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Jeremy Wade's Mighty Rivers - Full Episode 2 - The Danube

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FULL TRANSCRIPT

0:01

But Danube has an unusual claim to fame.

0:05

Welling up in Germany's Black Forest, it

0:08

runs east along the edge of the Austrian

0:10

Alps, swings south across the Great

0:13

Plains of Hungary, then cuts through a

0:16

dramatic gorge to enter its final phase.

0:20

And by the time it emerges from Romania

0:22

to empty into the Black Sea, it has

0:24

flowed through 10 countries, [music]

0:27

which makes it the world's most

0:29

international river. But delving into

0:32

recent reports, I'm surprised to see

0:34

that the Danube is also ranked as one of

0:36

the world's most endangered rivers. Now,

0:39

Europe has stringent environmental laws.

0:42

So to find this of all rivers on an at

0:45

[music] risk list, that really is quite

0:46

disturbing.

0:48

Go online and the Danube is sold as a

0:51

river of romantic cities and picture

0:53

postcard scenery. But it's time to look

0:56

beyond the castles and cruises and find

1:00

out what's really going on with this

1:02

mighty river.

1:11

I'm starting my investigation in Romania

1:14

at the less glamorous end of the river.

1:18

This is the mouth of the Danube, what

1:20

people here know as Mile Zero. Behind me

1:24

is the Black Sea. And over there, if you

1:26

keep following this shipping channel, is

1:29

a vast delta.

1:33

The Danube [music] Delta is one of the

1:34

largest wetlands on Earth.

1:37

It's a vital [music] refuge for

1:39

endangered wildlife.

1:43

>> [music]

1:44

>> Birds flock here in their millions,

1:49

and its waters are reportedly home to 84

1:52

species of fish.

1:54

If there's one part of this river that

1:56

[music] ought to be in good shape, it's

1:59

here in the delta.

2:05

St. George is supposedly the main

2:07

fishing hub for the area,

2:10

but it feels completely dead.

2:18

This place was built with money from

2:21

fishing and in its heyday

2:24

guess it would have been thronging with

2:25

people, but now pretty much a ghost

2:28

town.

2:30

Something here doesn't add up. A healthy

2:34

river should be able to support a

2:35

thriving fishery.

2:40

>> Hello. Salute. Salute.

2:43

>> Niko.

2:44

>> They got Jeremy.

2:46

>> Are you Are you fishing now?

2:47

>> Yes.

2:48

>> Okay.

2:53

>> Nico tells me that until recently people

2:56

here used to hunt a huge and very

2:58

lucrative fish.

3:00

Beluga sturgeon can grow as big as a

3:03

great white shark and live for over a

3:06

hundred years.

3:10

For millennia, they've been caught for

3:12

their meat.

3:14

What makes this fish so valuable,

3:16

though, are its eggs,

3:20

better known as beluga caviar.

3:25

Today, people are willing to pay more

3:27

than $4,000 [music] a pound for this

3:30

ultimate luxury.

3:33

But beluga sturgeon have become so rare

3:36

that it's now illegal to catch them. So,

3:39

is this why there's there's not many

3:41

fishermen here today?

3:46

>> Because of the sturgeon ban, a lot of

3:48

people just left. Since the ban, he's

3:50

had to adapt. And so what he does now,

3:52

rather than fishing off the river mouth,

3:54

he's fishing for other species.

3:58

Nico agrees to let me tag along.

4:03

As well as seeing what's in his catch, I

4:05

want to find out what the story is with

4:07

the Danube's few remaining beluga

4:10

sturgeon.

4:13

We're very close to the bank because out

4:15

in the middle there's very strong

4:16

current. The fish tend to hug the bank.

4:19

They don't have to expend so much energy

4:21

to hold their place in the currents.

4:25

>> No. Okay.

4:30

>> Okay. That's good.

4:32

>> Morning. I'll be back.

4:35

>> We leave the traps to do their work and

4:38

travel deeper into the delta.

4:44

Fishing is a bit like taking a blood

4:46

sample. If you know what to look for, it

4:49

can tell you a lot about a river's state

4:51

of health.

4:53

>> I've seen lots of um small fish swimming

4:56

around, which is a good sign. It shows

4:59

that there's productivity. There's

5:01

certainly the basis of a good food

5:04

pyramid here.

5:08

I'm hoping there's going to be bigger

5:10

fish feeding on those small ones.

5:15

Despite the promising signs, I'm

5:18

struggling to get a bite.

5:29

Yes, that's a fish. Here we go. This is

5:32

a pike. Very recognizable.

5:39

Big toothy mouth there. Quite big eyes

5:42

as well. They're built for acceleration.

5:45

The dorsal fin instead of being in the

5:47

middle of the back, it's way down by the

5:50

tail here. So that gives them that quick

5:52

burst of speed. But as pike go, this one

5:56

is tiny.

5:58

As to the health of the river, the jury

6:00

is still out.

6:03

How you doing?

