

pants you can run the pad real quick on

your pants it'll discharge it you can

get a little more life out of it but

typically once they they cake up they're

pretty much done so just slow down

little more pressure nice slow back and

forth letting that sandpaper do the work

[Applause]

okay is that looking better for sure

sure yeah so you're starting to see that

reflection coming out of there out here

in the center you can really see my hand

if you look at my fingertips that's what

I look for when that reflection starting

to come you know you're getting a much

better sand every once in a while you

get these tough spots that's kind that's

from kind of leaning the sander a little

bit so it's more about just keeping that

Center pressure it is really difficult

to not get those marks typically they

don't really affect your polish too much

every once in a while you'll be cutting

and if those are there you might have to

kind of slow down to work those a little

bit extra it's really just a person

preference and something that just comes

in really time so would you say like

this section right here if I can work

those out this section should be done

probably with this grid anyways yeah so

it's just keeping a smooth hand and kind

of really being able to go with the

barrel which is difficult sometimes

people it's round so it's really easy to

just kind of tense your wrist up right

here it's really about keeping it round

the whole way through

[Music]

am I making this worse or is that normal

no that's totally normal so that's what

happens when the pad just starts getting

caked a little bit so it's starting to

get that Center you start seeing that

ring coming out it's really not bad

though but that's just kind of on the

part we haven't really sanded yet right

or yeah okay it's like this section's

looking pretty pretty good yeah now I

toss on a fresh pad and then kind of

move to like here to here probably yeah

yep okay if you're good 2 seconds I'm

just going to rip some 320 through that

just to make sure we're at 320 that way

it's just easy to do with 600 cuz that

could be 180 it's just it looks like

it's struggling to come out in some

little spots again if I started with a

polished wheel I would know exactly

where to start but someone already

prepped it so working off of someone

else's prep work can be a little iffy

but 320 you can pretty proficiently pull

180 even with 320 so 320 is really my

weapon of choice to work out anyone

sanding stuff unless maybe they were

using like 80 grit or something like

that 80 grits a grit that I just never

recommend on any type of polished

aluminum

[Music]

so poor teacher move on my end I ended

up having Lacy trying to work 180 with

600 not the greatest start to our day

but anyways we ended up ripping this

with some 320 and a DA real quick just

to get it where it needs to be so now

you can really tell the difference

between this 320 which has a decent

amount of reflection when you start

really putting your fingers on it right

there you can slightly see my fingers

reflection when we come over to

something like 600 you're starting to

see my whole finger you're starting to

really see some it's tough to see with

the Shadows polishing at night is not

always ideal in l sunlight's definitely

the best way to polish but out here in

the heat of Texas we're working with

what we got so we're going to have Lacy

come back over here and now she's going

to see how quickly and simple she can

start matching this kind of finishes

color with this 320 here usually it's a

pretty good Breeze to move through it

it's not a process that takes 2 seconds

but it shouldn't take you all day to

just do a simple 600 over 320 you

definitely have to take your time and be

thorough but it doesn't take hours with

a single grit unless you're starting

from Square One

what do I need to do better to avoid

that kind of thing so there's a couple

things you can do since we have a jig

here it's pretty easy where you could

work your whole section if you saw me

when I was sanding I would actually hold

the sander in one spot stationary I'd

work it back and forth so that there was

no there's no working on tilting your

hand with it the the biggest reasoning

for that is really just the tilt of the

hand against so to kind of prevent that

make it really easy what I did if you

watch I just I pin it in one spot also

with that to make it easier for yourself

every sand is a little different but

this one when you turn it on you can

push this button and then you can just

hold it by the head okay and it's a lot

easier to hold your angle then back here

on this handle is kind of tough I do

have another sander if this one keeps

getting you trouble I have one that's

literally just the head and it's a

button you switch that one's sometimes

easier but they're I'm not a big fan of

the DeWalt for some reason I really love

this Makita just has more power it feels

but anyways sometimes I'll hold it and

I'll just move the wheel back and forth

to my areas and then I move do a new

section and go um if that's not easy for

you it really comes down to that wrist

HT in end of the day too those aren't

it's not the end of the world that those

are there they don't really affect much

you might just slow down a little bit on

those spots to work on cutting them but

they should cut right

[Music]

out is that better or worse I think it

looks better it looks good or is that no

it looks good okay that's just the POR

pores kind of sometimes will close and

open that's one thing about Alum a lot

of people understand the pores like if

you go over an area for a long long

period of time your reflection will

start to die from the pores closing

that's why we stop at 800 grit and if

you go to 1,000 or something like that

it's actually kind of harder to pull a

shine out of aluminum with those really

high grits

[Applause]

[Music]

[Music]

