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Are My Wide Leg Pants About to Look Stupid

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0:00

In 2016,

0:01

the world's premier fashion forecaster

0:03

attended a runway show where they noticed

0:04

one designer was sending pants with wider

0:06

legs down the runway more frequently than usual.

0:08

They noticed the same thing at a second show.

0:11

Within weeks, the detailed report went out

0:12

to their 6000 clients with a very clear message.

0:15

The skinny jean has peaked.

0:17

Begin transitioning

0:18

customers to looser fit.

0:20

Clothing companies

0:21

did not like this idea.

0:22

The skinny jean was the most profitable

0:24

garment in history.

0:24

It used less fabric than regular pants,

0:26

cheap elastane instead of cotton.

0:28

It had historically low returns.

0:29

People were addicted.

0:31

Refusing to kill their best product

0:33

overnight, the forecaster helped retailers engineer

0:35

a more gentle introduction

0:36

to wider legs, slowly weaning people off

0:38

tight pants with the mom Jean.

0:40

Not one, but not skin tight.

0:41

It got

0:42

everyone used to seeing some fabric away from the leg.

0:45

Oh that's different.

0:46

Conditioning everyone's

0:47

eyes and priming the massive trend

0:48

about to explode on the internet.

0:50

What's your least favorite fashion trend right now?

0:51

Skinny jeans. Skinny jeans?

0:53

The skinny jeans.

0:54

Skinny jeans are not coming back.

0:56

How I know I'm old.

0:57

I didn't know that the skinny jeans ever went out.

0:59

These people falling in love with wide leg pants.

1:02

They didn't invent wide leg pants.

1:03

They didn't show wide leg pants for themselves.

1:05

They went to stores and bought

1:06

what was available.

1:07

Looser in the hips and thigh,

1:09

mom jeans have given retailers

1:10

confidence to push wider and people to buy wider.

1:13

People made videos about them.

1:14

The videos went viral.

1:15

Retailers saw the videos and said see,

1:18

the forecast was right and ordered millions more.

1:20

How wide can we go?

1:22

Wider and wider.

1:23

Until today, where we're

1:24

in the last stage of this trend.

1:26

Ultra wide.

1:27

Once wide became normal,

1:29

the only way to signal new

1:30

was to go even wider.

1:32

This, and what follows, is a story

1:34

about the powerful force that swapped out

1:36

skinny jeans for wide leg jeans,

1:37

a force that affects

1:38

everyone but is recognized by almost

1:40

no one outside of those who know what to look for,

1:43

how prices feed into themselves, elections,

1:45

the housing market, boom bust cycles.

1:46

George Soros, one of the most powerful people

1:49

on the planet, attributes

1:50

his entire fortune to it.

1:52

It seemed random.

1:53

Oh, look at that.

1:54

Wide leg pants are in a natural switch

1:56

to a new style, but the wide leg pant

1:58

phenomenon wasn't random

2:00

at all.

2:01

This fashion forecaster

2:04

is so accurate in their calls

2:05

that every single retailer in the world is a client.

2:08

Apple, target, Zara, H&M, Ikea, Anthropologie

2:10

all the way down to the smaller brands

2:12

you've never heard of.

2:13

Sending out a major

2:14

forecast document every year that attempts

2:16

to predict what will happen three years in the future.

2:19

They correctly

2:20

predicted tactical clothing like puffy jackets

2:22

and outdoor gear would go mainstream.

2:23

A trend called Gorp Corp.

2:25

They predicted millennial

2:26

pink mid-century modern for interiors.

2:29

Wide leg pants.

2:30

Their predictions proved correct

2:31

at an incredible rate.

2:33

Do you know how hard it is to predict

2:36

how people will feel

2:37

and what they'll be into three years from today?

2:39

You can't.

2:40

This is our force at work.

2:43

Reflexivity.

2:44

When you or the company

2:45

everyone looks to for advice

2:46

on what designs will sell.

2:47

Counting every single brand that has floor space

2:49

and the ability to reach millions of people.

2:51

You can make your predictions

2:52

come true. Oh.

3:03

It's unexpected.

3:05

Decline into what?

3:07

Here's the problem.

3:07

Venture capital is reportedly

3:09

advising

3:10

companies to pull their money.

3:12

Now, don't say that.

3:13

It's going to make it worse.

3:15

That's

3:15

how you kick off a bank run.

3:18

Hey! Listen up.