6:07

At least I've done enough to establish

6:09

my fishing credentials with Nico. He's

6:12

invited me back to his fishing camp.

6:24

>> Crap.

6:25

>> This used to include sturgeon. Now it's

6:28

just other species they can find. And

6:30

this is carp. I can see its eye looking

6:32

out at me as it bubbles away in there.

6:38

Good.

6:44

The boiled fish head is better than it

6:46

looks. My real interest, however, is in

6:50

beluga sturgeon.

6:51

>> What was the the biggest one that you

6:53

saw or heard about?

7:02

>> Right. 360 kilos. Uh that is

7:06

I believe that's just a little short of

7:08

£800.

7:09

He says it was getting off the size of

7:10

the boat. So I mean this we're talking

7:13

sort of 15 foot fish.

7:21

>> So you're saying a fish that that size

7:23

now if it was legal you wouldn't have to

7:25

work for a year.

7:28

Naturally hardup fisherman like Nico are

7:31

hoping that the sturgeon will make a

7:32

[music] comeback so that the ban can be

7:35

lifted.

7:36

He says, "When we could fish for [music]

7:38

sturgeon, we used to work and we got

7:40

results. Now we work harder [music]

7:43

but with less results."

7:47

As if to underline his point, Niko digs

7:50

out an old photograph of another fish.

7:54

And I can hardly believe my eyes. That

7:57

is an extraordinary picture. This is

8:00

absolutely huge. It's a Wales catfish.

8:06

Niko says he caught the fish about 15

8:08

years ago with a rod and line. This

8:11

weighed well clear of 250 lbs and it's

8:15

about one and a half times the length of

8:17

him. That is one of the biggest Wells

8:19

catfish that I've heard about and

8:21

certainly seen a picture of.

8:25

I've no idea if giant catfish are still

8:28

out here.

8:29

Maybe our nets will spring [music] a

8:31

surprise.

8:39

You got it.

8:40

>> Da.

8:41

>> Nothing. Just a stick.

8:50

>> Nothing.

8:50

>> Nothing. Nothing.

8:53

>> The fishing [music] season has only just

8:56

opened.

8:58

There should be plenty to catch.

9:01

>> Nothing in this one.

9:03

The empty nets are a real surprise to

9:06

me,

9:08

>> but not to Nico.

9:11

>> Although this is a good spot, [music] he

9:13

says year after year, the the number of

9:15

fish is just going down, going down,

9:16

down, down.

9:20

>> Nikico says the underlying problem is

9:22

the decline of the beluga sturgeon.

9:26

If you stop people fishing for the

9:27

beluga sturgeon, they're bound to then

9:30

turn to other fish to make a living

9:32

[music] and that's going to increase

9:33

pressure and it's going to cause a

9:35

decline in those other species. And that

9:37

is what's happened [music] and that is

9:39

what is continuing to happen.

9:42

It all sort of makes sense

9:45

to the casual observer. The Danube Delta

9:48

looks [music] healthy.

9:51

Below the surface though, the picture

9:54

isn't so rosy.

9:56

What puzzles me is why after more than

9:59

10 years of protection, beluga sturgeon

10:02

are not turning up in [music] bigger

10:03

numbers.

10:08

To find out what's going on, I've pulled

10:10

some strings.

10:12

One of the few people in Romania allowed

10:14

to catch sturgeon is fish biologist Dr.

10:17

Radu Suchu. I'm rather I'm very

10:20

>> and I'm lucky to be invited to join him.

10:22

>> This is the best fishing ground for

10:25

sturgeon in the whole venue.

10:29

>> For the last 18 years, Radu [music] has

10:32

been keeping tabs on sturgeon numbers.

10:35

>> You see how it works? Sides of the net.

10:38

You see?

10:38

>> Yeah. I see that. Yeah.

10:39

>> There are two lines. There's a line with

10:41

floats. There's a line with lead

10:43

weights. The float line, if you look,

10:45

it's not on the surface. Basically, this

10:47

operates right down on the bottom.

10:49

[music] So, where the boy is, that's

10:51

about 35 ft of water. The net is about

10:54

6t [music] deep, but it's the 6T on the

10:57

bottom of the water. Our deep set

11:00

[music] net is well placed to catch

11:02

sturgeon, which typically move along the

11:05

river bed.

11:06

>> You are actually the [music] best

11:07

assistant I've ever had.

11:09

>> Well, there we go. [laughter]

11:13

Adult sturgeon swim up river to lay

11:16

their eggs. Our aim today is to

11:19

intercept baby sturgeon as they make

11:21

their way down river to the sea.

11:24

Sturgeon are covered with these spiky

11:26

scoots. So they're very vulnerable to to

11:28

nets. All they got to do is touch it and

11:30

and move and they're wrapped up.

11:33

>> Radu can use the number of babies

11:34

[music] we catch to calculate if the

11:36

overall sturgeon population is

11:38

rebounding or still shrinking.

11:41

We're pulling in now.