I don't mind this one but that freeze

spin sucks yeah we can swap them those

makitas they like to just they'll just

Spin and then when you put it in it's

always like damn you make all these

marks and you keep going over to get rid

of them and it just gets frustrating

these dewalts generally they don't free

Spin sometimes they do it's all about

the rubber

bands I just haven't done this part

right so looking at that we started at

the valve stem so one of my tricks I

always do is I start at valve stem

that's smart so I think I still have

this section to do right exactly how is

that looking so far that looks damn good

to me I'm seeing reflection out of that

it's not super strong but it's there I

can see my pinky that's what I'm looking

for right now I see my pinky in there

that's pretty good we run our 800 that's

going to clean up a lot too we're

probably going to run 800 over this so

I'll probably switch a new pad and do

that section so just look for that valve

stem that's when your ending point is

that's like the one thing I pick on

every wheel is valve

stem does that look good to move on to

the next grit for me hell yeah reason

I'm saying that is from here I'm seeing

the reflection of all the spokes in it

320 you're not going to get a lot of

reflection but when I'm looking back

here I see some really good reflection

out of those spokes almost like it's a

decent polished wheel so to me now we're

going to pick up some 800 grip which is

going to be that brown box right there

800's going to be the same thing but

honestly you can move a little bit

faster if there's a little bit of 600

residue left it's really not that big a

deal it cuts so with that I'm almost

going to set the sander on it I'm going

to pick my valve stem there and I'm just

going to kind of really slowly spin the

wheel and just let it sit kind of on a

high Edge and let that 800 just eat I'll

go over once I see that valve stem I'll

move in just a little bit so it's still

overlapping keep spinning see that valve

stem again move in move in move in get

to my valve stem then I'll usually toss

a fresh pad on so we're starting fresh

start at the valve stem and I'll just do

the same rotation and every time I see

it I come out just a little bit to get

to your outside then after that we're

going to run our lips the lip is out at

320 and the reason I do the lip last is

because we're going to take that

interface pad off and to not ruin those

I try to not take them on and off on and

off on and off I get my Barrel done then

I'll do my lips

perfect go just a little bit slower and

a little more pressure go again oh

you're going to start with your outside

in just go outside in now with a new pad

or no yeah i' toss a new pad on outside

in just a little bit slower and just a

little more pressure

[Music]

does that look okay for the 800 perfect

that's a perfect 800 so now we're going

to be pulling that interface pad off

there I grabb that foam we're going to

pull that right off the reason I'm

pulling that interface pad off is it's

soft and it gives a lot of people don't

care me I'm super specific with these

lips these lips and these are brand new

wheel I don't want to round these lips

out and when you take a really soft pad

especially on something called rotary

sanding this is Da so we don't take a

lot of material fast rotary sanding

remove material really fast so we're

going to use a flat hard backer even

with a rotary sander da I like that nice

hard back that we can maintain the shape

and form of this flat Edge any kind of

flat metal I typically on a DA won't run

an interface pad if I was doing anything

with round I'm always using an interface

pad anything with rotary interface pad

other than this process

lips we just don't ever want to knock

down the sharpness of the edge or maybe

get in these letters and kind of deform

them so to keep that shape I like that

nice hard back but every artist that's a

polisher is a little bit different

that's just my personal preference so

with this this is out at 320 right now

we're going to pick up some of that 6001

pad you should be able to do it the

hardest thing is really holding this

wheel still and being consistent on it

for me I'll kind of do sometimes in the

top here or a side wherever it really

feels comfortable for you to hold that

that and be able to hold the wheel and

I'll just do like a little 5-in section

and then I'll move in a 5 in section

you're not going to really see

reflection out of this just cuz it's

such a small area you can see they also

sanded this top edge here on here so

we're going to run that real light just

going to put pressure here and you're

just going to run it I personally know

on these wheels where the tires are

sitting and I know that this lip isn't

going to show at all other than maybe

the top top edge of that so we are going

to polish this lip but we're not going

to go too too crazy with it I'll

probably just do a general cut on this

and maybe some finisher because that's

very hidden part if you were running a

very stretched tire and you know

someone's tire is going to be very

stretched this lip is super important to

make sure you get all the way around

front and back cuz it is seen so it's

very important to know what your

customer planning to do for the tire

setup um obviously given if you're doing

this professionally and as a business

you always want to overlap that lip but

if you personally know where your TIR is

and they're your wheels obviously do

whatever you know is going to be the

most time efficient da is actually the

palm sander she's using that's kind of

like the vibrating sand there's three

different types of sanding of orbital

which is kind of like a paint buffer and

that's where the head random orbits out

and comes back and also kind of has that

vibrating sense to it the da really has

a slight spin to it and it just vibrates

in one spot and then you have rotary

rotary is the most aggressive type of

sanding we do in polishing and that's

actually using a physical grinder that

we use that's uh variable speed or maybe

uh like the dewal Inox is the very hot

orbital tool that pretty much every

professional is kind of adapted to now

and that just spin is ahead and that's

what's going to remove material

extremely fast and for beginners I kind

of shy them away from it but the simple

reason being it's so easy to deform the

aluminum or maybe hold it down in a spot

just too long it creates a divot in the

aluminum so the da is really the safest

route for someone who doesn't do this as

a daily

practice so should I have hit like this

corner better when I had the pad on yep

so you actually just pointed out

something that as you started I realized

so you don't really need the pad on for

this edge here but this rolling Edge is

a spot that really likes to hold sand

marks this Edge and this edge here this

belly loves to hold sand marks and I see

a lot of polishers that are new they're

always struggling to get sand marks out

of there with the grinder I have a

really simple trick to get them out of

here easily and here easily but with

that sander I'm going to take that from

you real quick one thing I'll commonly

do is I'll kind of just set it in here

on this angle even if you don't have an

interface pass it's not a big deal

you're going see I kind of put quite a

bit of pressure here cuz I want that 600

to really cut this deep and really be in

there we Runner 800 is going to be a lot

lighter on it but we're going to come in

just roll it like this kick it

[Music]

on as I'm doing that you can actually

physically see the sander if you were

watching here kicking Material off and

dropping it in the wheel that's that's

how you know that 600 is really eating

on that sometimes even when I do these

edges if I have a jig it's really easy

to just stand here put pressure on it

and

just you can actually see the material

getting pulled off little bit of

dust and then I'll just come up kick it

on top nice and flat see that material

getting kicked off we know we're

removing

material and then maybe for courtesy

we'll kick it inward just a little

bit when it's spinning the way you had

it it is doing its job but sometimes

they're really light and you're skipping

that 320 when I do it you're going to

notice that it spins but it's not quite

that free spinning motion where you're

standing is a good and also where I'm

standing helps sometimes too typically I

do it sitting down but sometimes I'm in

a rush I stand up and just do it so I'm

kind of used to all of it just cuz I get

put in so many different uh yeah maybe I

need to like go more to the corner and

like put more I'll sit on the edges

sometimes I'll sit in front like I said

it's whatever feels uniform and

comfortable for you I like doing the

spinning motion when I do this just cuz

it's so easy to keep the form of it than

when I'm sitting here in one spot and

I'm just trying to work it and it's

locked in one place it's really easy to

kind of add that light little divot when

you're polishing stuff the slightest

little imperfection in the metal your

eyes are going to pick up because that

reflection just stands out better than

black paint on a truck so now after the

600 we'll do 800 if you want to try the

standing technique you can sitting on an

angle whatever feels comfortable good

with the 600 or uh I would talk some 800

just to make it easy for yourself we're

good with this 600

[Music]