3:20

I need you to drop everything you're doing

3:22

right now.

3:22

Go to the bank, pull out all of our cash.

3:24

Every dime.

3:25

There was a bank run on our bank.

3:27

I actually think it might go under.

3:30

Your bank does not have all the cash

3:31

you and its other customers have deposited

3:33

on hand right this moment.

3:34

When you give the bank cash.

3:36

They take that money and go out

3:37

and buy things that pay them interest.

3:38

Usually very stable

3:39

things like government bonds.

3:41

They are only required

3:42

to hold 10% of your cash.

3:43

The other 90%, they can do

3:45

whatever they want with it.

3:46

This is the beauty of being a bank.

3:48

People give you money and you take that money

3:50

and you can buy things that turn into more money.

3:52

We call this fractional banking,

3:53

and we do it because money

3:55

is sitting on the accounts unproductive.

3:56

Why not lend it to somebody who can use it?

3:58

And really,

3:59

what are the odds

4:00

that everybody shows up

4:01

on the same day demanding their cash?

4:03

For that to happen, customers

4:05

would have to think there's something wrong

4:06

with the bank, that their money is not safe.

4:08

If enough people thought

4:10

this and showed up at the same time,

4:11

the bank is going to have to sell some of those assets.

4:13

It bought the customer deposits.

4:15

More people try to withdraw.

4:17

More selling.

4:18

Word begins to spread.

4:19

Customers begin to panic.

4:21

Even more people try to withdraw.

4:22

Now the bank has to sell assets at whatever price

4:25

they can get as fast as they can.

4:28

A fire sale.

4:29

If the bank has to sell assets well

4:31

below what they were worth yesterday,

4:32

they're not going to have enough cash

4:33

for the unlucky people all the way

4:34

at the end of the withdrawal line.

4:36

This is a bank run.

4:37

This is how the Great Depression got started.

4:39

This is how Silicon Valley Bank went under.

4:41

This is reflexivity at work.

4:45

Where

4:46

there was nothing wrong with the bank,

4:48

it was only because people

4:49

thought something was wrong

4:50

that caused something to be wrong with the bank.

4:53

Nobody was asking for wide

4:54

leg pants

4:55

and telling companies

4:56

to make wide leg pants

4:58

cause companies

4:58

to advertise their wide leg pants,

5:00

which caused people to ask

5:01

for wide leg pants.

5:03

Or to put it in more formal terms.

5:04

A person's perception

5:06

about something changes

5:07

that changing perceptions than actually changes

5:09

the fundamentals of the thing.

5:10

The person at Urban Outfitters

5:11

responsible for buying

5:12

and scouting styles for women's

5:14

denim is the first to read

5:15

the report.

5:16

Skinny jeans are dead.

5:18

Start transitioning customers

5:20

to looser fit.

5:22

They called the manager

5:22

of the entire women's pants division.

5:24

We should run a test.

5:26

Let's do a fast

5:27

track run of wide leg styles.

5:29

Manager approves the design.

5:31

Team sketches a few wide leg styles

5:32

and sends them to factories designed

5:34

to make small batches quickly.

5:35

The 1500 pairs they get from this factory

5:37

are going to cost

5:38

a small fortune, however well they sell.

5:40

Money is going to be lost.

5:41

That's fine.

5:42

They just want to test them in.

5:43

Eight weeks later, the new styles

5:45

land at the company's big flagship stores.

5:47

We're talking New York, London,

5:48

Paris, Miami, Los Angeles,

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high sort of traffic culture hubs.

5:51

This is why all the new

5:52

seems to happen in these places.

5:54

The newest of the new, the tests.

5:55

They all start at the epicenter of foot traffic.

5:58

A massive store in Times Square.

6:00

Yeah, it's good advertising,

6:01

but it's also an excellent

6:02

lab to test things in.

6:04

Almost always losing money for the company, but

6:05

providing feedback and data

6:07

you can't get in Ohio.

6:08

Walk into any retail store.

6:10

There's the front display right inside the entrance.

6:12

This is just for show

6:13

to get you to look at the store.

6:14

Go past. Make a right turn.

6:16

This is the premier floor space.

6:18

The people want this

6:19

right now and will pay for it section.

6:21

That's not where the test goes.

6:22

It gets a couple of speed bumps.

6:24

Those displays taking up

6:25

walking space in the aisle,

6:26

speed bumps because they get you

6:28

to slow down and look,

6:29

even if you don't want to

6:31

go all the way to the back,

6:32

where most people will never make it.

