Food Theory: The Trader Joe’s Conspiracy
FULL TRANSCRIPT
Trader Joe's. Quaint neighborhood
grocery store or home to a thriving cult
that offers you tasty treats in exchange
for a price far, far steeper than your
soul, your rent. Hello, internet.
Welcome to Food Theory, the channel
that'll give you something new to
discuss when the TJ's employees force
you into small talk. I mean, if you
don't want to discuss how addictive
their three cheese pasta with eggplant
is. Like, I know, Marley. That's why I'm
buying seven of them. Get off my
eggplant, dude. But that's not even the
worst part, because no matter where TJ's
goes, it spells doom for everyone around
it. For those who haven't had the
pleasure of fighting soccer moms for
parking in the smallest, busiest parking
lots in America, Trader Joe's is a bit
of a unicorn in the grocery store game.
They're not plagued by robotic selfch
checkouts. They don't have rewards
programs or even sales because their
prices are already so low, and they are
physically tiny. On average, they're
about a fourth the size of other grocery
stores. Also, while markets like Kroger
and Albertson's offer zillions of name
brand goods, Trader Joe's only has a
handful of private label items, and a
majority of their products are
surprisingly unique. Like, you might be
picking up Egos for breakfast at
Walmart, but at Joe's, you're picking up
yourself some sweet cinnamon fil Korean
pancakes. And after you eat them, you
will not shut up about them. That's just
how Trader Joe's works. You find
something intriguing, you try it, and
then presumably fall under Joe the
Warlock's spell because now you're
praying it isn't seasonal cuz you just
can't get enough of it. Or worse, it
could be, yes, discontinued. RIP to the
snacks that get snapped. Let's be real
though, getting us hooked on Brookies
isn't all that sinister of a magic
trick. But unfortunately, Joe's been
dabbling in the dark arts. And not only
has it corrupted Joe, but some now think
it's taking a toll on the communities he
supposedly once cared for. So today I
want to unpack how Trader Joe's
hypnotized us into salivating zombies
and in the process uncover a series of
unfortunate truths that might just one
day break the delicious curse they have
on our land. Okay, so I know I'm leaning
hard into the wizard metaphor here, but
if I'm being accurate, Trader Joe's
branding is much more adventurer
explorer code. Since its inception, TJ's
has been going for a vibe similar to
Nathan Drake seeing Jimmy Buffett open
for the 1900's World Fair. This world
traveler aesthetic is in many ways not
just the visual identity of the store
but the thematic springboard that
launched it into popularity. As the
story goes way way back in 1967, a man
had a flash of foresight that turned him
from a struggling business owner into a
grocery store tycoon. Not to be confused
with Spider Lab Gaming's grocery store
tycoon, which are goated. But I'll give
you one guess as to what this man's name
was. Lock in your answer by clicking the
subscribe button. Ready? 3 seconds. 3 2
1. Nice. All right, let's see what we
got here. Who said Seymour butts? This
is why we can't have nice things. It was
Joe. All right, his name was Joe. Joe
Cologne to be exact. Back in the day,
Joe was a simple convenience store owner
running six markets in the Los Angeles
area. But he had a problem. His pronto
markets were getting absolutely proton
torpedoed by 7-Eleven. So, instead of
competing with slurpees and late night
munchies, he hit the drawing board to
develop a way to escape from his
competition's sticky shadow. At the
time, Joe had recently been on Disney's
Jungle Cruise, and he was reading a book
called White Shadows in the South Seas.
This made him notice that tropical
gimmicks were kind of having a moment in
California. Like, tiki bars, for
example, had been a booming fad,
particularly the high-end tiki hut,
Trader Vicks, in Beverly Hills. So, Joe
decided to yoink Vicks branding and turn
his Pasadena pronto market into the
first Trader Joe's, a place where
worldly taste could be affordable at
home. Really, that's the reason why the
store is called Trader Joe's. It's
supposed to paint the picture of Joe and
his crew sailing the world, trading
goods, and bringing back new flavors to
the States. They call it sailing the
culinary seas. It's like One Piece, but
with groceries and better pacing. And
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theory or scan the QR code on screen.
