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Food Theory: The Trader Joe’s Conspiracy

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FULL TRANSCRIPT

0:00

Trader Joe's. Quaint neighborhood

0:02

grocery store or home to a thriving cult

0:05

that offers you tasty treats in exchange

0:07

for a price far, far steeper than your

0:10

soul, your rent. Hello, internet.

0:14

Welcome to Food Theory, the channel

0:15

that'll give you something new to

0:17

discuss when the TJ's employees force

0:19

you into small talk. I mean, if you

0:21

don't want to discuss how addictive

0:23

their three cheese pasta with eggplant

0:25

is. Like, I know, Marley. That's why I'm

0:27

buying seven of them. Get off my

0:29

eggplant, dude. But that's not even the

0:31

worst part, because no matter where TJ's

0:33

goes, it spells doom for everyone around

0:36

it. For those who haven't had the

0:37

pleasure of fighting soccer moms for

0:39

parking in the smallest, busiest parking

0:42

lots in America, Trader Joe's is a bit

0:44

of a unicorn in the grocery store game.

0:46

They're not plagued by robotic selfch

0:48

checkouts. They don't have rewards

0:49

programs or even sales because their

0:51

prices are already so low, and they are

0:53

physically tiny. On average, they're

0:56

about a fourth the size of other grocery

0:57

stores. Also, while markets like Kroger

0:59

and Albertson's offer zillions of name

1:02

brand goods, Trader Joe's only has a

1:04

handful of private label items, and a

1:05

majority of their products are

1:07

surprisingly unique. Like, you might be

1:09

picking up Egos for breakfast at

1:11

Walmart, but at Joe's, you're picking up

1:12

yourself some sweet cinnamon fil Korean

1:15

pancakes. And after you eat them, you

1:18

will not shut up about them. That's just

1:19

how Trader Joe's works. You find

1:21

something intriguing, you try it, and

1:23

then presumably fall under Joe the

1:25

Warlock's spell because now you're

1:26

praying it isn't seasonal cuz you just

1:28

can't get enough of it. Or worse, it

1:30

could be, yes, discontinued. RIP to the

1:32

snacks that get snapped. Let's be real

1:34

though, getting us hooked on Brookies

1:36

isn't all that sinister of a magic

1:37

trick. But unfortunately, Joe's been

1:39

dabbling in the dark arts. And not only

1:41

has it corrupted Joe, but some now think

1:44

it's taking a toll on the communities he

1:46

supposedly once cared for. So today I

1:49

want to unpack how Trader Joe's

1:50

hypnotized us into salivating zombies

1:53

and in the process uncover a series of

1:55

unfortunate truths that might just one

1:58

day break the delicious curse they have

2:00

on our land. Okay, so I know I'm leaning

2:02

hard into the wizard metaphor here, but

2:03

if I'm being accurate, Trader Joe's

2:05

branding is much more adventurer

2:07

explorer code. Since its inception, TJ's

2:10

has been going for a vibe similar to

2:12

Nathan Drake seeing Jimmy Buffett open

2:14

for the 1900's World Fair. This world

2:17

traveler aesthetic is in many ways not

2:19

just the visual identity of the store

2:21

but the thematic springboard that

2:22

launched it into popularity. As the

2:24

story goes way way back in 1967, a man

2:27

had a flash of foresight that turned him

2:29

from a struggling business owner into a

2:31

grocery store tycoon. Not to be confused

2:33

with Spider Lab Gaming's grocery store

2:35

tycoon, which are goated. But I'll give

2:38

you one guess as to what this man's name

2:40

was. Lock in your answer by clicking the

2:42

subscribe button. Ready? 3 seconds. 3 2

2:44

1. Nice. All right, let's see what we

2:46

got here. Who said Seymour butts? This

2:49

is why we can't have nice things. It was

2:51

Joe. All right, his name was Joe. Joe

2:53

Cologne to be exact. Back in the day,

2:55

Joe was a simple convenience store owner

2:57

running six markets in the Los Angeles

2:59

area. But he had a problem. His pronto

3:01

markets were getting absolutely proton

3:04

torpedoed by 7-Eleven. So, instead of

3:06

competing with slurpees and late night

3:07

munchies, he hit the drawing board to

3:09

develop a way to escape from his

3:11

competition's sticky shadow. At the

3:13

time, Joe had recently been on Disney's

3:15

Jungle Cruise, and he was reading a book

3:17

called White Shadows in the South Seas.

