Are My Wide Leg Pants About to Look Stupid
FULL TRANSCRIPT
In 2016,
the world's premier fashion forecaster
attended a runway show where they noticed
one designer was sending pants with wider
legs down the runway more frequently than usual.
They noticed the same thing at a second show.
Within weeks, the detailed report went out
to their 6000 clients with a very clear message.
The skinny jean has peaked.
Begin transitioning
customers to looser fit.
Clothing companies
did not like this idea.
The skinny jean was the most profitable
garment in history.
It used less fabric than regular pants,
cheap elastane instead of cotton.
It had historically low returns.
People were addicted.
Refusing to kill their best product
overnight, the forecaster helped retailers engineer
a more gentle introduction
to wider legs, slowly weaning people off
tight pants with the mom Jean.
Not one, but not skin tight.
It got
everyone used to seeing some fabric away from the leg.
Oh that's different.
Conditioning everyone's
eyes and priming the massive trend
about to explode on the internet.
What's your least favorite fashion trend right now?
Skinny jeans. Skinny jeans?
The skinny jeans.
Skinny jeans are not coming back.
How I know I'm old.
I didn't know that the skinny jeans ever went out.
These people falling in love with wide leg pants.
They didn't invent wide leg pants.
They didn't show wide leg pants for themselves.
They went to stores and bought
what was available.
Looser in the hips and thigh,
mom jeans have given retailers
confidence to push wider and people to buy wider.
People made videos about them.
The videos went viral.
Retailers saw the videos and said see,
the forecast was right and ordered millions more.
How wide can we go?
Wider and wider.
Until today, where we're
in the last stage of this trend.
Ultra wide.
Once wide became normal,
the only way to signal new
was to go even wider.
This, and what follows, is a story
about the powerful force that swapped out
skinny jeans for wide leg jeans,
a force that affects
everyone but is recognized by almost
no one outside of those who know what to look for,
how prices feed into themselves, elections,
the housing market, boom bust cycles.
George Soros, one of the most powerful people
on the planet, attributes
his entire fortune to it.
It seemed random.
Oh, look at that.
Wide leg pants are in a natural switch
to a new style, but the wide leg pant
phenomenon wasn't random
at all.
This fashion forecaster
is so accurate in their calls
that every single retailer in the world is a client.
Apple, target, Zara, H&M, Ikea, Anthropologie
all the way down to the smaller brands
you've never heard of.
Sending out a major
forecast document every year that attempts
to predict what will happen three years in the future.
They correctly
predicted tactical clothing like puffy jackets
and outdoor gear would go mainstream.
A trend called Gorp Corp.
They predicted millennial
pink mid-century modern for interiors.
Wide leg pants.
Their predictions proved correct
at an incredible rate.
Do you know how hard it is to predict
how people will feel
and what they'll be into three years from today?
You can't.
This is our force at work.
Reflexivity.
When you or the company
everyone looks to for advice
on what designs will sell.
Counting every single brand that has floor space
and the ability to reach millions of people.
You can make your predictions
come true. Oh.
It's unexpected.
Decline into what?
Here's the problem.
Venture capital is reportedly
advising
companies to pull their money.
Now, don't say that.
It's going to make it worse.
That's
how you kick off a bank run.
Hey! Listen up.
I need you to drop everything you're doing
right now.
Go to the bank, pull out all of our cash.
Every dime.
There was a bank run on our bank.
I actually think it might go under.
Your bank does not have all the cash
you and its other customers have deposited
on hand right this moment.
When you give the bank cash.
They take that money and go out
and buy things that pay them interest.
Usually very stable
things like government bonds.
They are only required
to hold 10% of your cash.
The other 90%, they can do
whatever they want with it.
This is the beauty of being a bank.
People give you money and you take that money
and you can buy things that turn into more money.
We call this fractional banking,
and we do it because money
is sitting on the accounts unproductive.
Why not lend it to somebody who can use it?
And really,
what are the odds
that everybody shows up
on the same day demanding their cash?