Let's get back to Joe's, shall we? This
nautical explorer gimmick extends to all
parts of TJ's brand. Store managers are
called captains, supervisors are mates,
and employees are crew members. The
aesthetic of the store and its products
avoids that glossy, sterile corporate
trend that other grocerers share.
Instead, evoking the feeling of visiting
an open air market at an international
trade harbor. These themes of
exploration are even intended to extend
to you, the customer. Did you find that
hidden gem of a snack? Did you try a new
food you didn't even know existed? Good.
You're not shopping for groceries.
You're a treasure hunter bringing home a
bounty of flavor. And a huge reason why
Joe put all his chips on red, white, and
floral had to do with the potential he
saw in the evolving tastes of the era.
One big factor was the GI Bill of
Rights, which gave military service
members the opportunity to have their
higher education subsidized by Uncle
Sam. His 10 years of running pronto
market taught him that educated
consumers were open to trying new
flavors, and thanks to the GI Bill, this
demo was only growing. He also saw that
global travel was starting to become
more convenient and affordable and
accessible thanks to innovations in jet
planes. This meant more Americans were
going abroad and developing food
cravings that they couldn't quite
satisfy at home. Trader Joe's unique
product lines were intended to be the
solution to this problem. Unfortunately
for Joe, his new direction wasn't an
instant hit. But with a little time, he
was able to find success with two major
products, wine and granola. In the
1960s, California had fair trade laws
that essentially made it so all grocery
stores had to sell imported wines at the
same price. Basically, this was to
prevent the large retailers from edging
out smaller businesses. Without the
laws, the bigger players could afford to
sell wine at a slight loss to make their
stores more appealing, thus drawing
business away from the mom and pop shops
and starving them out. Joe discovered a
clever workaround. However, the prices
of foreign wines were set by the price
posted by the wines's importer, aka the
middleman. So Joe just cut him out. He
worked his magic and found an importer
who was willing to list wine at a huge
markdown just for him. This allowed Joe
to skirt the fair trade laws and his
stores became the go-to location for a
wide selection of cheap foreign wines.
Over time, this reputation became a core
part of Trader Joe's identity, and both
the customers and employees at Joe's
started to fancy themselves as wine
experts. As it turns out, there's a lot
of overlap between self-proclaimed wine
connoisseurs and health-conscious
consumers, which is weird, but it led to
Joe discovering the profitability of
granola in the 70s. Not only did Trader
Joe's granola help solidify the brand as
a healthier market, but it became the
first private label item sold at the
store. This was huge. Private label or
store brand products are products that
are exclusive to their retailers. Unlike
national brand products like Coca-Cola
and Lays which are sold everywhere,
private label goods aren't produced,
however, by the store brands that sell
them, the stores just buy the products
wholesale in bulk from a supplier and
slap their branding on them. And private
label goods are basically all Trader
Joe's sells now because Joe learned that
these items can be sold much cheaper
than their competitors while still
remaining profitable. They're also great
for building up brand loyalty as long as
they're of an acceptable quality. This
isn't an issue for TJ's because Old Joe
built the brand on a foundation of
quality. Quality products, quality
service, and quality of life. Now,
obviously, I've teased ruining this
man's legacy earlier in the intro, but
by all accounts, Trader Joe, the man was
a real stand-up entrepreneur. Sure, the
whole tiki appropriation thing is worth
a strong side eye, but everything I've
read about Joe points to him earnestly
wanting to nourish local communities and
celebrate international culture.
Starting in his pronto market days, he
was paying his staff higher wages than
his competitors. His thought was that he
wanted to spend his working days with
good and interesting people and quality
employees deserved quality wages. Even
as the economy shifted over the years,
he paid individual crew members
Californian family income levels. If you
worked for Joe, your family could get by
just fine on a single salary. So working
at Joe's wasn't just a job, it was a
career. This was just one example of why
Joe was the sort of guy to give his
staff and his customers everything but
the bagel. Even after he sold Trader
Joe's to Aldine or in 1979, he stayed on
as CEO until 1988, ensuring that TJ's
rare company culture remained intact as
the brand went national. Bear in mind
that National was only 19 stores at the
time, but for the most part, his
successors have continued to nurture
that community forward spirit, even as
they've expanded Joe's to the 608
locations it has today. When their third
CEO, Dan Bane, took over, he made it a
point to codify Joe's business
philosophy into seven core company
values that every crew member to this
day is trained to live by. Yes, even
Marley. I know because I quizzed him
after he tried to sell me on OG. If
you're thinking, "Hey, is indoctrinating
workers with seven abstract principles
giving lumen from severance?" I'd say
that would explain why Marley is hawking
that chunky vegan oat so hard. The man's
trying to earn himself a bio ledge
waffle party. You know what I'm saying?