3:19

This made him notice that tropical

3:20

gimmicks were kind of having a moment in

3:22

California. Like, tiki bars, for

3:24

example, had been a booming fad,

3:26

particularly the high-end tiki hut,

3:28

Trader Vicks, in Beverly Hills. So, Joe

3:30

decided to yoink Vicks branding and turn

3:33

his Pasadena pronto market into the

3:35

first Trader Joe's, a place where

3:38

worldly taste could be affordable at

3:39

home. Really, that's the reason why the

3:41

store is called Trader Joe's. It's

3:42

supposed to paint the picture of Joe and

3:44

his crew sailing the world, trading

3:46

goods, and bringing back new flavors to

3:49

the States. They call it sailing the

3:51

culinary seas. It's like One Piece, but

3:53

with groceries and better pacing. And

3:55

listen, if you're already bought into

3:56

the cult and find yourself at Trader

3:58

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4:10

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5:23

Let's get back to Joe's, shall we? This

5:25

nautical explorer gimmick extends to all

5:27

parts of TJ's brand. Store managers are

5:29

called captains, supervisors are mates,

5:32

and employees are crew members. The

5:33

aesthetic of the store and its products

5:35

avoids that glossy, sterile corporate

5:37

trend that other grocerers share.

5:39

Instead, evoking the feeling of visiting

5:41

an open air market at an international

5:44

trade harbor. These themes of

5:46

exploration are even intended to extend

5:47

to you, the customer. Did you find that

5:49

hidden gem of a snack? Did you try a new

5:52

food you didn't even know existed? Good.

5:54

You're not shopping for groceries.

5:56

You're a treasure hunter bringing home a

5:57

bounty of flavor. And a huge reason why

6:00

Joe put all his chips on red, white, and

6:02

floral had to do with the potential he

6:03

saw in the evolving tastes of the era.

6:05

One big factor was the GI Bill of

6:07

Rights, which gave military service

6:09

members the opportunity to have their

6:11

higher education subsidized by Uncle

6:13

Sam. His 10 years of running pronto

6:15

market taught him that educated

6:16

consumers were open to trying new

6:18

flavors, and thanks to the GI Bill, this

6:20

demo was only growing. He also saw that

6:22

global travel was starting to become

6:24

more convenient and affordable and

6:26

accessible thanks to innovations in jet

6:28

planes. This meant more Americans were

6:30

going abroad and developing food

6:32

cravings that they couldn't quite

6:33

satisfy at home. Trader Joe's unique

6:35

product lines were intended to be the

6:37

solution to this problem. Unfortunately

6:38

for Joe, his new direction wasn't an

6:41

instant hit. But with a little time, he

6:43

was able to find success with two major

6:45

products, wine and granola. In the

6:48

1960s, California had fair trade laws

6:50

that essentially made it so all grocery

6:52

stores had to sell imported wines at the

6:54

same price. Basically, this was to

6:56

prevent the large retailers from edging

6:58

out smaller businesses. Without the

6:59

laws, the bigger players could afford to

7:01

sell wine at a slight loss to make their

7:03

stores more appealing, thus drawing

7:05

business away from the mom and pop shops

7:07

and starving them out. Joe discovered a

7:09

clever workaround. However, the prices

7:11

of foreign wines were set by the price

7:13

posted by the wines's importer, aka the

7:16

middleman. So Joe just cut him out. He

7:18

worked his magic and found an importer

7:20

who was willing to list wine at a huge

7:22

markdown just for him. This allowed Joe

7:25

to skirt the fair trade laws and his

7:26

stores became the go-to location for a

7:29

wide selection of cheap foreign wines.