11:45

>> Look at this one.

11:47

>> Native crayfish here. That's proof that

11:49

we were on the bottom. These tend

11:50

[music] not to swim by the surface.

11:54

>> Oh, we have a fish.

11:55

>> This is a thing called a petra. We sort

11:57

of mean stone. It lives down on one of

11:58

the rocks. I've not seen these before.

12:01

I think we're getting close to the end

12:03

here.

12:04

>> Yeah.

12:05

>> This is [music] a saber fish. Probably

12:07

got caught while we were pulling the net

12:09

up. That is a nice fish.

12:11

>> But no sturgeon.

12:12

>> Nope.

12:14

>> I'm a little bit disappointed. I was

12:15

hoping I would see a sturgeon of some

12:16

description.

12:19

>> Despite my disappointment, Radu says his

12:21

long-term records indicate a fragile

12:24

recovery.

12:25

>> It is very difficult because of the high

12:28

value of the fish. You know, this is the

12:29

most valuable animal on the planet. They

12:32

fished like hell. Before we had numbers

12:35

like 8 12 in one year this number has

12:41

tripled.

12:42

>> So it sounds like the this fishing ban

12:46

is starting to have an effect. I mean

12:48

that seems fairly clear from your

12:49

numbers.

12:49

>> It will take time a bit longer than we

12:51

thought in the beginning but it will

12:53

have an effect.

12:56

[music] However, with a fish as insanely

12:58

profitable as beluga sturgeon, [music]

13:01

temptation lingers.

13:04

Radu also monitors adult fish using

13:07

satellite tags. And he says he's got

13:10

something interesting to show me.

13:13

This is a normal track of an adult

13:16

beluga male.

13:18

It was coming out of the delta and

13:20

heading towards this wintering site in

13:23

the Bay of Odessa in Ukrainian waters.

13:26

[music]

13:27

A track.

13:28

>> Next is a very different track picked up

13:31

from another of his tagged sturgeon.

13:34

>> His record is showing that it was

13:36

popping up here after being immo for 2

13:40

days. [music]

13:42

Suddenly it came to the surface from 62

13:44

m to 0 m.

13:46

>> So it's like 200 ft.

13:47

>> Yeah. And then it moved almost straight

13:50

to the bank to this village Novo

13:52

Fedorfka and it ended up in Saki at the

13:55

railroad station. So it was taking

13:58

[music] a train.

14:00

>> Clearly this unlucky sturgeon ended up

14:02

in the wrong hands.

14:05

>> That's very simple. It's poaching.

14:11

>> Thwarting the sturgeon poachers is the

14:13

job of Romania's Delta Police.

14:16

And with a bit of help from Radu, I've

14:18

taught my way onto their next patrol.

14:21

>> Will be five boats. All the all the

14:23

boats will be in a line 300 m apart.

14:31

>> Are you armed when you do this?

14:32

>> Yes. Just in case we run in some

14:34

unforeseen event or someone very

14:37

aggressive.

14:44

The next day, we set out to find

14:46

poachers at the mouth of [music] the

14:47

river.

14:50

It's a huge area to search. And to make

14:53

things harder, the poachers submerge

14:55

their nets out of sight.

15:05

Our best hope of finding these death

15:07

traps is to spread out.

15:10

>> [music]

15:12

>> So, this is a bit like trolling. This is

15:15

what I do occasionally. I'm pulling a

15:16

lure behind the boat here. It's just a

15:19

weight with some crude hooks attached to

15:22

it. And if there's any nets down there,

15:25

that's going to snag onto it.

15:34

>> They found something.

15:37

It looks like a snagged animal.

15:50

>> Sadly, [music] this harbor porpus was

15:53

unable to free itself. His eyes have

15:56

been pecked out. That's the first thing

15:57

that seagulls are going to go for.

16:04

This is what we didn't want to see.

16:07

There's skin missing from the tail. And

16:08

that would have been while it was still

16:09

alive, just trying to get out of the

16:11

net.

16:14

>> And there's another grizzly surprise.

16:17

>> This is dead sturgeon.

16:20

They take so long to to reach maturity

16:23

that they are just so vulnerable. Uh you

16:26

know, you kill them off like this and

16:27

the [music] population just goes totally

16:28

downhill.

16:33

Within minutes, the body count has

16:36

tripled.

16:38

There are three different species of

16:40

sturgeon here. All illegal to catch and

16:44

all listed as vulnerable or endangered.

16:48

This is a beluga that's been

16:51

cut off in its prime. This is the

16:52

world's biggest sturgeon, and this one

16:54

met a very untimely end.

16:58

This young fish could have lived well

17:00

into the next century and produced many

17:04

young.

17:06

When a species is so close to

17:08

extinction, every individual is

17:10

precious. I don't think I want to have

17:12

another day's fishing like this. I think

17:14

it's it's important to see it once, but

17:17

um

17:22

yeah, not a not a very not a very happy

17:25

days fishing.

17:33

That's another fish. Another sturgeon.