But these values are where TJ's starts
to get a little culty. I mean, Bane went
on the record calling these seven values
we preach to our people. Now, I'm under
the impression that during Bane's
tenure, these were still actually mostly
wholesome. But what are these famous
values? Having integrity, being product
driven, providing wow experiences,
hating bureaucracy, treating the store
as a brand, being a national
neighborhood company, and a $5 word
known as Kaizen. Now, a lot of these are
pretty straightforward and track with
Joe Colom's original core values. When
Bane says integrity, he's talking about
treating people with respect, treating
people how you would like to be treated.
Standard golden rule stuff that aligns
with the way Joe paid his staff. Being
product driven is all about the quality
and uniqueness of their products.
Apparently, TJ's product developers
still travel all over the world to get
ideas for new offerings, and they take
their product integrity pretty
seriously, too. According to Trader
Joe's official podcast, the new item
taste test panels are highly critical.
They also seem to go overboard on the
security as to make them impossible for
suppliers to infiltrate and influence.
The one time that a photojournalist was
invited to one, the tasters all had to
keep their identities a secret under
paper bag masks on the chance that
vendors could trace the photos back and
bribe Joe's kingmakers. Creating wow
experiences is where we start to get
into murky territory with these values.
mostly because I think this is where Dan
Bane could have benefited from
consulting a dictionary for their names
rather than riffing off the top of his
head. This value is really about the
experience that turns running errands at
Trader Joe's into Jojo's bizarre
adventure. Joe's has fine-tuned the
novelty of shopping in their stores for
novelties. Yes, the discovery of
globalins inspired flavors feels like a
treasure hunt, but it goes even further
than that. TJ's is artfully engineered
to give you this experience. For
example, its freezer section holds many
of their most iconic products, from
their orange chicken to their kimbab to
their pizzas imported directly from
Italy. It's important to them that the
barrier to browsing is as low as
possible. Literally. At traditional
grocery outlets, freezer sections
require customers to open up a big old
freezer door, which means it's not as
easy to peruse as all the stores
offerings. But at Trader Joe's, the
freezers are wide open and low to the
ground. This invites customers to
impulsively add more items to their
cart. Oh, just one more beef and queso
bowl. Ooh, and those freaking feta
caramelized onion pastry bites. I can't
stop eating, but our 40 billion calories
are so delicious. Wow. Experience also
encapsulates customer service. It's why
Marley has a little bell he can ring
that summons more eager, friendly crew
members when you tell him that you can't
find the taco seasoning. It's also why
Marley won't shut up about the
incredible strawberry jalapeno crisps in
your cart, no matter how badly you want
to pay and get out of there with minimal
conversation. Employees are encouraged
to not only talk to you about the items
in your cart, but make you feel good
about having purchased them. It's like
the modern-day equivalent of a butler
saying, "hm, very good, sir." after
you've asked them to bring you a glass
of brandy in the study. They want you to
feel like a genius for selecting just
the right cheese. They know that you're
more likely to return and buy more if
you feel confident in the aftermath of
your purchase. So, even if you're just
grabbing some cold cuts and grape juice
on your lunch break, Marley is going to
make you feel like you're Batman sliding
into a well-tailored suit as he bags
your goods. Trader Joe's also claims to
hate bureaucracy, favoring relaxed vibes
and a less corporate atmosphere. They
instead prefer the Japanese business
philosophy of Kaizen. Kai meaning change
or social media manager and Zen meaning
good or for the better. To practice
Kaizen, TJ's aims to continuously change
and develop for the betterment of their
employees, customers, and communities.