6:34

Sales basics classic stuff the store doesn't think

6:36

makes a visual statement of or cool.

6:38

You should buy here.

6:39

That goes in the back third.

6:41

So do the rest of the test styles.

6:42

These tests happen

6:43

in thousands of retailers around the world.

6:45

All get the same forecast

6:47

from what had zero floor

6:49

space anywhere three months ago.

6:50

Wide leg pants now has a few percent.

6:52

Nobody came into these stores

6:54

looking for wide leg pants.

6:55

Oh, wide leg pants.

6:57

Wide leg pants. Again.

6:58

People must be wearing wide leg pants.

7:00

Let me try some on.

7:01

Conversations happen.

7:03

A few people buy them.

7:03

People see those people?

7:05

Suddenly wide leg pants are on people's mind.

7:07

Once on shelves, the two week clock starts.

7:09

If the styles sell out,

7:10

the real purchase begins.

7:12

1500 pairs

7:13

becomes hundreds of thousands.

7:15

Eight weeks to get them on

7:16

the shelves becomes six months.

7:17

The person who suggested the test looks good.

7:19

Their manager looks good.

7:21

The manager's manager looks good.

7:23

The CEO notices

7:25

if the styles don't sell out.

7:26

Nothing happens.

7:27

The person who suggested

7:29

the test says

7:30

said we should do it.

7:31

Their manager says my staff was just following

7:33

what we said.

7:34

The manager's manager

7:35

says totally fine

7:37

and is usually right.

7:38

The CEO never notified that.

7:40

It's entirely possible

7:42

people did deep down what wide leg pants.

7:44

It might have even been.

7:45

Likely the designers

7:46

sending wider leg pants down the runway

7:48

out the front of fashion, and were technically

7:50

the people who started the wide leg trend.

7:52

We did not invent this whole thing

7:54

where humans change clothing styles.

7:55

Humans have been changing

7:56

clothing styles for centuries, millennia.

7:58

We are social creatures, conditioned

7:59

to see patterns, to notice what other people

8:01

are doing, to copy or imitate.

8:03

Children aren't taught to speak.

8:04

They copy their parents.

8:05

We see somebody wearing

8:07

something we think is cool.

8:08

We think people will think

8:09

it's cool if we wear it.

8:11

Our perception that it's cool

8:12

makes it cool

8:13

or is real quick.

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Now let's get back to it.

9:24

We're ready.

9:25

What we did was

9:26

take traditional men's

9:28

work pants and rivet them.

9:30

Creating the new category of workwear,

9:33

which we today call

9:35

blue jeans.

9:36

Punch a hole through the fabric.

9:38

Insert the rivet, place the cap over the rivet post

9:40

and hammer the cap into place.

9:42

The rivet

9:43

is the true innovation

9:44

that got Levi's going,

9:46

patented in 1873.

9:47

It was 50% stronger than stitching.

9:49

By 1900 they were selling 10 million pairs per year

9:51

across the western US.

9:53

Cowboys, construction miners,

9:54

anyone who needed durability.

9:56

It wasn't until the 1920s

9:57

that they spread to the East Coast.

9:59

It wasn't until the 50s

10:01

that they started the trend

10:02

fashion, when Marlon Brando, James

10:03

Dean and Elvis Presley began wearing them.

10:05

20 more years would pass

10:07

before everyone had a pair

10:08

of jeans in their wardrobe.

10:09

That is how fashion used to spread slowly,

10:12

but cut out the part where many sellers

10:14

try a variety of ideas to see what sticks,

10:16

and instead tell them what to buy.

10:18

So everyone is carrying

10:19

at least one version of the same thing.

10:21

The feedback loop is completely removed.

10:23

You just walk in.

10:23

Oh look.

10:24

Wide leg pants in every store

10:26

must be the thing now.

10:27

Do you have a pair in 32?

10:29

But this concept of reflexivity is a spectrum.

10:32

Thinking it's going to rain and getting everyone else

10:34

to think it's going to rain will not make it rain.

10:37

Bank runs are on the other end

10:40

around in eight

10:41

traditional fashion.

10:43

Maybe around a four.

10:44

Sheehan a nine.

10:46

Being able to open an app, see something you like it,

10:49

buy for an outrageously low price and have it

10:50

delivered to your door in less than four weeks

10:52

was a huge concern for clothing companies.