17:37

This one's alive. This one is alive.

17:42

[music] Fantastic.

17:45

I'm just putting some gloves on because

17:47

the scoots are quite sharp. This has

17:50

been cut up quite a bit by the net, but

17:52

um that's only a flesh wound. But there

17:54

we go. It's alive and it's going back in

17:56

the water away from the net.

18:00

That feels very [music] satisfying. That

18:02

would have been a dead sturgeon not uh

18:05

very far into the future. So we have we

18:08

have in our own small way um changed the

18:12

course of history.

18:15

[music]

18:16

In the past year alone, the Delta police

18:19

have fished out over 10 miles of illegal

18:21

nets and set free more than a 100

18:24

entangled [music]

18:25

sturgeon.

18:28

The root of the problem, I [music]

18:30

suspect, is greed.

18:34

If caviar suddenly had no value, if

18:36

people weren't prepared to pay lots of

18:38

money for it, do you think the problem

18:39

would go away and the sturgeon would

18:40

recover?

18:42

>> I'm not sure if it it would go away

18:44

100%. But at least 90% you still have

18:47

guys hunting them for the trail. But as

18:49

long as the value is down, they wouldn't

18:52

risk it.

18:55

>> At this less wealthy end of the Danube,

18:57

my first impressions were of decline.

19:00

Decline in its fish.

19:02

>> Nothing.

19:02

>> Nothing.

19:03

>> And because of this decline in its

19:05

fishing communities,

19:07

but mixing with the people who live here

19:10

and digging a little deeper,

19:11

>> it is a flagship species. I believe that

19:13

the beluga sturgeon could come back.

19:17

>> This is going to swim off quite nicely.

19:22

>> There is something about being beside

19:24

water that contains

19:27

these armored leviathans which is a

19:29

world of difference from being beside

19:31

water that is basically a lifeless

19:33

drain. What I'm starting to see is there

19:36

are people who passionately believe that

19:39

a living river is something worth

19:42

fighting for.

19:48

Leaving the delta, I'm heading in land.

19:53

With its historic cities and picturesque

19:55

countryside, the middle reaches of this

19:58

mighty river are well known to

20:00

sightseers.

20:04

Much less well-known, but crucial for my

20:06

investigation is another of the Danube's

20:09

great fish, an elusive creature known as

20:12

the hookan.

20:17

Now, this is a landlocked relative of

20:20

the salmon, and it grows to the size of

20:21

a man. But since World War II, this fish

20:25

has become little more than a memory.

20:27

It's like a ghost fish. I'm wondering

20:29

what this says about the river and

20:32

whether I have any chance at all of

20:35

seeing this fish.

20:38

I'm eager to talk to anyone who might

20:40

remember the hooken,

20:43

but apart from the [music] occasional

20:44

commercial barge, this stretch of the

20:47

Danube is strangely empty.

20:52

Hoping to find signs of life, I decide

20:54

to check out the backwaters.

21:04

The distant ring of an axe [music] draws

21:07

me on.

21:18

>> See you.

21:19

>> Uh Mas

21:21

>> can

21:24

>> it's very solid. Are are you a

21:26

fisherman? Are you a fisherman?

21:36

>> Bit by bit, I start to piece things

21:39

together. It seems that Yanosh and his

21:42

family belong to a tribe of wood carving

21:44

gypsies.

21:53

He says he used to carve boats for

21:55

fishermen who paid him with the fish

21:57

they caught from the Danube.

22:03

>> I'm straining to pick out one fish in

22:06

particular.

22:08

But it goes unmentioned.

22:14

>> I think I recognize most of those fish,

22:16

but have you ever seen a hooken?

22:22

really

22:24

>> Yanosh says that when he was a boy he

22:26

remembers seeing large

22:27

>> sturgeon.

22:29

>> But as for the hooken

22:31

>> he's not sure.

22:34

>> He says hooken. They just seem to be

22:36

gone. But don't ask me. I don't know

22:37

about these things. Ask a fisherman.

22:41

>> Before I can resume my search, Yanosh

22:43

invites me to try out what he says is

22:45

his last ever canoe.

22:48

Where do I sit?

22:51

>> Here.

22:52

>> These days, no one wants a handcarved

22:55

boat.

22:57

>> This one is destined [music] for a

22:59

museum.

23:01

>> It's very nice. It's very good.

23:10

>> Okay. Okay.

23:14

>> I like it. It's stable. I'll take it.

23:17

I'll take it. How much?

23:28

[laughter]

23:30

>> With the hard work done,

23:34

>> it's time for a glass of gypsy

23:36

moonshine.

23:42

[music]

23:43

To make room for farms and towns, the

23:45

Danub's backwaters have almost all been

23:48

drained.

23:49

But I've heard about some interesting

23:51

ponds [music] just off the river.