For that to happen, customers
would have to think there's something wrong
with the bank, that their money is not safe.
If enough people thought
this and showed up at the same time,
the bank is going to have to sell some of those assets.
It bought the customer deposits.
More people try to withdraw.
More selling.
Word begins to spread.
Customers begin to panic.
Even more people try to withdraw.
Now the bank has to sell assets at whatever price
they can get as fast as they can.
A fire sale.
If the bank has to sell assets well
below what they were worth yesterday,
they're not going to have enough cash
for the unlucky people all the way
at the end of the withdrawal line.
This is a bank run.
This is how the Great Depression got started.
This is how Silicon Valley Bank went under.
This is reflexivity at work.
Where
there was nothing wrong with the bank,
it was only because people
thought something was wrong
that caused something to be wrong with the bank.
Nobody was asking for wide
leg pants
and telling companies
to make wide leg pants
cause companies
to advertise their wide leg pants,
which caused people to ask
for wide leg pants.
Or to put it in more formal terms.
A person's perception
about something changes
that changing perceptions than actually changes
the fundamentals of the thing.
The person at Urban Outfitters
responsible for buying
and scouting styles for women's
denim is the first to read
the report.
Skinny jeans are dead.
Start transitioning customers
to looser fit.
They called the manager
of the entire women's pants division.
We should run a test.
Let's do a fast
track run of wide leg styles.
Manager approves the design.
Team sketches a few wide leg styles
and sends them to factories designed
to make small batches quickly.
The 1500 pairs they get from this factory
are going to cost
a small fortune, however well they sell.
Money is going to be lost.
That's fine.
They just want to test them in.
Eight weeks later, the new styles
land at the company's big flagship stores.
We're talking New York, London,
Paris, Miami, Los Angeles,
high sort of traffic culture hubs.
This is why all the new
seems to happen in these places.
The newest of the new, the tests.
They all start at the epicenter of foot traffic.
A massive store in Times Square.
Yeah, it's good advertising,
but it's also an excellent
lab to test things in.
Almost always losing money for the company, but
providing feedback and data
you can't get in Ohio.
Walk into any retail store.
There's the front display right inside the entrance.
This is just for show
to get you to look at the store.
Go past. Make a right turn.
This is the premier floor space.
The people want this
right now and will pay for it section.
That's not where the test goes.
It gets a couple of speed bumps.
Those displays taking up
walking space in the aisle,
speed bumps because they get you
to slow down and look,
even if you don't want to
go all the way to the back,
where most people will never make it.
Sales basics classic stuff the store doesn't think
makes a visual statement of or cool.
You should buy here.
That goes in the back third.
So do the rest of the test styles.
These tests happen
in thousands of retailers around the world.
All get the same forecast
from what had zero floor
space anywhere three months ago.
Wide leg pants now has a few percent.
Nobody came into these stores
looking for wide leg pants.
Oh, wide leg pants.
Wide leg pants. Again.
People must be wearing wide leg pants.
Let me try some on.
Conversations happen.
A few people buy them.
People see those people?
Suddenly wide leg pants are on people's mind.
Once on shelves, the two week clock starts.
If the styles sell out,
the real purchase begins.
1500 pairs
becomes hundreds of thousands.
Eight weeks to get them on
the shelves becomes six months.
The person who suggested the test looks good.
Their manager looks good.
The manager's manager looks good.
The CEO notices
if the styles don't sell out.
Nothing happens.
The person who suggested
the test says
said we should do it.
Their manager says my staff was just following
what we said.
The manager's manager
says totally fine
and is usually right.
The CEO never notified that.
It's entirely possible
people did deep down what wide leg pants.
It might have even been.
Likely the designers
sending wider leg pants down the runway
out the front of fashion, and were technically
the people who started the wide leg trend.
We did not invent this whole thing
where humans change clothing styles.
Humans have been changing
clothing styles for centuries, millennia.
We are social creatures, conditioned
to see patterns, to notice what other people
are doing, to copy or imitate.
