Buffing Wheel Kit Chestnut Products Finishing School 6

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hi I'm Terry smart from chestnut products and today we'd like to talk

about our buffing wheel kit this is it here this is the box that it all comes

in so we'll slide it out of there and see what we can come up with

so you open up the box and the first thing that comes out is the instruction

leaflet I wrote this so it does make some sort of sense so please put it to

one side keep hold of it and do refer to it it's a great little aide memoire on

what you should be doing next we have the C wheel comes out all the wheels are

labeled and marked so you know exactly which ones which and it tells you on

there which compound of which wax to use with them they're all they board comes

fully assembled has the bolts and they're all ready to let to mount on the

lathe so you're ready to go next out comes the B wheel again fully labeled

and marked up ready to go and finally we have the a wheel this one here they're

all slightly different cotton grades and so they coordinated to work with the

various compounds that come with the kids then we get down to the bottom of

the kit and they can see all neatly held together in the polystyrene tray various

items and the most important one this one here the large mandrel and that's

what holds the wheels into the Chuck these are made in the UK and they're

zinc plated as well so they should last pretty much forever

yeah only reason you should need to buy another one of these is if you lose it

when it comes in the kit it does have a little cap on there just to protect the

thread you can take that off keep it throw it away doesn't really

matter also in the kit you have the brown white compound so these are the

cutting compounds that you use with the Amb will and these are what pair the

would get it as smooth as possible ready for the final buffing with the C wheel

and when you use the C wheel you'll use the carnuba stick on there

again this comes in the kit and it's completely ready to go they're finally

in the kit you get a small version of the mandrel now this is designed to fit

into a Jacob's Chuck so you can still use it on the lathe if you want or you

can use on a hand drill particularly useful perhaps using a pillow drill as

well or if you want to mount one of the done buffs into a hand drill

now is important to note that the buffing your system is a Chuck based

system we will need a chuck to hold the mandrel on the lathe the mandrel step to

18 and 25 mil so either section can be inserted into the chuck long as you've

got a firm grip on there that's absolutely fine if you hold it on the 18

millisecond you get a longer extension away from the chuck gives you more room

to work with so that just pops into the center of the Chuck there tighten the

Chuck up and we should be ready to go if everything is working right it should

self Center but if you're having trouble with it just bring up a live Center

there we go into the into the countersunk hole before you do the final

squeeze to time it up and if you do that try to remember to keep the live sense

of well away from you because they hurt when you catch your hand on them so

we're now ready to put the first wheel in so this is the a wheel again and I'm

using the wheels from my demo kit as you see use these a few times and they do

take the running shape after a little while if you are using a brand new wheel

just be prepared for it to show some loose Cotton's the first couple times

you use it that's perfectly normal nothing to worry about so the the wheel

just screws into the mandrel like that avoid the temptation of starting the

lave up to help the the wheel screw into the mandrel because if you do that it

can grip on there it can grab it and it can't get locked tight and it's very

very difficult to get out afterwards so just hand tight is perfectly suitable as

it says on the front of the label there on the first bill we use compound one

the brown compound that's this one here already loaded this one up a little bit

speed wise I normally have the lathe running around about 1100 rpm I feel

comfortable at that speed with it and it does the job perfectly well for

me you can't go up to 1,500 rpm the wheels are rated for that speed but

anything upwards of 600 rpm will do the job I'll show you that bit in the moon a

so saw the lathe now he just load the compound on so

[Music] now when you do that resist the

temptation to put the edge of the compound against the wheel if you do

that it will sharpen it to the point and then when you put that point on the

wheel it will just crumble away and be wasted

we always work in the bottom quarter of the wheel that's the safest place to do

it and just in case you do happen to let go of the bowl it's gonna fly away from

you rather than towards here and we just try to bring the bowl up to the wheel

I start the buffing process

keep it moving

and what we're doing here is mainly about preparation it's important also to

note that the buffing system is designed to be used on a coating it's not really

for bare wood now this piece has had finishing oil on it but you can use it

quite happily with any of the lacquers most of the oils and even just over

cellulose sanding sealer will buff that quite happily

so stop the lathe and you can see there that's the first part of the process

done but a nice shine starting to grow there Stowe wax on there that's just

because we smooth the woods down so much we're getting a nice bright finish from

our we now ready to start using the second wheel so we'll whisk the first

one off and on goes the B wheel again all marked up so you know exactly which

one you use it same process again which that on and we're ready to go now with a

B wheel we use the white compound now some people refer to this as white

diamond and this cuts back at an even finer level so it gives an ultra fine

finish to the surface your timber and it also does the job of removing any of the

brown bloom that may have been left over from when you first put on the other

compound one really important with this one you don't need too much of this if

you put too much on the wheel it will smear over the surface if you would and

it's an absolute nightmare to get rid of you'll get there in the end but

prevention is so much better than cure so still running at the same speed all I

put on is and that's plenty you can of course add

more if you feel you need to as you go through but generally speaking fairly

early more than enough and we repeat the process again still in the bottom

quarter of the wheel

are they by full round surface

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now all the wheels in our range are unstitched and that means you can if you

want to turn the speed down I said anything up is about 600 rpm is

absolutely fine by turning the speed down the wheel

would deform more so if you've got a more intricate shape it will adapt

itself to the shape of whatever you're working with it also means there's less

pressure so you've got a thin-walled item you want to be pressing against it

quite so much you also won't be generating so much heat so that will

protects what you're working on takes a little bit longer of course but it still

does the job extremely well turn the speed back up and we got really inside

the B wheel off and put the cereal on [Music]

now I mentioned earlier that all of the the cloth grades and the wheels slightly

different and this is particularly noticeable with the C wheel it's a much

softer cleaner carton and this is the one that does the buffing now in the kit

you get a stick of the carnuba wax and that's what I'm going to use on here but

you can also use the microcrystalline wax neither the stick or the paste form

so we go through the process again load up the wheel with a carnuba stick

you don't need too much office but you can't really overdo it

and then we just did the process one last time

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we work your way all the way around the bowel

and that's the job done so if you're a lovely thin layer of the

carnuba thwacks they're giving us a high degree of protection without being a

thick plasticky looking finish now if you were using the micro crystalline wax

which is perfectly acceptable you'd put the wax onto the bowl first leave it

about 15 minutes to dry and then buff it up using the C wheel you can use the

same C wheel for the micro crystalline wax as you do for the carnauba stick

their friends they don't mind sharing so hope you've enjoyed that hope also that

you're going to like and subscribe to our Channel and come back and see us

again thanks very much

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