23:54

During World War II, dozens of American

23:57

bombs intended for a Nazi airfield

24:00

landed harmlessly off target with

24:03

intriguing results. This is a wartime

24:07

bomb crater. It's a window into the

24:11

groundwater which continues from here

24:13

underneath my feet all the way to what

24:16

we normally think of as the river over

24:18

there across this flat open plane. But

24:23

the [music] real significance of all

24:24

these bomb craters is that they're now a

24:26

lifeline for many [music] of the plants

24:28

and animals that once thrived in the

24:31

Danub's marshy backwaters.

24:34

So this is actually a refuge.

24:39

Bombs are normally destructive, but here

24:43

they've created [music] something quite

24:44

important.

24:52

Back on the main river, my search for

24:54

the Danub's missing predator is taking

24:56

me into more densely populated [music]

24:58

country.

25:00

Hooken are thought to have abandoned

25:02

many of their old haunts because of

25:03

pollution.

25:05

But so far at least, the water seems

25:07

remarkably clean.

25:13

>> When you're in a city, the sounds that

25:16

you hear tend to be all man-made.

25:18

There's voices everywhere. There's

25:20

traffic.

25:21

But if you come out here, you can

25:23

actually hear the voice of the river.

25:24

And looking down, I'm very much aware of

25:27

the flow of the river, the sheer volume

25:30

of water that's passing every moment.

25:33

With so much flow, big rivers have an

25:36

impressive capacity to clean themselves.

25:40

This and the fact that there's no heavy

25:42

industry around here should be good news

25:45

for the hooken.

25:49

But has anyone here even heard of this

25:51

fish?

25:52

>> Hello.

25:53

>> Oh, hi.

25:54

>> This is a good spot here.

25:55

>> Yeah, it's actually a famous spot.

25:57

Budapest city center is one of the best

25:59

spots in Hungary. Yeah.

26:01

>> It turns out that Lazlo has been fishing

26:03

here since he was a boy,

26:05

>> and he says there's plenty to catch.

26:07

>> Looks like he's even got something.

26:09

>> Do you think he'd show us?

26:11

>> Yes, of course.

26:13

>> What's the Hungarian name?

26:15

>> In Hungarian English dictionaries, they

26:17

are called nose carp because of that.

26:21

[music]

26:22

>> So the water here is clean.

26:24

>> Yeah, normally it's transparent.

26:27

Pollution level is very low. No, there

26:30

are more predators here.

26:33

>> Do you ever see the hookum here? Have

26:35

you ever seen that?

26:36

>> Oh, the mysterious fish. Sometimes you

26:39

hear a gossip that somebody caught one

26:42

over there and then there is another

26:44

gossip that someone caught one over

26:46

there. I have even traveled to distant

26:48

countries to try to catch it, but uh

26:50

I've never seen it in Budapest. It will

26:52

be my dream.

26:54

[music]

26:55

With clean water and no shortage of

26:57

prey, this stretch of the Danube ticks

27:00

two big boxes for the hooken.

27:03

Yet, the only place it lives is in

27:05

people's dreams.

27:10

What its absence is telling me about the

27:12

river is still unclear.

27:15

One thing I'm getting used to, though,

27:16

is the near constant procession of

27:18

floating juggernauts.

27:24

There's some people doing something in

27:25

the bank here. We're just going to uh

27:29

check it out.

27:40

>> Hello.

27:41

>> How do you um

27:49

>> I've seen similar kind of thing in the

27:50

animals. This is This is gold panning.

27:57

>> Imm tells me he started panning on

28:00

weekends as a way to relax,

28:03

>> but it seems he now has a more romantic

28:05

objective. [music]

28:07

What he's trying to do at the moment is

28:08

make a ring for his girlfriend. He

28:10

started on that project about 6 months

28:12

ago. He reckons another 6 months, so a

28:15

year in total uh to make this uh this

28:18

ring. Does she does she know that you're

28:20

doing this?

28:22

So,

28:23

>> right. So, she she doesn't know. So,

28:25

what is where does she think you're

28:26

going in all your all your spare time?

28:33

>> She knows that I'm a a gold panner, but

28:35

sometimes I also tell her, "I'm going to

28:37

see my parents or or something else."

28:38

There's a little bit of subtuge going

28:40

on.

28:42

[music]

28:44

At first glance, Imray's search for gold

28:47

has no connection with my search for the

28:49

hooken.

28:51

But in fact, the presence of both

28:54

depends [music] on the precise flow of

28:56

the river.

28:58

Hooken dislike water that's too

29:00

sluggish. And so does Imry. [music]

29:03

He needs the current to be a certain

29:05

speed to carry the gold particles

29:07

downstream from their source.

29:10

There's lots of specks, [music] but they

29:12

are tiny. They are tiny, tiny.

29:15

>> What makes Imry's task extra difficult

29:17

is that nowadays the [music] flow of the

29:20

river has become unpredictable.

29:29

>> He's saying there's a dam that's gone in

29:30

up river and [music]

29:32

since that happened, it's just changed

29:34

the river. The panning spots [music]

29:36

have changed.