7:31

Over time, this reputation became a core

7:34

part of Trader Joe's identity, and both

7:35

the customers and employees at Joe's

7:37

started to fancy themselves as wine

7:39

experts. As it turns out, there's a lot

7:41

of overlap between self-proclaimed wine

7:44

connoisseurs and health-conscious

7:46

consumers, which is weird, but it led to

7:48

Joe discovering the profitability of

7:50

granola in the 70s. Not only did Trader

7:52

Joe's granola help solidify the brand as

7:54

a healthier market, but it became the

7:56

first private label item sold at the

7:58

store. This was huge. Private label or

8:00

store brand products are products that

8:02

are exclusive to their retailers. Unlike

8:04

national brand products like Coca-Cola

8:06

and Lays which are sold everywhere,

8:08

private label goods aren't produced,

8:10

however, by the store brands that sell

8:12

them, the stores just buy the products

8:14

wholesale in bulk from a supplier and

8:16

slap their branding on them. And private

8:18

label goods are basically all Trader

8:19

Joe's sells now because Joe learned that

8:21

these items can be sold much cheaper

8:23

than their competitors while still

8:25

remaining profitable. They're also great

8:26

for building up brand loyalty as long as

8:28

they're of an acceptable quality. This

8:30

isn't an issue for TJ's because Old Joe

8:32

built the brand on a foundation of

8:34

quality. Quality products, quality

8:36

service, and quality of life. Now,

8:37

obviously, I've teased ruining this

8:39

man's legacy earlier in the intro, but

8:41

by all accounts, Trader Joe, the man was

8:44

a real stand-up entrepreneur. Sure, the

8:46

whole tiki appropriation thing is worth

8:48

a strong side eye, but everything I've

8:49

read about Joe points to him earnestly

8:52

wanting to nourish local communities and

8:54

celebrate international culture.

8:55

Starting in his pronto market days, he

8:57

was paying his staff higher wages than

8:59

his competitors. His thought was that he

9:01

wanted to spend his working days with

9:02

good and interesting people and quality

9:04

employees deserved quality wages. Even

9:07

as the economy shifted over the years,

9:08

he paid individual crew members

9:11

Californian family income levels. If you

9:14

worked for Joe, your family could get by

9:16

just fine on a single salary. So working

9:18

at Joe's wasn't just a job, it was a

9:21

career. This was just one example of why

9:23

Joe was the sort of guy to give his

9:24

staff and his customers everything but

9:26

the bagel. Even after he sold Trader

9:28

Joe's to Aldine or in 1979, he stayed on

9:30

as CEO until 1988, ensuring that TJ's

9:34

rare company culture remained intact as

9:36

the brand went national. Bear in mind

9:38

that National was only 19 stores at the

9:40

time, but for the most part, his

9:41

successors have continued to nurture

9:43

that community forward spirit, even as

9:45

they've expanded Joe's to the 608

9:47

locations it has today. When their third

9:49

CEO, Dan Bane, took over, he made it a

9:51

point to codify Joe's business

9:53

philosophy into seven core company

9:55

values that every crew member to this

9:57

day is trained to live by. Yes, even

9:59

Marley. I know because I quizzed him

10:01

after he tried to sell me on OG. If

10:04

you're thinking, "Hey, is indoctrinating

10:05

workers with seven abstract principles

10:07

giving lumen from severance?" I'd say

10:11

that would explain why Marley is hawking

10:13

that chunky vegan oat so hard. The man's

10:15

trying to earn himself a bio ledge

10:17

waffle party. You know what I'm saying?

10:18

But these values are where TJ's starts

10:20

to get a little culty. I mean, Bane went

10:22

on the record calling these seven values

10:25

we preach to our people. Now, I'm under

10:28

the impression that during Bane's

10:29

tenure, these were still actually mostly

10:31

wholesome. But what are these famous

10:33

values? Having integrity, being product

10:35

driven, providing wow experiences,

10:37

hating bureaucracy, treating the store

10:39

as a brand, being a national

10:41

neighborhood company, and a $5 word

10:43

known as Kaizen. Now, a lot of these are

10:45

pretty straightforward and track with

10:46

Joe Colom's original core values. When

10:48

Bane says integrity, he's talking about

10:50

treating people with respect, treating

10:51

people how you would like to be treated.

10:53

Standard golden rule stuff that aligns

10:54

with the way Joe paid his staff. Being

10:56

product driven is all about the quality

10:58

and uniqueness of their products.

11:00

Apparently, TJ's product developers

11:02

still travel all over the world to get

11:04

ideas for new offerings, and they take

11:06

their product integrity pretty

11:08

seriously, too. According to Trader

11:10

Joe's official podcast, the new item

11:11

taste test panels are highly critical.

11:14

They also seem to go overboard on the

11:16

security as to make them impossible for

11:18

suppliers to infiltrate and influence.