[Music]

though is that okay for the back side or

should I go more yeah there's 600 into

it so as long as there's that 600 there

you can cut it the 800 really just makes

it so it cuts just that little bit

easier so here we got some different

tools right here my grinder of choice is

more professional grade of the dewalts I

use the 849x DeWalt Grinder that's my

variable speed of choice for the simple

reason it hits 3500 RPMs versus the

Makita you'll see a lot of professionals

using those only go to 32 I like to run

the handle it's a great safety

precaution my grip is usually my thumb

and my hand here whenever I'm doing the

cutting process I'm always maxed out

3500 RPMs no choice for our buff of

choice I'm a big fan of these newer ones

we just released these these are a red

and pink buff the inside is pink the

outside is red it's a blended buff this

is actually a 20 ply so it's a little

bit thicker than the average 16 ply buff

you're going to find on the market and

me I'm always for some reason running a

centerless buff I feel like it's a lot

safer these are called Safety flanges

I've gone over these in a lot of my

content videos these are meant to grip

these prongs every buff you use has

teeth these teeth are what hold the M

Fabric to the center ring which is what

attaches to the buff as a safety

precaution I like these flanges a

they're quicker to get on and off B

they're just safer and for doing this

every single day uh safety is kind of a

big deal so I like to spin these on then

I'll pop my button on the back a little

snug tight you don't have to wrap on it

after that our most important tool that

a lot of people have failed to know is

something called a rake a rake is

something simple it just has teeth mine

are pretty worn out so it's not very

sharp but it still does the job a rake

is something that we're literally just

going to put between our handle this is

the safest area and here your handle is

always going to be on the opposite side

of where the wheel spins if you were to

try raking it from this side you would

do nothing but hit yourself in the face

with the rake and get some stitches cuz

the buff will kick it off so you just

figure out what way it spins after that

you put this handle on this

side this side don't mess that one up or

it hurts so anyways the reason I'm going

to rake this buff is I've used it and if

you look at in the perfect light you're

going to start seeing a lot of silver

bang up on this thing that silver is not

good that's Caked Up Rouge it does add a

little extra cut factor I guess I would

say it but on a lot of our Buffs we want

to make sure we don't cake it also

another key thing to Buffs at Renegade

where we get all our Buffs compound

rases everything you'll notice all of

our Buffs have an arrow there's only be

one arrow on it that arrow is the top

side of the buff every buff has an end

to it and you want to make sure this end

is going to be going with your grinder

not a against it cuz if it's against it

it's a flap and it's going to cause

extra scratching that you do not want so

a proficient rake is 3500 and something

like

this then now we have a clean buff

typically I like to start out slow I

don't just Hammer the trigger variable

speed Grinders will start up soft if you

move it soft if you just Hammer the

trigger it'll just go so safety I tell

everyone when you squeeze this trigger

just go nice and light on it let that

buff start up and go

adding

Rouge this bar is called the q69 bar

from Renegade it's one of our newer bars

it's a little greasier seems to be

something that I like a little better

and I think beginners will too helps a

lot with hash and it just seems to be a

lot more user friendly than our drier

Rouge which still works incredible in

certain situations so with this I'm not

going to hold this bar on there like you

would your traditional Triple E bar

which is something you've probably used

in the past and it takes a lot to get

the job done something like this is just

kind of a quick tap we're going to start

the grinder up get full speed you're

going see me take the bar I like to do a

simple rule of 1 two three and then you

pull it off and that buff is fully

loaded it should get you about quarter

of the way through the wheel if not

halfway so we're going to go 1 two 3 1

two that's about all the Rouge we're

going to need in this

wheel now so how often do you rake is

that like pretty subjective to just what

you see on the buff typically on a cut

buff I might rake it one through a wheel

Okay the reason being is with a cut we

don't worry so much about the buff being

super fine now you like those fibers to

be open to hold the Rouge but at the

same point raking is really to keep

those fiber split up so they don't cause

extra scratching and a cut I typically

don't worry about there being a lot of

hash because that's what my coloring

stage or my midstage is for typically I

don't do a color stage I call it mid

because my bar for coloring is still my

same exact cut bar just with a much

softer buff I find this Rouge the q69

bar to be a great coloring bar and a

great cutting bar because this has great

cut to it and a great color to it really

depends how you're running a buff and

What grinder on what this bar is going

to decide to do that's another reason I

find this to be so user friendly because

it's just one less bar that you have to

remember what it does where it is and by

it's it's very simple when we're cutting

you're going to see me start on a

section we're going to call it from here

to here if you can see it in that dust

maybe about 10 10 in wide you're going

to see me come in and cut when I cut I

typically don't like to hold the buff

dead straight in the wheel that's going

to be more of like your finish pass

there's a lot of information to remember

so it does get a little tricky so with

cutting I just focus on like maybe 15°

in and you're just going to run this in

and as soon as you hit that 10 in when

my first pass I like to go back to where

I was cuz now this is warm and then

we're going to warm it up even more

these variable speeds love heat so do

these wheels you don't want to sit in

just one spot but you want to get that

heat up and then I'll come back for a

third time still not adding Rouge the

line's going to be very light but we're

going to work that heat again I'm going

to get this whole section cut and then

I'm going to drift into here and I'm

actually going to pull back on this

wheel and then forward and then back on

this wheel forward reason being is this

loves to hold sand marks as I stated

earlier same with this area so to solve

both those problems we're going to go

back and forward here before I even

start cutting all of that you're

actually going to see me run this buff

right on this Ed Edge going in and

that's going to pull this material and

really let the wheel just ride here The

Sweet Spot on a buff is going to be kind

of a diagonal from where you hold your

rake so your rake is against your handle

here so you got to kind of find that

sweet spot it's one of those things that

comes with experience when you're first

starting out you're going to kind of run