This also means continuously improving
their product offerings and is the
reason why your favorite snacks
disappear forever and are replaced by
something almost as good and you're just
expected to say thank you for the
emotional growth forever in my heart.
Jos never forget. Joe's also believes
that the store itself is the brand, not
their individual products. By immersing
you in their themed decor, Hawaiian
shirts, and private label items, Trader
Joe's branding is the star of the
grocery shopping experience. They even
sell a coffee table art book dedicated
to all the bespoke art featured in their
stores. Honestly, to me, that sounds
like the most interesting gift you can
get for the least interesting person in
your life. So, that leaves us with the
last and maybe most complicated of TJ's
seven values. Being a
national/neighborhood company, no matter
how large the company grows or how many
stores they set up, each Trader Joe's
you walk into should feel like a homey
part of your community. They basically
want to be the cheers of national
grocery store chains. But instead of Sam
alone pouring you a cold bruswki after a
long day, it's Marley complimenting your
choice and frozen tikka masala before
running your debit card. This, unlike
the other golden rules, really does
sound kind of golden. But the national/
neighborhood thing is also where things
get a little dicey because TJ's doesn't
just adapt to neighborhoods. It signals
something to them. And one of the things
it signals is that property values are
going up. Multiple studies have found
that when a TJ's opens in a
neighborhood, property values increase
at an accelerated rate. A 2017 Zillow
study, for example, found that between
1997 and 2014, homes near a Trader Joe's
appreciated an average of 148%, while
the typical US home appreciated by only
71% over the same period. Even more
notable, the study analyzed store
opening dates and found that TJ's wasn't
drafting off of already hot
neighborhoods, which means there was a
causality between the opening of a TJ's
and the rise in property values. In
other words, Trader Joe's didn't follow
the money. The money followed Trader
Joe's. Somewhere out there, a real
estate agent is legally required to say
a place is within walking distance of
Trader Joe's click their heels and spin
three times before showing a listing.
Now, again, rising property values can
be a good thing, right? Sure they can.
If, and this is a big if, you already
own a home. If you're renting, get ready
for a 6% rent increase next year. And if
you're looking to buy, well, now you
have to compete with developers,
landlords, and investors who are also
eyeing that lovely house on the corner
just two blocks away from that Trader
Joe's. The problem isn't just the rent
either. Once they're in those lower
inome neighborhoods, less affluent
residents tend to not shop there as much
anyway, because TJ's doesn't have all
the necessities that people need.
Instead, all those bells and whistles
sort of foods they sell invite people of
a higher socioeconomic status to shop
there, which only increases this
perception of gentrification. Trader
Joe's may not come in and bulldoze
entire neighborhoods, but it does sort
of signal that the bulldozers are
already on their way. So, it makes sense
that some communities have pushed back
against new stores. People are right to
worry that they may get priced out of
their neighborhood as a side effect of
TJ's. And listen, the push back matters.
This is something that the company has
occasionally shown it understands. In at
least one highly publicized case, TJ's
did something that's pretty rare for a
national retail company. They walked
away from a potentially profitable
situation. In Portland, Oregon, plans to
open a TJ's in a historically black
neighborhood were met with protests from
residents who feared the store would
accelerate gentrification, causing
displacement without actually serving
the underserved people who lived there.
To their credit, Trader Joe's listened.
Rather than forcing the project through,
they abandoned it entirely and issued a
statement that was kind of refreshing.
We run neighborhood stores. If a
neighborhood doesn't want Trader Joe's,
we understand and we won't open the
store in question. But despite that one
instance, Trader Joe's's popularity is
only going up as the Seven Values bring
in more and more members into this cult.
As a business, TJ's has to grow and
expand. And as it spreads, more and more
neighborhoods will find themselves
having to fight back against Trader
Joe's. So, is TJ's a cult? Yes. But as
long as TJ's keeps listening to and
actually serving local communities
without forcing people out just because
some people can't live without their
orange chicken, they'll at least avoid
becoming Traitor Joe's for now. But hey,
that's just a theory. A food theory bro.
And hey, want to know the best way to
make hot chocolate? Make sure to click
the link on the screen now. And as
always, I'll see you next
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