11:20

The one time that a photojournalist was

11:22

invited to one, the tasters all had to

11:24

keep their identities a secret under

11:26

paper bag masks on the chance that

11:29

vendors could trace the photos back and

11:31

bribe Joe's kingmakers. Creating wow

11:34

experiences is where we start to get

11:36

into murky territory with these values.

11:38

mostly because I think this is where Dan

11:40

Bane could have benefited from

11:41

consulting a dictionary for their names

11:43

rather than riffing off the top of his

11:45

head. This value is really about the

11:47

experience that turns running errands at

11:49

Trader Joe's into Jojo's bizarre

11:51

adventure. Joe's has fine-tuned the

11:53

novelty of shopping in their stores for

11:55

novelties. Yes, the discovery of

11:57

globalins inspired flavors feels like a

11:58

treasure hunt, but it goes even further

12:00

than that. TJ's is artfully engineered

12:02

to give you this experience. For

12:04

example, its freezer section holds many

12:06

of their most iconic products, from

12:08

their orange chicken to their kimbab to

12:10

their pizzas imported directly from

12:12

Italy. It's important to them that the

12:13

barrier to browsing is as low as

12:15

possible. Literally. At traditional

12:17

grocery outlets, freezer sections

12:18

require customers to open up a big old

12:20

freezer door, which means it's not as

12:22

easy to peruse as all the stores

12:24

offerings. But at Trader Joe's, the

12:26

freezers are wide open and low to the

12:28

ground. This invites customers to

12:29

impulsively add more items to their

12:31

cart. Oh, just one more beef and queso

12:33

bowl. Ooh, and those freaking feta

12:35

caramelized onion pastry bites. I can't

12:37

stop eating, but our 40 billion calories

12:39

are so delicious. Wow. Experience also

12:42

encapsulates customer service. It's why

12:44

Marley has a little bell he can ring

12:46

that summons more eager, friendly crew

12:48

members when you tell him that you can't

12:49

find the taco seasoning. It's also why

12:51

Marley won't shut up about the

12:53

incredible strawberry jalapeno crisps in

12:55

your cart, no matter how badly you want

12:56

to pay and get out of there with minimal

12:58

conversation. Employees are encouraged

13:00

to not only talk to you about the items

13:01

in your cart, but make you feel good

13:03

about having purchased them. It's like

13:04

the modern-day equivalent of a butler

13:06

saying, "hm, very good, sir." after

13:08

you've asked them to bring you a glass

13:09

of brandy in the study. They want you to

13:11

feel like a genius for selecting just

13:13

the right cheese. They know that you're

13:15

more likely to return and buy more if

13:16

you feel confident in the aftermath of

13:18

your purchase. So, even if you're just

13:20

grabbing some cold cuts and grape juice

13:21

on your lunch break, Marley is going to

13:23

make you feel like you're Batman sliding

13:25

into a well-tailored suit as he bags

13:27

your goods. Trader Joe's also claims to

13:29

hate bureaucracy, favoring relaxed vibes

13:32

and a less corporate atmosphere. They

13:34

instead prefer the Japanese business

13:35

philosophy of Kaizen. Kai meaning change

13:38

or social media manager and Zen meaning

13:40

good or for the better. To practice

13:42

Kaizen, TJ's aims to continuously change

13:45

and develop for the betterment of their

13:47

employees, customers, and communities.

13:49

This also means continuously improving

13:51

their product offerings and is the

13:52

reason why your favorite snacks

13:54

disappear forever and are replaced by

13:56

something almost as good and you're just

13:58

expected to say thank you for the

13:59

emotional growth forever in my heart.