it over or you're going to be too far

under and it's going to pull up so the

biggest key to that is really keeping

this back handle low you don't want it

up if it's up like this the Buff's

always going to want to run on you if

you keep the this hand below this hand

it's going to be a lot easier to control

this buff and just run it on this area

real quick here to get that cut nicely

focus on just that and then we're going

to focus on our barrel and then last we

focus on our inside once this is heated

up if I was just going to keep running

with it I wouldn't keep going back and

over every 10 in I would run out this

section and again it's hard to describe

at all but I hit this one section here

get this warm and once once this is warm

I run my section I come right back into

my heat and then I'm going to really

just run my heat another 10 in and then

run that section there and then I might

run out here real quick get that done

and then I'm going to run back into here

again it's one of those things that like

I said earlier you kind of find your

style and what works for you is a

pattern to find and once you find your

pattern you kind of just keep moving

through the wheel and then if you find

sand marks after you do that initial cut

you look at it again and that's when you

might do a second cut a lot of people

cut wheels two maybe three times on your

cut you really in my opinion can't cut a

wheel too much coloring and finishing is

another story but cutting you really

can't cut too much that's why I'll go

over Wheels sometimes three four five

times just looking for that sand Mark

and that angle that's why another reason

jigs are nice cuz you can roll this

wheel slow look at it up top look at it

in the bottom sarks like to hide on you

especially in your cut but once you hit

it with finisher those sand marks will

pop right out anyways that was a lot of

information so let me demonstrate kind

of my section here so you can kind of

see it and then you can kind of figure

out which way do you want to go about

performing what I just did this Buff's

already loaded so you're going to see me

come in here start with this

[Music]

[Applause]

Edge so we're starting

so we're starting to see that shine come

out as soon as I start cutting here but

you're going to notice this black line

that black line is the Rouge that's on

this buff getting kicked forward as a

Polish you're going to notice you're

going to start getting black as you're

buffing it's actually that Rouge kicking

off of here there's always going to be a

little bit of excess Rouge that doesn't

stick and it's going to spray around

especially with these greasy type bars

we call them greasy because of the way

the black line moves versus a dry bar

isn't going to create much movement and

sling it's going to be really just stuck

to the buff it's it's dry versus a bar

that's really wet and you'll understand

it the more you do it but we're going to

follow that black line you never want to

jump over it too much you want just that

little quarter inch of movement pushing

that black line we're not trying to move

that line an inch and a half up every

time we're trying to just move it a

quarter inch the tighter your passes are

the better your Cuts going to be because

now you're really focusing that heat and

just that little tiny bits we always

kind of want to lock back in at a little

angle we're going to kind of hold that

angle the whole way across here very

little movements and you almost lock

your shoulders on every pass and then

you're going to free up and move up I'll

do one pass sometimes two three times

across here in each movement just to

really ensure that I'm getting that heat

especially in the beginning I'll really

follow this one to build that and then I

might do this one only two three times

and this one only twice and once you get

rolling you're rolling you don't have to

go over everything a bunch of

times it's really one of those things of

feeling it out you're going to see what

you're doing as it comes around here if

you keep looking back at it if you're

leaving Sand marks or not so you'll know

let me go a little more a little more

but that's a fairly good black line for

a greasy Rouge I'll be able to tell you

when it starts slimming out the size of

your wheel depends on how much how much

grease is going to stay how long it

lasts like a new buff I can get halfway

around this a buff that's a little more

worn out like this 9 8 in I might only

get to here before it kind of releases

it sometimes you'll get to here so

there's no like that time on when you're

going to add it it's kind of just how

are you moving it how much is the wheel

how much is the actual wheel itself

soaking up how much is your buff soaking

up how much are you losing while

spinning that's why there's no like

Direct Time on when you're going to add

it but I'm going to work the heat up

here we're going to see me do my section

then we're going to come back

[Music]

[Applause]

[Music]

[Applause]

[Music]

so this is what's going to make your

arms

tired this is where we're putting a good

amount of pressure and you can hear that

grinder so this is what's going to beat

your arms up this is tough the hardest

thing about doing Wheels is honestly

this outside edge and being able to look

from your inside cuz I always watch the

inside of the buff and then you have to

switch to looking at the outside of the

buff to make sure you're not going to

fall off of this the worst thing you can

do is fall off and hit this flange on

the edge cuz going to put a nice gouge

in it and then you have to sand it out

not the end of the world cuz you can

always sand it out it's aluminum you can

bend it you can weld it you can sand it

there's a lot of stuff you can do

welding it sucks cuz there's always

paracity no wheels are clean blank

technically but really it's just exactly

what I did there you saw me on that

angle nice and smooth now if you were

going to start I like to start just a

little bit behind here and that black

line starting to get a little thin this

wheel absorbed a lot of that Rouge so

now I would take this and I would just

give it a little tap we're just going to

go like this start smooth

tap that's all you need you're going to

come in you're going to start right back

here so you can see all that Rouge

across there and weird scratches I'll

make a nice black line

actually so I'd start right about there

the back of my Buff's here the front of

my Buff's there and we're only going to

move that line up like a quarter inch

you don't want to see that line moving

like up to here you want to see that

just a little bit little bit the tighter

your lines are the better your polish is

another part that sucks is you're on a

jig so these jigs want to spin so I use

my leg against the back here it's pretty

easy for me to do it again it's my skin

I don't know how legging is going to

work if it doesn't I can always just

hold it back for you I can just put a

hand right here I can just hold it for

you then you just work it kind of play

with it figure out what's comfortable

for yourself get in there and hold it if

you feel out of it it can go up I can

hold it

[Music]