10:53

It was almost a direct challenge to Wjsn.

10:56

The speed at which it spread,

10:57

how much people loved it and hated it,

10:59

the angst from those

11:00

in the more traditional clothing industry. She.

11:03

And it's huge.

11:03

It ranks number one

11:05

in worldwide online sales,

11:07

with an annual sales of about $30 billion.

11:10

It is known for dirt cheap products

11:12

created exceedingly fast.

11:14

Gen Z has pretty much gone

11:16

bananas for company.

11:17

This was all a clear indicator

11:19

that she had figured out some sort of reflexive loop.

11:22

And frankly, it's a brilliant business.

11:24

Extremely well executed.

11:25

Love it or hate it.

11:27

It was nothing short of impressive,

11:28

nor was it the overnight success.

11:30

It appeared to be. I

11:32

found it

11:33

all the way back in 2008.

11:34

The founder of the company

11:35

wasn't an expert in clothing.

11:36

He was an expert in how to structure a website.

11:38

So it ranks in the top ten on Google search.

11:40

What's called search

11:41

engine optimization?

11:42

Do it right.

11:43

And a brand didn't have to spend

11:44

any money on advertising.

11:45

This was the holy grail

11:47

of almost every business

11:49

for the past 25 years.

11:50

For those that aren't familiar with

11:51

search engine optimization,

11:52

there are tools that let you see

11:54

what words people are typing into Google

11:55

and how frequently they're being typed in.

11:57

Using those tools, you discovered

11:59

people were typing in cheap wedding dress a lot,

12:02

which caused them to notice that the websites

12:03

Google sent back to those searches

12:05

did not give people

12:06

what they were looking for.

12:07

No brand in the wedding dress business

12:09

wanted to be associated with cheap.

12:11

That word and any word associated with

12:13

it were nowhere to be found on

12:15

sites that sold wedding dresses.

12:16

She started out specifically

12:18

to target those searches coming from

12:20

the US and Europe.

12:21

Capture the traffic and arbitrage.

12:22

The difference between how cheap a wedding dress

12:24

could be made in China, and how much

12:26

it could be sold for to Western customers.

12:28

They built hundreds of sites targeting tens

12:30

of thousands of searches, coming from phrases

12:32

like cheap wedding dress,

12:34

custom wedding dress, 500

12:35

mermaid wedding dress, cheap

12:36

wedding dress on sale.

12:38

Behind those sites, they partnered

12:39

with a few dozen small clothing factories

12:41

in China that made the wedding gowns.

12:42

A wedding gown could be made

12:44

for 60 or $70 and sold for 500,

12:46

while still being considered

12:48

cheap to the buyer.

12:49

This worked incredibly well,

12:52

but there is one major,

12:53

glaring downside with the wedding gown business.

12:55

If you are not

12:56

for the art of it, with only some exceptions,

12:59

most brides will only ever

13:00

buy one wedding dress.

13:02

Repeat customers

13:03

are not a thing.

13:05

As if giving a mini preview

13:06

of what would happen ten years later.

13:08

This became a real problem.

13:10

The moment Google updated

13:11

search algorithm to penalize networks of sites

13:14

like what she was operating.

13:15

All the sites were very similar,

13:17

if not identical copies

13:18

with just a few words changed here and there.

13:20

The point of them

13:21

was to crowd everyone else out.

13:23

They all link back to one another.

13:25

Tactics right on or over

13:26

the edge of what Google said

13:28

was fair practice.

13:29

Traffic plummeted.

13:33

Oh, but

13:33

wait, wait, wait, what is this?

13:34

Is this it?

13:35

A second life?

13:40

Here's what we're going to do.

13:42

Ditch the wedding gown business.

13:43

We're going to

13:44

sell every piece of clothing someone might want to buy.

13:46

To do that, we'll need to create two.

13:48

No, 5000 styles per day.

13:50

Remember what we are doing

13:51

with all of those wedding dress sites?

13:53

Same idea.

13:54

Flood the zone. Keep

13:55

the shops that were making

13:57

wedding dresses for us.

13:58

But we're going to need to add about 400 more.

14:00

Hook them directly

14:01

to our software.

14:03

We'll give them tons of small order.

14:05

But to be part of that gravy train,

14:07

they have to tell us

14:08

how much capacity they have,

14:09

what and how much fabric they have.

14:11

Let's make sure they always make

14:13

our orders first.

14:15

We are the priority.