14:01

Jos never forget. Joe's also believes

14:04

that the store itself is the brand, not

14:06

their individual products. By immersing

14:08

you in their themed decor, Hawaiian

14:10

shirts, and private label items, Trader

14:12

Joe's branding is the star of the

14:14

grocery shopping experience. They even

14:16

sell a coffee table art book dedicated

14:18

to all the bespoke art featured in their

14:20

stores. Honestly, to me, that sounds

14:22

like the most interesting gift you can

14:24

get for the least interesting person in

14:26

your life. So, that leaves us with the

14:27

last and maybe most complicated of TJ's

14:30

seven values. Being a

14:31

national/neighborhood company, no matter

14:33

how large the company grows or how many

14:35

stores they set up, each Trader Joe's

14:37

you walk into should feel like a homey

14:39

part of your community. They basically

14:40

want to be the cheers of national

14:42

grocery store chains. But instead of Sam

14:44

alone pouring you a cold bruswki after a

14:46

long day, it's Marley complimenting your

14:48

choice and frozen tikka masala before

14:50

running your debit card. This, unlike

14:51

the other golden rules, really does

14:53

sound kind of golden. But the national/

14:55

neighborhood thing is also where things

14:57

get a little dicey because TJ's doesn't

14:59

just adapt to neighborhoods. It signals

15:01

something to them. And one of the things

15:02

it signals is that property values are

15:05

going up. Multiple studies have found

15:07

that when a TJ's opens in a

15:08

neighborhood, property values increase

15:10

at an accelerated rate. A 2017 Zillow

15:12

study, for example, found that between

15:14

1997 and 2014, homes near a Trader Joe's

15:18

appreciated an average of 148%, while

15:21

the typical US home appreciated by only

15:24

71% over the same period. Even more

15:27

notable, the study analyzed store

15:29

opening dates and found that TJ's wasn't

15:31

drafting off of already hot

15:33

neighborhoods, which means there was a

15:35

causality between the opening of a TJ's

15:37

and the rise in property values. In

15:39

other words, Trader Joe's didn't follow

15:41

the money. The money followed Trader

15:43

Joe's. Somewhere out there, a real

15:44

estate agent is legally required to say

15:46

a place is within walking distance of

15:48

Trader Joe's click their heels and spin

15:50

three times before showing a listing.

15:52

Now, again, rising property values can

15:54

be a good thing, right? Sure they can.

15:58

If, and this is a big if, you already

16:00

own a home. If you're renting, get ready

16:03

for a 6% rent increase next year. And if

16:06

you're looking to buy, well, now you

16:08

have to compete with developers,

16:09

landlords, and investors who are also

16:11

eyeing that lovely house on the corner

16:13

just two blocks away from that Trader

16:15

Joe's. The problem isn't just the rent

16:17

either. Once they're in those lower

16:19

inome neighborhoods, less affluent

16:21

residents tend to not shop there as much

16:23

anyway, because TJ's doesn't have all

16:25

the necessities that people need.

16:27

Instead, all those bells and whistles

16:28

sort of foods they sell invite people of

16:30

a higher socioeconomic status to shop

16:32

there, which only increases this

16:34

perception of gentrification. Trader

16:36

Joe's may not come in and bulldoze

16:38

entire neighborhoods, but it does sort

16:40

of signal that the bulldozers are

16:42

already on their way. So, it makes sense

16:44

that some communities have pushed back

16:46

against new stores. People are right to

16:48

worry that they may get priced out of

16:49

their neighborhood as a side effect of

16:51

TJ's. And listen, the push back matters.

16:53

This is something that the company has

16:55

occasionally shown it understands. In at

16:57

least one highly publicized case, TJ's

17:00

did something that's pretty rare for a

17:01

national retail company. They walked

17:03

away from a potentially profitable

17:05

situation. In Portland, Oregon, plans to

17:07

open a TJ's in a historically black

17:09

neighborhood were met with protests from

17:11

residents who feared the store would

17:12

accelerate gentrification, causing

17:14

displacement without actually serving

17:16

the underserved people who lived there.

17:18

To their credit, Trader Joe's listened.

17:20

Rather than forcing the project through,

17:22

they abandoned it entirely and issued a

17:24

statement that was kind of refreshing.

17:26

We run neighborhood stores. If a

17:27

neighborhood doesn't want Trader Joe's,

17:29

we understand and we won't open the

17:31

store in question. But despite that one

17:34

instance, Trader Joe's's popularity is

17:36

only going up as the Seven Values bring

17:38

in more and more members into this cult.

17:41

As a business, TJ's has to grow and

17:43

expand. And as it spreads, more and more

17:45

neighborhoods will find themselves

17:47

having to fight back against Trader

17:49

Joe's. So, is TJ's a cult? Yes. But as

17:53

long as TJ's keeps listening to and

17:55

actually serving local communities

17:57

without forcing people out just because

17:59

some people can't live without their

18:01

orange chicken, they'll at least avoid

18:03

becoming Traitor Joe's for now. But hey,

18:06

that's just a theory. A food theory bro.

18:11

And hey, want to know the best way to

18:12

make hot chocolate? Make sure to click

18:13

the link on the screen now. And as

18:14

always, I'll see you next

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