not looking okay so far yeah okay a

little more a little more pressure

wouldn't be bad getting it to just get

that little bit of you'll hear it kind

of bog down it's like letting out the

clutch on a car just that the bog down

is good yep you want that little bit of

bog should I hit this lip a little

further first yep so now you can run

that lip up to that little angle just

remember the back of the grinder you

want a little lower right there's

perfect we're going to put a I call it

putting a pattern in it after we go all

the way around right now now you're

really just working out those deep sand

marks okay after this we're going to do

a thing where we freeze spin it we get

all the hash perfectly aligned in one

way and it's called I call it putting a

pattern in the in the aluminum you could

cut this going from here in if you

wanted to it's just about removing those

sand marks as I said before you you

really can't cut too much so now we're

just working just those sand marks out

then we'll put a pattern

[Music]

don't be afraid to add a little more

Rouge that Line's getting a little bit

light if you look at it can't quite see

like a black strip growing across it's

like a very light almost looks like a

polished look so now you can pick up

that bar make sure to lay that grinder

flat on your leg and just give it a good

little

[Music]

[Music]

I'm not doing terrible no not at all

it's all about just that pressure

keeping that pressure on those little

black spots that are binding up that's

just kind of the greasy Rouge and

honestly the humidity making that

compound bind in areas all that's going

to wipe off very easily with a little

bit of the q16 spray those areas if you

do want to remove them and kind of get

on them you can kind of slow down focus

on them put pressure the best way I've

always seen sand marks is if you roll it

up and kind of look down on the angle or

up at it is when you're going to see if

they're sand marks and if you're seeing

those little squigglies we call them

pigtails from a DA you're just going to

go over those again kind of a second cut

yeah I think like from here to here I

need to awesome so just add a little

more Rose to it and go nice and slow a

lot of pressure those black spots should

pick up or they're going to spread

behind the wheel typically they like to

kind of go behind the wheel and spread

if they're giving you a hard time and

you think they might be affecting it we

can throw a little q16 hand polish on

there and that pulls all that Rouge

right off

at this point should I get more Rouge

you think um you could definitely get

more Rouge sometimes when I get that

compound spreading it kind of will screw

up your finish so I like to take yeah

all that caking up I call it sometimes

from unre Buffs sometimes from probably

uneven pressure even maybe could be

pressure sometimes it's too much Rouge

sometimes it's the temperature and

humidity so to kind of fix that I'll

take this this is the q16 spray from

Renegade there's really no I guess

abrasives in this there are some but not

much so I like this for kind of my

cleanup stuff so something like that

I'll take this shake it up crack my

nozzle put it on a Terry just a couple

spritzes of this and then I'll take this

and I'll just clean all that excess

Rouge right off there so then you can

kind of run over that real easily it

pulls it right off no

scratching and kind of helps keep that

stuff not Caked Up on there you always

want to make sure any rag you're wiping

on a aluminum wheel is very rich with

whatever liquid you're using otherwise

you'll get a lot of scratching because

the abraser will be left up top and

there won't be any lubrication Factor

that's what a lot of the watery is is

kind of a

lubrication and then your grit will be

left on top and you'll actually scratch

up the wheel I'll do that we can run it

kind of dry got a lot of heat in there

I'm getting the heat to the rack so

that's good honestly you're cutting

beautifully there's really not much

there for sand marks a little bit inside

it's really it's just pressure I'll kind

of do a little example for you again

just to run over this and clean it up

I'm also going to rake that for you real

quick got a good rake in there take some

Rouge I'm going to get right in

[Music]

here so that is really my cutting you

can really hear how I'm just pushing

into that grinder a lot of times a hand

position will help a lot so like when

I'm doing my first one really putting a

lot of pressure I really lock my thumb

on here I'm not pushing onto the head

I'm just using my thumb kind of In This

Groove to kind of push down and make

this buff Mash down when it's not

running you see it's actually pretty

flexible just cuz it's pretty used but

once I get that hot now I'm using less

pressure I'll use the handle but I'm

still got a decent amount going into the

grinder this will kind of be up this is

pretty loose and I'm really just resting

this arm on here putting my upper body

weight into it and leaning it and that's

was going to really cut it and get it so

we have almost zero sand Marks here I

might run across that again just to work

them again but that's generally kind of

the key to cutting and it always is kind

of a couple processes you're never just

going to cut it once and be done there's

always that little bit of stuff left in

there so it's like a kind of a

multi-step thing cutting is the most

time consuming part of polishing cuz

then if you get in and like start to

finish it then you have to start all

over with exactly cutting it cutting

takes forever cutting is the process

that I'll spend an hour and a half on a

wheel just cutting and then my coloring

finishing takes me 25 30 minutes that's

very quick not even sometimes 10 minutes

kind of like the body work to good paint

yep exactly the the cut is really the

second biggest thing prep work is the

biggest thing but once you get into kind

of a niche with it you get good at it

you start learning on where a really

good prep is really good finish is

something like this like this wheel

really would take me about 35 minutes to

do it properly to cut all these spokes

nice and this Barrel which like I said

it comes with time of just learning that

heat point be to carry it and then just

keep going around and around and around

working that heat consistent it takes a

long time when we're doing kind of like

the start stop start stop cuz you're

just trying to get that heat worked

again again and again so it becomes kind

of hard to work those sand marks but if

you just stay in it keep your head down

and keep cutting it just gets easier and

easier and easier but you always got to

make sure you got that pressure into it

of that real grind so right here I'm

just going to run it one more time to

the section and get this where it needs

to be nice and rich on Rouge and then

I'm going to let you pick up again I'm

going to have a nice thing of rou right

there you're going to add a little bit

we're going to be nice and Rich when if

you put a lot of pressure into it I'd

love to see you get a section like this

of just absolute perfect of just working

it two three times get that worked out

with that lip too you did a great job

cutting this lip right here you can see

just that little bit of sand Mark sand

marks are one thing we look for they're

the little divots in the aluminum we

call them pigtails off of Da there's the

slightest bit it's really hard for a

camera to pick up and really easy to

hide on camera someone you could think

is a great polisher and those pigtails

will still be in there you'll never see

them sunlight if you get in the perfect

angle you'll find them especially after

a good finish

[Applause]