29:38

By next week, the precious gold could

29:41

have been carried somewhere else.

29:45

Dams are built for many [music] reasons,

29:47

not least to improve navigation.

29:50

But by changing the river's [music]

29:52

natural flow, I wonder if they're making

29:55

life hard for the hooken.

29:59

If you were just an ordinary person,

30:00

you're looking at a river you [music]

30:02

you think is exactly the same. But if

30:03

this is what you do, you know that

30:06

something's [music] happened. You don't

30:07

even have to know about the dam. you

30:08

just know that something's happened to

30:09

the flow. And it has to be the same for

30:11

the fish, too. We don't understand

30:14

enough about them. But if a dam can so

30:18

change the flow of a river that somebody

30:20

[music] panning for gold can detect it,

30:23

then the hooken have got to be affected.

30:26

They are indicators.

30:28

They indicate that [music] we've done

30:30

something to the river that I need to

30:31

understand.

30:33

Maybe I'll find the real thing in

30:35

neighboring Austria. I'm going to a

30:38

place that was once of the heart of the

30:40

Hookans range.

30:49

[music] Superficially, there's not much

30:51

wrong with the Danube here. [music] And

30:54

on close inspection, it looks better

30:56

suited to hooken than anywhere I've seen

30:58

so far.

31:01

It's narrower, but it's also faster. The

31:05

water's clearer and almost certainly

31:07

there's a higher oxygen content. Now,

31:10

from my knowledge of the salmon family,

31:12

it's this kind of water where they're

31:15

much more likely to feel at home.

31:19

Hookin are active sight hunters that

31:22

thrive in clean, fast flowing water

31:25

courses. That's why their presence is a

31:27

kind of gold standard for a healthy

31:30

river.

31:32

This is a nice little bit of slack off

31:35

the main push. I mean, the main current

31:36

is is running very very strong and fast.

31:40

But in here, it's the kind of place that

31:42

uh fish might be lurking.

31:49

What I'm trying to do is let the lure

31:52

sink to the bottom and then just twitch

31:54

it, let it sink again, twitch it, let it

31:56

sink again, twitch, sink.

32:00

One thing that can't be blamed for the

32:02

hookan's absence is over fishing.

32:06

As a species, hooken have never been

32:08

commercially exploited.

32:10

And here at least, recreational anglers

32:13

are required by law to put them back.

32:17

Since nothing is [music] biting though,

32:19

I decide to ask around.

32:24

>> What fish are you after?

32:26

>> Pike.

32:26

>> For a hex. Have you fished here on the

32:29

Danube? Many years.

32:31

>> Yes. Yeah.

32:32

>> Since Since?

32:33

>> Yes. Little boy.

32:35

>> Yeah. What about hookin? Do you see them

32:37

at all in the river now?

32:44

>> He says he's never seen any hookin in

32:46

the river, but he's got a contact who

32:49

sounds [music] intriguing.

32:50

>> You have a friend who's a specialist.

32:53

>> Can you give me his his name and maybe

32:55

uh how do I find him? So here's what

32:57

>> Fisher Ysef

33:00

>> and uh where is he?

33:02

>> Rosat.

33:03

>> Okay. So that's that's just that's just

33:06

down a little way here. Yeah.

33:09

>> Nice. Thank you.

33:13

>> No fish, but some interesting

33:15

information. It seems I need to go and

33:17

speak with a certain Mr. Fisher.

33:21

Maybe I'm actually going to see the

33:23

Danube's elusive ghost fish.

33:29

>> The aptly named fishes are eager to show

33:32

me something very special.

33:35

>> Look at that. What an amazing fish.

33:41

>> For decades, hooken have hardly been

33:43

seen in the Danube. Just so fantastic.

33:47

I've never seen hooken [music] before.

33:48

And here they are. They're almost in

33:50

touching distance.

33:51

>> What we do here, we're keeping [music]

33:53

them.

33:53

>> Joe and his dad are hooking fanatics.

33:56

>> We use them for

33:57

>> for years, they've dreamt [music] of

33:58

reestablishing a wild population in the

34:01

Vakal Valley.

34:04

This irrigated pond holds their precious

34:06

[music] breeding stock.

34:11

That's nice. Here we go.

34:16

There. There. There. There.

34:19

Look at this. I never thought I would

34:22

get to hold one of these in my lifetime.

34:27

That's a very very rare fish.

34:32

And uh they are just magnificent.

34:37

Breeding and raising baby hooken is a

34:40

timeconsuming business that costs the

34:42

fishers a [music] lot of money.

34:48

The fact that you are doing it as

34:50

private individuals purely out of

34:51

interest and passion that really is

34:53

something special definitely if we don't

34:56

do it nobody else is doing it

34:58

>> bringing the hookan back would [music]

35:00

be extraordinary

35:02

but for that to happen don't we need to

35:05

understand why it vanished in the first

35:07

place

35:09

so this big decline in the hookum why do

35:12

you think that was

35:14

>> that the biggest problem is

35:16

straightening. In the 17th and 18th

35:19

century, the government wanted to do

35:21

shipping a little easier and [music] now

35:23

it's a huge problem.