Children aren't taught to speak.
They copy their parents.
We see somebody wearing
something we think is cool.
We think people will think
it's cool if we wear it.
Our perception that it's cool
makes it cool
or is real quick.
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Now let's get back to it.
We're ready.
What we did was
take traditional men's
work pants and rivet them.
Creating the new category of workwear,
which we today call
blue jeans.
Punch a hole through the fabric.
Insert the rivet, place the cap over the rivet post
and hammer the cap into place.
The rivet
is the true innovation
that got Levi's going,
patented in 1873.
It was 50% stronger than stitching.
By 1900 they were selling 10 million pairs per year
across the western US.
Cowboys, construction miners,
anyone who needed durability.
It wasn't until the 1920s
that they spread to the East Coast.
It wasn't until the 50s
that they started the trend
fashion, when Marlon Brando, James
Dean and Elvis Presley began wearing them.
20 more years would pass
before everyone had a pair
of jeans in their wardrobe.
That is how fashion used to spread slowly,
but cut out the part where many sellers
try a variety of ideas to see what sticks,
and instead tell them what to buy.
So everyone is carrying
at least one version of the same thing.
The feedback loop is completely removed.
You just walk in.
Oh look.
Wide leg pants in every store
must be the thing now.
Do you have a pair in 32?
But this concept of reflexivity is a spectrum.
Thinking it's going to rain and getting everyone else
to think it's going to rain will not make it rain.
Bank runs are on the other end
around in eight
traditional fashion.
Maybe around a four.
Sheehan a nine.
Being able to open an app, see something you like it,
buy for an outrageously low price and have it
delivered to your door in less than four weeks
was a huge concern for clothing companies.
It was almost a direct challenge to Wjsn.
The speed at which it spread,
how much people loved it and hated it,
the angst from those
in the more traditional clothing industry. She.
And it's huge.
It ranks number one
in worldwide online sales,
with an annual sales of about $30 billion.
It is known for dirt cheap products
created exceedingly fast.
Gen Z has pretty much gone
bananas for company.
This was all a clear indicator
that she had figured out some sort of reflexive loop.
And frankly, it's a brilliant business.
Extremely well executed.
Love it or hate it.
It was nothing short of impressive,
nor was it the overnight success.
It appeared to be. I
found it
all the way back in 2008.
The founder of the company
wasn't an expert in clothing.
He was an expert in how to structure a website.
So it ranks in the top ten on Google search.
What's called search
engine optimization?
Do it right.
And a brand didn't have to spend
any money on advertising.
This was the holy grail
of almost every business
for the past 25 years.
For those that aren't familiar with
search engine optimization,
there are tools that let you see
what words people are typing into Google
and how frequently they're being typed in.
Using those tools, you discovered
people were typing in cheap wedding dress a lot,
which caused them to notice that the websites
Google sent back to those searches
did not give people
what they were looking for.
No brand in the wedding dress business
wanted to be associated with cheap.
That word and any word associated with
it were nowhere to be found on
sites that sold wedding dresses.
She started out specifically
to target those searches coming from
the US and Europe.
Capture the traffic and arbitrage.
The difference between how cheap a wedding dress
could be made in China, and how much
it could be sold for to Western customers.
They built hundreds of sites targeting tens
of thousands of searches, coming from phrases
like cheap wedding dress,
custom wedding dress, 500
mermaid wedding dress, cheap
wedding dress on sale.
Behind those sites, they partnered
with a few dozen small clothing factories
in China that made the wedding gowns.
A wedding gown could be made
for 60 or $70 and sold for 500,
while still being considered
cheap to the buyer.
This worked incredibly well,
but there is one major,
glaring downside with the wedding gown business.
If you are not
for the art of it, with only some exceptions,
most brides will only ever
buy one wedding dress.
Repeat customers
are not a thing.
As if giving a mini preview
of what would happen ten years later.
This became a real problem.
The moment Google updated
search algorithm to penalize networks of sites
like what she was operating.