all right so that was really that's like

the hardest part of polishing to get

down is that cut that pressure that deep

rich Co just moving Rouge consistent and

getting it to be where this is now

pretty much like glass that would be

good to go through with a color or put a

pattern in it as we would do next but

obviously we got to get all the way

around the wheel to be putting a pattern

in it take this grinder you're going to

almost do what we're going to call

putting a pattern into a wheel after

powder let's say you had a little

residue you want to clean it up you

could do almost what I was doing

yesterday if you looked over here I was

kind of just putting a pattern which is

where I get a spinning and I hold the

grinder on an edge and I'm just slowly

working my line in and letting the

machine spin the wheel and then after

that I come with a color switch my hash

Direction up put another pattern in

another Direction usually about two

three times like why I don't use a color

Rouge I use my cut bar CU you can't cut

too much so using that buff to change

the direction get those little hash

lines which is Hash is the micro

scratches you'll see in the Sun or LED

light that a lot of people get kind of

scared away from they see those micro

scratch cches and they think they're

messing up but it's just that's

something that comes from a buff running

on it no matter what there's some kind

of hash from a grinder it's pretty much

virtually impossible to get zero hash so

then it's just changing those micro

scratches go another Direction then when

we finish we get him going in our last

Direction so you only are picking up

that finish hash that micro which is

where we would just spin it and that's a

much faster process than trying to pull

sand marks pulling sand marks is

actually like refinishing a wheel so

this is more of a video of how to

refinish aluminum then straight up just

polish so this is cooled now so I'm

gonna let you take this I'm gonna have

you actually rake this I tell people you

just put the rake this bottom bolt just

a little above here you're just going to

gently put it into it and let it grab

and then you're just going to really put

it in it likes to jump sometimes it'll

kick out of your hand so you just want a

good grip you're just going to put

it pushing it right in there you're

going to rip that buff right up after

that the Rouge one two three

and you're

cooking that good

perfect yeah they get

[Music]

[Music]