35:25

>> Starting 300 years ago, it seems that

35:28

large stretches of the naturally winding

35:30

Danube have been radically

35:32

re-engineered.

35:33

>> Okay, let me show you.

35:40

>> Oh, wow. That's really dramatic. A

35:43

surprising amount of change. The red

35:45

tier was ideal for hooking. Just a lot

35:48

of bends and curves. When you go

35:50

further, you see that all the ravel

35:53

banks and bends are lost. They were the

35:55

most important thing for the hooken to

35:57

breed.

35:59

>> So, it's a conflict between navigation

36:01

and the breeding of the hooken. And by

36:03

improving the navigation, it is almost

36:06

destroyed the breeding conditions for

36:07

the hooken.

36:08

>> Definitely correct.

36:11

Remarkably though, I'm told that some of

36:13

the engineering that destroyed the

36:15

hookan's breeding grounds has now been

36:17

undone.

36:19

And for the fishes, this is creating a

36:22

unique opportunity.

36:24

When the Danube was straightened for

36:26

shipping, side branches like this were

36:29

sealed off. But several have now been

36:32

reconnected, and these revived

36:34

backwaters make an ideal nursery for

36:37

young hookin.

36:43

The temperature right here is perfect.

36:45

It's very clear. There's no waste from

36:48

ships. Plus, there's no fishing allowed,

36:51

so they can grow up here very safely.

36:54

[music]

36:55

>> Just as important, though, is that the

36:57

Danub's reopened side branches also have

37:00

the right conditions [music] for adult

37:02

hooken to breed.

37:06

Successful breeding for hooken is about

37:08

the structure of the riverbed. They need

37:11

gravel [music] in order to breed.

37:14

>> The thing about gravel as opposed to mud

37:16

or [music] silt is the spaces in

37:18

between. This allows the water to flow

37:20

around the eggs bringing that [music]

37:22

all important to dissolved oxygen

37:24

without which those eggs would just die.

37:27

If you straighten the river, if the flow

37:28

is too strong, it washes away those

37:31

gravel beds

37:34

and you [music] lose the fish.

37:39

When I first tried to pick up the trail

37:40

of the hooken back in Hungary, I never

37:43

imagined that I would see one actually

37:45

in the waters of the Danube. And here I

37:47

am not seeing one. There's 30 or 40 in

37:50

front of me. This could be the beginning

37:54

of something very significant.

37:57

If the hooken story teaches me anything,

38:00

good luck,

38:00

>> it's that a tightly controlled river is

38:03

not [music] wildlife friendly,

38:06

no matter how pretty it looks.

38:09

The whole process of control of the

38:12

river by humans is something which has

38:14

continued and accelerated even until

38:17

this day.

38:18

>> The thing about rivers is that they're

38:20

restless, writhing creatures. They keep

38:23

changing their course. So, we lock them

38:26

in a straight jacket,

38:28

but the fish don't always like that.

38:33

Further up the Danube, though, lives an

38:35

exception. An aquatic invader that's

38:39

wreaking havoc.

38:43

In its upper reaches, the Danube is more

38:45

than 1,500 miles from the sea. But I've

38:49

heard that this part of the river is

38:51

being overrun by a saltwater invader.

38:57

Oh, there we go. Something just pulled.

39:00

Oh, yes. Yeah, I've got something. I've

39:02

got something. I've got one.

39:06

It may look cute, but according to

39:08

reports, it's a destroyer. This is a

39:11

thing called a round goi. This shouldn't

39:13

be anywhere near here. The Gobi's

39:16

natural habitat is on the shores of the

39:18

Black Sea amongst rocks. This

39:21

interesting arrangement of the pelvic

39:23

fins that is for sort of holding itself

39:26

to a rock.

39:28

>> To find out more about these tiny

39:30

[music] invaders, I've arranged to go

39:32

fishing with biology professor Jurgen

39:34

Gist.

39:35

>> Nice to meet you. You will need rubber

39:36

boots and special gloves.

39:38

>> So, these goies, how do they get here?

39:40

>> By ship balanced water. They hump in

39:43

water and automatically suck in eggs or

39:46

larvi or even adult fish. And when this

39:49

water gets [music] released at those

39:51

upstream sites, the gobies enter these

39:53

areas.

39:54

>> So basically right down in the mouth of

39:55

the river, they're taking in water just

39:57

to create stability for the boat that

39:59

then comes up here. They let that water

40:01

go.

40:02

>> But it's not just water. There's lots of

40:03

other stuff in it as well.

40:04

>> Exactly. There are very few fish that

40:06

can easily move from salt water into

40:08

fresh water. But the gobies can cope

40:10

very well with fresh water.

40:15

>> Today we're fishing both sides of the

40:17

river, starting along one of the rare

40:20

stretches of completely natural

40:22

shoreline.