14:16

Pay them in seven days.

14:18

Everyone else pays them at 90.

14:19

Don't just track orders.

14:20

Track clicks, track hover.

14:22

Shares everything for each item.

14:24

The moment.

14:25

Enough data points line up.

14:26

Have the algorithm

14:27

send out an order for thousands more.

14:29

Take the human out of it.

14:31

Forget warehouses and all that back and forth.

14:33

Send everything right from the factory.

14:35

This is a system for competing with folks.

14:38

Send compiles data.

14:39

Send it to retailers.

14:41

Retailers.

14:41

Send it on to factories.

14:43

Factories.

14:43

Send it back to retailers.

14:45

Retailers then show it to customers.

14:47

Customers then can finally tell

14:49

the retailers whether they like it.

14:50

We are going to cut out this step and this step.

14:54

This will cut time down from six months

14:56

to four weeks and prices

14:57

by at least 75%.

15:00

What are you waiting for? Go!

15:03

It worked extremely well.

15:04

She and quickly became the second most valuable

15:06

apparel brand in the world,

15:08

second only to Nike.

15:09

The Wjsn reflexivity loop took months

15:11

to start working.

15:12

She took days.

15:13

No one was asking

15:14

for the thousands of styles they'd upload every day,

15:16

but get enough people looking at them.

15:18

Pick the ones with the most interest.

15:19

Get people to post about them on social media.

15:21

People's perception

15:22

about an unusual sweater could be changed

15:24

very fast.

15:25

Drive enough perception.

15:26

Drive more styles.

15:27

Drive more people to shame.

15:29

It was a beautiful reflexive loop.

15:30

Customers took notice.

15:31

Apparel companies took notice.

15:33

Designers, the media.

15:34

And then the government took notice.

15:36

Which they will do

15:37

when you're threatening an entire industry

15:39

by chartering 50 Boeing

15:41

777 per day to deliver 1 million

15:43

individually wrapped packages,

15:45

to take advantage of a customs

15:47

loophole written in 1930 that allowed packages

15:49

under $800 in value to enter the country

15:52

without all the customs and taxes

15:53

that come with everything over

15:55

$800.

15:56

It's the exact same thing

15:58

they were doing with the Google search

15:59

strategy, working in this

16:01

very gray area

16:02

like Icarus flying

16:03

too close to the sun.

16:04

There was no way that many packages

16:07

flowing through a loophole

16:08

could continue forever.

16:10

U.S. government steps in

16:11

and says enough of that

16:14

for weeks to get

16:15

orders to customers has now turned back into months.

16:17

What used to be little packages on planes

16:19

going direct to customers

16:21

is now many packages in containers

16:22

loaded onto ships for the Pacific crossing.

16:25

And just like every other retailer

16:27

unloaded into warehouses

16:28

on the West Coast,

16:29

Sheehan being forced

16:31

back down the spectrum reveals

16:32

just how critical time

16:34

is to reflexivity.

16:35

How quickly can perception

16:36

be changed, and how quickly the underlying thing

16:39

can absorb or correct for that change.

16:41

This is the difference

16:43

between an ordinary feedback loop and reflexivity.

16:45

Why bank runs happen in days or hours.

16:47

Why a political candidate doesn't

16:49

want to peak too early.

16:50

Why meme stocks go straight up

16:52

and then straight down.

16:53

Once you know what to

16:54

look for, you see it

16:55

everywhere.

16:57

All right, we're done. Cut.

17:00

Actually, I got a few

17:01

things I want to leave on the table.

17:02

Because while they didn't make the cut

17:04

for a variety of reasons,

17:05

they're very fun to think about.

17:06

First, berries paint color of

17:08

the year is already teal.

17:10

Color of

17:11

the year is transformative.

17:12

Teal.

17:13

Teal like that

17:14

was spontaneous.

17:16

Second, there's game theory at play

17:17

amongst the buyers who read the report.

17:20

You could look at their situation

17:21

as a reverse prisoner's dilemma or stag hunt,

17:24

where if they all follow what's in the report,

17:26

reflexivity increases

17:27

and they all win.

17:29

And they all must know this.

17:30

Third, social media

17:32

has dramatically cut the time it used to take to

17:34

change perception systems

17:36

built before social media,

17:37

or without that in mind,

17:38

are naturally more fragile

17:40

than systems built to harness it.

17:42

That's it.

17:43

I will see you in the next video.

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