jumpy I'm going to say your definitely

getting it sounds better it's starting

to sound a lot more bogged than it did

at first um so now I would add more

Rouge it's about now that you got that

pressure figured now it's figuring out

the Rouge and then it's figuring out

kind of your flow you figure out your

kind of your speed with that Rouge your

pattern once you get that pressure

figured out now it'll start coming but

you just got to figure out how to keep

that pressure easily consistent which is

where like me like I kind of lock my

body in and I find that sweet spot and

let that wheel rotate where I can just

stay in that sweet spot so how are you

feeling about the actual polishing

process I know it can be really

frustrating for people to learn no I

think besides the pressure I feel like I

understand it so let's say I can't get

as much pressure as you will going over

it multiple times

basically be equivalent or not really

yes so you don't always need all the

pressure but with me I've noticed with

the pressure pressure comes the speed

and time it's going to save you a lot of

time okay now when there's a tire on it

too it almost seems easier to hold the

tire so now we have this jig locked down

we actually include that and that's one

thing that might make it easier for some

people is not having something that's

going to freeze spin it's nothing to

focus on we ended up locking this down

stationary for her so now she can focus

more in just one area and work it I've

noticed that's worked better for other

people that I have taught but yes going

over it multiple times eventually you

will get there as as long as you're rich

on Rouge that light pressure those sand

marks will come out it's just the Heat's

going to build a lot quicker with

pressure it's kind of like cutting steel

if you think about it with a cutting

wheel if you just let a cutting wheel

sit there and cut steel it's kind of

slow to go through it so I will get

there it'll just take longer yes exactly

so basically just keep going over it a

couple more cut passes yeah really if

you still have sand marks in there

finding cut passes so you got that

compound binding up again so I would

just take this a little bit of the q16

give it a light spray and we're just

going to wipe all those marks out of

there so now I'm going to release that

strap and I'm going to show you how we

work it from the outside in and or what

I would call is a putting a pattern into

the barrel so everything's kind of

uniform with hash so that when we go in

and color it it's not you're not trying

to fix lines that are here here here

here angles we're going to put one angle

in it and it's just running that buff on

an angle all the way in and then I like

to run this line quite a bit to really

make sure you have all those S marks out

of here same with here I really just

lock in a position I hold it and just

slowly drift in the wheel so now I'll

take you through that what we call

putting in a pattern it also helps if

there's any sand marks they do come out

doing that but this is what you would

more so probably practice in your shop

if uh you were to be trying to polish a

wheel generally I feel like you guys

aren't dealing with a lot of dings and

dents yeah pretty much brand new that

just have a little bit of hazing on them

sometimes exactly for me my trait of

being a polisher I'm refinishing all the

time but everyone has a different

purpose or polishing so this we'll get

through that so now we're going to come

in here and Lacy did an incredible job

at cutting this thing out she put her

senior citizen skills into this and she

was able to get us a pretty decent cut I

wiped this down with a little bit of the

q16 just to get any kind of compound

buildup off of this you don't always

need to do that and you're going to kind

of figure out the more you experiment

with it how to not get get that compound

to constantly build up on the wheel

advice for that to me really is is going

to be your pressure and then consistency

and movement learning how to really hold

that black line and having just a smooth

surface this is a smooth surface but as

we know Lacy's now 30 years old so it's

getting a little tough for her to hold

constant pressure on something with

those arm carp tunnel the carpal tunnel

is just acting up and it's not it's not

treating her well so anyways I'm going

to walk her through right now how to put

what I call putting a pattern into a

wheel the reason we we do that is when

you're going doing the back and forth

it's real easy to get some kind of like

almost striping pattern to the wheel we

don't like that on top of that too your

hash which is those micro scratches from

the buff might be a little inconsistent

in their waves so to kind of help knock

down the hash and make it so we don't

have that crazy micro scratches in the

wheel we're going to make sure all of

our cut has is uniform going in One

Direction across the barrel of the wheel

doing so we're going to hit this with a

quick rake so we have a pretty clean

buff before I do this I like to really

clean this buff out so you're going to

see me with a little extra time of

raking this buff out then I'm going to

add a little Rouge to this and then

we're going to run our line all the way

into our valve

St a lot of times on Buffs you're going

to see me I kind of go over the top and

a little bit under the side reason being

is when you're polishing you're never

going to use just the center of this

wheel on your surface sometimes you get

a little lean to it or a little lean to

it and you want those edges to have that

little Fray to them too as well that way

they're kind of picking up the Rouge and

you don't realize how much this buff

really soaks up Rouge even after I if I

started cutting right now I'm going to

get a slight black line because that

compound is in this buff so we're going

to add a little

BT now this is the hardest part without

a tire is letting it Glide and not

burning the skin off of your leg so I'm

going to try to get my shorts on this

I'm going to let this wheel spin and I'm

going to start on on this outside edge

here I'm going to have quite a bit of

pressure into it not a ton and it's this

is probably what I say the hardest part

is to get all these sand marks and keep

pressure on this outside edge here and

not have the buff fall or go in you seem

to be really good at not letting the

buff go over the edge you were really

slick and smooth it keeping it right

inside there on the edge and then back

in to the edge and back in you never

really dropped off so that's a huge

positive note to go on most people when

they start are constantly falling off it

they're slipping hitting the asphalt and

yeah it's not fun well you did a really

good job with that so I'd be proud of

that so we're going to give it a slight

spin I'm going to start

[Applause]

it add a little more ruse we want a

black line so

[Applause]

sometimes sometimes to add ruse when

it's spinning on a jig which a jig is

Advanced and this is where it gets a

little tricky I have this trigger locked

and I hold the body of the grinder you

want to watch your hands you don't want

to put them in the buff you hold the

body I like to kind of feel these

brushes with my thumb this is where the

brushes are on the grinder to clean it

those are the first thing you take apart

in your cleaning process don't ever mess

that up I do all the time hold it there

and I kind of put the handle here and I

don't there's no pressure in it it's

going to keep the wheel spinning and I

put my bar on in front and I just tap it

and I let it get a nice line all the way

around it is a little Advanced so if you

don't feel comfortable having this

running and holding it you don't feel

like you can keep it stable don't worry

about it you can add it outside kind of

get a line maybe add a little more get

your line and then move on from there

this is one that like even I sometimes

I'm like oh I don't want to drop that

thing if you drop it it's going to take

off first thing you do if you ever drop

a grinder is you pull the plug don't go

for the grinder just pull the plug it's

fine

[Music]

black Line's

complete now we're going to put some

pressure into

[Applause]

it as you can see I'm just slowly moving

in slowly little by little no big jumps

it's very

[Music]

[Applause]

[Music]