40:25

>> We will do some electro fishing in this

40:28

really shallow area.

40:29

>> Okay.

40:33

Jurgen's net is in fact an electrode

40:36

that shocks the water with around 800

40:38

volts. Enough to stun any fish within 6

40:41

ft.

40:43

My job is to scoop them up before they

40:45

recover and swim off.

40:48

>> Here we go.

40:52

>> Oh yeah.

40:54

>> It doesn't take long to get some fish

40:57

and I'm curious to see what's here. This

41:00

is really interesting because within

41:02

this natural stretch uh we really

41:04

exclusively got native species of fish.

41:07

>> So no gobies,

41:08

>> no gobies, only native fish, including

41:12

this trout.

41:14

This is a young fish. So this habitat is

41:16

extremely important for the reproduction

41:18

of those native fishes.

41:21

>> So where are all the gobies?

41:25

The opposite side of the river is also

41:28

shallow. The big difference is that the

41:30

bank here is man-made. [music]

41:33

>> In between those boulders, those are the

41:36

spots where they are hiding.

41:37

>> Okay.

41:38

>> Using exactly the same voltage, we

41:40

quickly fill our bucket with stunned

41:42

fish. You

41:44

>> can see

41:45

>> they really come out all of these.

41:47

>> Oh, they they sink, don't they? Yeah.

41:48

>> Yeah. Yeah.

41:51

>> The question is, [music]

41:52

how many of them actually belong here?

42:02

Out of all the fish that we caught here,

42:04

there's just one single native species.

42:06

[music]

42:06

>> That's a chop, isn't it?

42:08

>> Yes. But this is totally dominated by

42:10

goies.

42:13

We find all size and age [music] classes

42:15

from the really big adults

42:18

to those very small ones.

42:22

This is ideal habitat [music] for them.

42:25

The tight packed rocks along the banks

42:27

hold the river in place.

42:30

For native fish, this straight jacket

42:32

[music] is an alien environment, but for

42:35

the gobies, it's home away from home.

42:39

I have noticed a lot of these banks. How

42:42

much of the Danuba are we talking about?

42:44

>> More than 90%.

42:47

>> So, what effect does this have on the

42:48

native species? Within the last 10 to 15

42:51

years, [music] the entire food web of

42:54

this upper Danube region has completely

42:56

changed.

42:59

It's such a dramatic difference.

43:03

>> Hundreds of miles of man-made banks are

43:06

allowing the invaders to proliferate.

43:10

And worse still, they're gobbling up the

43:12

eggs and young of native fish.

43:16

What I need to know is [music] whether

43:18

there's anything here that eats goies.

43:24

Dusk is often the time when predators

43:26

stir.

43:28

And there's one in particular that could

43:30

be very significant.

43:36

Just a few feet out, you've got an area

43:39

that's about 20t deep. It's the kind of

43:43

place where you'd expect to find a

43:45

larger fish.

43:47

When I think about fish that might be

43:48

unaffected by man-made banks, my mind

43:52

turns to a beast that can grow bigger

43:54

than a man.

43:56

It's a fish that guards its nest. So any

44:00

gobies after its eggs would end up on

44:02

the menu themselves.

44:05

If it is still here, then I, for one,

44:08

will feel a flicker of hope. Here

44:14

we go. Here we go.

44:16

Yes. Yes.

44:25

I've got the drag really tight because

44:29

I don't want the fish running. I just

44:30

want to This isn't strong gear. I just

44:32

want to get it in.

44:34

Ah. Oh god. Still there. It's in close.

44:37

It's in close.

44:39

There it is. There it is.

44:50

Here we go. Here we go.

44:56

This, I'm [music] very pleased to say,

44:58

is a native species.

45:01

>> The Danubian or Wells [music] catfish is

45:04

an eating machine.

45:07

This is the apex predator of this part

45:09

of the river. And uh think about those

45:11

gobies. They would just be perfect um

45:15

[music] snacks. Not even bite-sized

45:16

snacks. They wouldn't need to bite them.

45:17

They just suck them in.

45:20

For me though, this goi eater is doubly

45:24

significant.

45:25

In most of the big rivers in the world

45:27

now, you won't find [music] iconic

45:30

species in the main rivers. You've got

45:32

to go to very remote corners on the

45:34

[music] river systems. So to get a

45:36

decent sized Danubian catfish from the

45:38

Danube

45:40

actually feels very good.

45:48

Perhaps more than any other river in the

45:50

world, the Danube [music] is one

45:51

continuous picture postcard. How could

45:54

anything possibly be wrong? But looking

45:57

under the surface, what you've got is a

45:59

very complicated story. This is far from

46:02

a natural wild river.

46:05

What makes me hopeful is the continued

46:07

presence [music] of the beluga sturgeon,

46:10

the hookan, and the denubian whales

46:13

catfish.

46:15

That these are still here, still

46:16

clinging on is testimony to the fact

46:18

that this is still a living river.

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