All the sites were very similar,
if not identical copies
with just a few words changed here and there.
The point of them
was to crowd everyone else out.
They all link back to one another.
Tactics right on or over
the edge of what Google said
was fair practice.
Traffic plummeted.
Oh, but
wait, wait, wait, what is this?
Is this it?
A second life?
Here's what we're going to do.
Ditch the wedding gown business.
We're going to
sell every piece of clothing someone might want to buy.
To do that, we'll need to create two.
No, 5000 styles per day.
Remember what we are doing
with all of those wedding dress sites?
Same idea.
Flood the zone. Keep
the shops that were making
wedding dresses for us.
But we're going to need to add about 400 more.
Hook them directly
to our software.
We'll give them tons of small order.
But to be part of that gravy train,
they have to tell us
how much capacity they have,
what and how much fabric they have.
Let's make sure they always make
our orders first.
We are the priority.
Pay them in seven days.
Everyone else pays them at 90.
Don't just track orders.
Track clicks, track hover.
Shares everything for each item.
The moment.
Enough data points line up.
Have the algorithm
send out an order for thousands more.
Take the human out of it.
Forget warehouses and all that back and forth.
Send everything right from the factory.
This is a system for competing with folks.
Send compiles data.
Send it to retailers.
Retailers.
Send it on to factories.
Factories.
Send it back to retailers.
Retailers then show it to customers.
Customers then can finally tell
the retailers whether they like it.
We are going to cut out this step and this step.
This will cut time down from six months
to four weeks and prices
by at least 75%.
What are you waiting for? Go!
It worked extremely well.
She and quickly became the second most valuable
apparel brand in the world,
second only to Nike.
The Wjsn reflexivity loop took months
to start working.
She took days.
No one was asking
for the thousands of styles they'd upload every day,
but get enough people looking at them.
Pick the ones with the most interest.
Get people to post about them on social media.
People's perception
about an unusual sweater could be changed
very fast.
Drive enough perception.
Drive more styles.
Drive more people to shame.
It was a beautiful reflexive loop.
Customers took notice.
Apparel companies took notice.
Designers, the media.
And then the government took notice.
Which they will do
when you're threatening an entire industry
by chartering 50 Boeing
777 per day to deliver 1 million
individually wrapped packages,
to take advantage of a customs
loophole written in 1930 that allowed packages
under $800 in value to enter the country
without all the customs and taxes
that come with everything over
$800.
It's the exact same thing
they were doing with the Google search
strategy, working in this
very gray area
like Icarus flying
too close to the sun.
There was no way that many packages
flowing through a loophole
could continue forever.
U.S. government steps in
and says enough of that
for weeks to get
orders to customers has now turned back into months.
What used to be little packages on planes
going direct to customers
is now many packages in containers
loaded onto ships for the Pacific crossing.
And just like every other retailer
unloaded into warehouses
on the West Coast,
Sheehan being forced
back down the spectrum reveals
just how critical time
is to reflexivity.
How quickly can perception
be changed, and how quickly the underlying thing
can absorb or correct for that change.
This is the difference
between an ordinary feedback loop and reflexivity.
Why bank runs happen in days or hours.
Why a political candidate doesn't
want to peak too early.
Why meme stocks go straight up
and then straight down.
Once you know what to
look for, you see it
everywhere.
All right, we're done. Cut.
Actually, I got a few
things I want to leave on the table.
Because while they didn't make the cut
for a variety of reasons,
they're very fun to think about.
First, berries paint color of
the year is already teal.
Color of
the year is transformative.
Teal.
Teal like that
was spontaneous.
Second, there's game theory at play
amongst the buyers who read the report.
You could look at their situation
as a reverse prisoner's dilemma or stag hunt,
where if they all follow what's in the report,
reflexivity increases
and they all win.
And they all must know this.
Third, social media
has dramatically cut the time it used to take to
change perception systems
built before social media,
or without that in mind,
are naturally more fragile
than systems built to harness it.
That's it.
I will see you in the next video.
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