slow so that's how we get uniform hash

now if you get your camera on the

perfect angle here with the light from

back here you're actually might be able

to pick it up as I spin this you can see

all these little micro scratches

I don't know if the camera picks it up

well it's very hard to these micro

scratches are now all going in

everything's uniform and it's the exact

same line all the way into that Barrel

so now it's a lot easier for us to

remove that hash the number one reason I

use my same cut bar and I Love This Bar

this bar has a lot of coloring in it but

it also Cuts great so now I can run my

color buff which is going to be a 40 ply

flannel which is a pretty soft buff but

when you put the right Rouge on lot of

pressure it'll cut too just cuts very

slow it's very soft you'll see it's a

big fluffy pad with that one I'm now

going to start in here with it I'm going

to add all my Rouge get this nice and

black and you're going to see I'm going

to change my angle out and now I'm going

to be making sure that I don't see

anything going this way it's just coming

out and it's a very soft buff so it's

not going to be this deep hash this is

what I would consider a deep hash like

in the sunlight natural light you would

see this from a mile away look at this

wheel and go wo who did that like not

good but with that buff it's going to be

a lot lighter so then our finish pad

which is a very soft soft buff we're

going to focus with that when I'm just

pulling it out and you're going to

notice with a finish buff I don't use a

lot of rouge which is very different a

lot of polishers are big on putting a

lot of Rouge on there and blackening it

up but that finish bar Burns very easy

and when you burn a wheel you're never

going to burn the aluminum you're going

to burn the compound bar will turn brown

or white and that's what I call a

compound burn which is very easy to

remove using acid or just a quick sand

obviously as you see with

sanding it's tough to pull sand marks

all right so here same grinder 849x I

got a whole bunch of these I love these

now we're going to be going into our

color or our midstage process this is

going to be a 40 ply flannel from

Renegade you can use a lot of different

Buffs to do your color or midstage like

a ubm a purple any kind of softer buff

than a red orange or a yellow is great

for coloring in my opinion again

polishing all comes down to opinions and

what works for you for me these 40 Plies

I think are incredible for my coloring

stage some guys like to finish with

these I personally like coloring with

these every once in a while I'll get a

finish out of these these to attach them

I usually run an extension this is a

3-in extension with a grinder nut on it

that's how you attach these to a grinder

you could get it on the shaft here but

when it's on a shaft it tends to rub the

grinder a lot and it'll actually get

your fingers when your fingers are on

here so I like it a little farther away

and it does make leverage with pressure

a little bit harder but there's not a

lot of pressure involved in this the

hardest thing with these Buffs is raking

them these love to grab a rake and go

when it's far from the handle it's

actually a little difficult to do it I

like to run these around 2200 but for

anyone starting out polishing if you're

ever going to rake a finish buff or even

a 40 ply I recommend you just turn your

grinder down a little bit so it's easier

for you 1,400 generally seems to be a

good RPM to make it so you're not going

to hurt your wrist or maybe hurt your

fingers fingers are a big thing with

these rakes to watch I I typically hold

the rake by the edges here really tight

for anyone starting out I recommend you

hold it by the end until you get really

comfortable with the pressures and how

it pulls so I'm going to do it by the

end for a finish buff I don't turn it on

I start here and I just bump this

trigger get it in just hold it it looks

very easy but it does grab very quick

that's why we turn the RPMs

down when you get into your coloring

Buffs and your finish Buffs it's very

important to keep them Rak you don't

want any compound binding up in here

because now we're trying to minimize the

hash we're not looking to bring out any

kind of sand marks or take those out the

sand marks are completely out of this

wheel we're just looking to change the

hash we're looking to make it very very

little hash and maybe a little bit of

the clarity is going to pop a little bit

more to this wheel but with this bar our

Clarity is really put into it with our

cut which is not like a lot of other

bars if you were to use something dry

like our t121 Triple E or any Triple E

Base Bar you're not going to get a lot

of pop out of your cut you get your pop

from your color that's why I call this a

midstage versus color we're going to

take our bar add a little bit on the

buff now we have a nice layer of polish

on

here I'm going to actually coat the

wheel before I do this I do just a

little bit of the q16 spray to help with

the coloring process also lubrication

getting the hash out another big benefit

to doing this is it's very easy to see

where you are this Buff's not going to

put out that real thick black line that

we would get from our cutting stage this

is going to be kind of a really thin

black line that's sometimes hard to keep

track of even as a professional it's

very easy to lose track of where you

were so now we're going to get this buff

spinning in here bump this back up to

about 2400 2200 2600 it's kind of a

range wherever you feel comfortable I'm

running at 24 we're going to turn this

on I'm going to bump this wheel we're

going to get spinning and then I'm going

to add a little bit of Rion here once

around then you're going to see me

working out I turn this grinder on a

little angle I like my hands on the head

again because if my hands bump this

wheel they're not necessarily going to

scratch it if you have this rubber and

plastic grinding against the wheel

you're going to be adding scratches so I

put my hand below this we let the

grinder just do the work very very slow

and you try to keep the wheel spinning

as consistent as possible if you have a

[Music]

jig when we get to our Outer Edge you

always want to straighten out the buff

the softer the buff is the more it's

going to want to grab and run on you

when the harder the buff is it doesn't

want to grab as bad but when they're

soft they catch anything they can and

they go so now when I'm looking at this

wheel I'm looking for anything that

might be Xing if there's an X I simply

know I just got to run from the inside

out again and then that's just pulling

out more hash and getting it perfect

right now I'm looking at this and

honestly I'm not seeing anything going

in so I know I did it a perfect color

stage or midstage generally you can get

it in one shot sometimes two as you can

see it's really not a lot of pressure

it's really just consistent letting it

spin having the buff making contact

enough Rouge the spray and it just works

like art this is again a little Advanced

for people to learn a lot of people will

start out just running straight but if

you're looking for that perfect polish

Lacy the old lady is getting the

complete in depth to Perfection polish

right now senior citizen

course this is how you get it perfect in

my opinion all right so for our final

step and our final finish on polishing I

definitely do it a little different than

some guys so everyone has an opinion on

it again this is how I like to do it for

my best results again I take this q16

spray all I'm going to do is literally

open it and then I'm just going to

Spritz it all over the

wheel after that I'm going to let that

sit there I'm going to take my finish

buff which is a double stack cotton

flannel from Renegade on their double

stack flanges this is my favorite finish

I'll turn this down again 1,400 for the

beginners if you're Advanced you know

how to hold the rake and everything you

can rake it at full speed but I'll rake

it at400 some little silver tips in here

we want to break this buff up make sure

it's nice and

fluffy sometimes for some people they

use sandpaper sometimes they use Stones

me I'm okay with my rakes cuz they're

very worn out here I'll turn this back

up around 2,000 RPMs my new finish bar

of choice is this blue from Renegade

this is not the lighter blue that we use

on stainless this is a much darker blue

it's like a blueberry bar this we're

going to take it since it's so wide from

our inside move it all the way to the

out and I'm not going to use a lot

you're notice it's very quick I don't

like using a lot of the bar on it I like

using more of the spray and that's what

I use for my finish this is just that

little bit of grit to help get that hash

where we need it so now we're going to

take

it it's a very quick process you can see

that tint of blue on the buff you don't

want a caked blue buff you want a tint

of your color across your wheel here so

now very similar to my coloring process

you're going to see me put a spin on

this wheel instead of me tilting the

buff in an angle like we did cutting or

an angle like we did on our color I'm

just going to hold this straight I'm not

going to have any pressure applied here

I'm just going to almost be holding the

weight of the grinder letting the buff

put the pattern into the wheel it's just

enough where this buff is going to press

just enough to rub the wheel we're not

going for any kind of anything other

than straightening out those micro

scratches and getting a perfect line of

hash that's actually going to be

vertical in the wheel I feel like that's

the hardest hash pattern to pick up with

the eye if that makes any sense being a

polisher is really it's kind of an art

of hiding the hash figuring out how to

do it like when it comes to Flat panels

and wheels it's about trying to make it

so it's diminished enough where you're

not going to pick it up the second you

look at a wheel the way I found best is

vertical on this wheel some guys you'll

see do angles out some angle in

personally I like the straight so we're

going to give it a good Spin and get

this started

[Music]

so that is how we get what I would call

a professional polish on a wheel with

the most minimal hash we could possibly

get that's your simple wheel polish that

honestly any customer is going to be

absolutely thrilled with there's a lot

of clarity in that wheel no sand marks

minimal hash and honestly a gorgeous

shine and now miss Lacy Blair can polish

every customer's wheels that come to her

shop I don't know about that this was

really fun I'm ready to go back to

powder coating tomorrow

though you don't think this is a trade

for you you don't think you would enjoy

this every day not every day no all

right y'all if you like this video go

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