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Polishing & Buffing Wheels Guide

12m 38s2,436 words328 segmentsEnglish

FULL TRANSCRIPT

0:01

[Music]

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hi Mark here with Rio Grande in this

0:08

video I'm going to talk about the

0:09

different Buffs that we carry and

0:12

there's a huge variety of different

0:13

types and I'm going to try and help

0:15

explain what each is best used for and

0:18

um as you can see we have a large

0:20

variety of different Buffs uh ranging in

0:23

different sizes colors and materials and

0:25

things like that uh the most common

0:27

diameters are going to be your 6 in 3in

0:29

and 4 in and they do come in a 5 in or 8

0:33

in and some um some larger sizes are

0:36

available as well now which size of

0:39

diameter wheel you use is often dictated

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to you by the machine that you're using

0:43

some of the little smaller bench laads

0:45

can only use a 3in buff like this right

0:47

here um the larger machines the

0:49

polishing cabinets and things like that

0:51

they can go um typically 6 in um and

0:55

larger but you have to check with your

0:56

machine to see what diameter you can use

0:59

they also come in a bunch of different

1:00

thicknesses called PES U common PES are

1:04

30 ply 45 ply 50 ply and 60 ply and as

1:08

you can see this is a 30 ply but it's a

1:12

really fluffy material so it's pretty

1:14

thick versus a 50 ply here with a

1:17

thinner material and it's a little bit

1:19

thinner than the 30 ply but that will

1:21

give you kind of an indication on the

1:22

width of the

1:24

wheel they also come in a razor thin

1:26

Edge uh it's really great for getting in

1:28

those really tight little places

1:30

some will have a leather Center and some

1:33

will have say like a shellac Center both

1:36

are great uh which one you use kind of

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comes down to personal preference a

1:39

little bit the leather Center is a

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little softer a little more Supple so

1:43

it'll ride up higher on the spindle than

1:45

the

1:47

shellac so I'm going to um be

1:49

demonstrating some polishing techniques

1:51

and I'll do that over here on this uh

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durable direct flow system which is

1:55

really great because it has a

1:57

self-contained box here that's going to

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help keep all the dust down and away

2:00

from me there's a port in the back uh

2:03

where the fan will pull the dust and

2:06

debris into the filters down below so

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it's very very safe I'll be lowering the

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lid this will help contain the dust as

2:13

well and also keep anything that comes

2:14

flying out of my hands um from hitting

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me in the face and my hands will go in

2:19

through these ports right here these

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little holes they're again keeping the

2:23

dust really really under control which

2:24

is really nice so next up is um how to

2:28

decide what buff to use for the first

2:29

step

2:34

steps so this is our first stage um we

2:38

have a we have a piece that we need to

2:39

polish and get that process started with

2:41

so which one do you start with well

2:44

right here I have two different examples

2:46

I have a silver ring that I've cast and

2:49

um I've done some pre-filing work I

2:51

filed off the nub and things like that

2:54

just kind of Tred up ready for that

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first polishing stage um so I have a lot

2:59

of deep scratches I need to get rid of

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and I want to do that fairly quickly so

3:02

I'm going to use a cut down process this

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is going to be with a uh pre-treated

3:07

buff and also bobbing compound uh the

3:11

these two work really well together um

3:13

the pre-treated cloth Buffs are very

3:16

rigid very stiff and the chemical that's

3:19

in here was it going to help retain that

3:20

compound longer and allow it to cut that

3:23

ring faster one of the great things

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about these stitched Buffs is that as

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you use them uh they're going to get

3:30

really stiff if you can see right here

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this is much stiffer than it came

3:35

previously because this all wears down

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so what you can do is you can actually

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remove the stitching when it gets to be

3:41

too stiff just take a knife and kind

3:43

of pluck that up a little bit and you

3:47

got to do both sides and you can pull a

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string out like

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that and that'll open up a whole new

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layer um for you to keep on using now it

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will be soft

4:00

so some applications if you wanted a

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really stiff buff you would keep that

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there um if you want a little bit softer

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then you can remove it but the cool

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thing is you can just peel that apart

4:10

kind of work it Loose a little bit and

4:12

now you're back to a softer buff so and

4:14

you can do that on all the different

4:15

Stitch Buffs not just the yellow

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pre-treated

4:19

ones so I'm going to do is I'm going to

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take uh the wheel here and my ring and

4:23

some bobbing compound and take it to the

4:25

buffer and go ahead and buff this

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up

4:31

so what I'm doing right now is I'm

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applying the bobbing compound to the

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buff and I'm going to go ahead and start

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polishing the ring with this cut down uh

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the yellow pre-treated buff in the

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bobbing compound and um going ahead and

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start get these big scratches out right

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away I'm applying like a medium to light

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pressure um on this if I this is a

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silver ring and if I push down real hard

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it's going to get warm really fast and

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it's already starting to heat up one

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thing I could do is use a finger

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protection like uh alligator tape or a

5:01

finger guard something like that and

5:03

that'll help kind of cut down the heat a

5:04

little bit so I've got most of the um uh

5:07

big scratches out it's ready for the

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next stage which is going to be the

5:10

pre-polish stage so I'm about ready to

5:13

take this to the sink and clean it up

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get the compound off and go on to the

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next

5:22

stage now we finished our first stage

5:25

which is a cut down stage it's very

5:26

aggressive it's going to remove a lot of

5:28

the deeper scratches and things like

5:29

that it actually can reshape them met a

5:31

little bit so just be careful of of hard

5:33

edges that you want to keep because

5:34

it'll take them right out uh the next

5:37

stage is called the pre-polish stage um

5:39

this actually could be used as your

5:41

first stage for example I've switched

5:44

over here to these copper discs I've

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slightly domed and uh one has a file

5:48

texture on there and the other one is

5:50

just a natural raw material um just as

5:53

it came out of the dapping block kind of

5:55

finish so it has that kind of little

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rough natural material finish on there

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the this would be a great starting stage

6:01

um for the pre-polish pre-polish is

6:04

going to can use a u pre-treated u buff

6:07

the yellow one that we used or can use

6:09

this tight weave muslin buff which is

6:11

another good one it's a little more

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flexible than the yellow buff um so it

6:16

can handle this Dome type shape really

6:18

nicely it's going to be contoured to the

6:19

shape and things like that you can also

6:22

use um compounds like Zam which is a cut

6:25

and polish material another good one is

6:28

fabul luster um Luxy blue is another

6:31

good compound to use for this stage so

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what I'll do is I'll take um I'll take

6:35

this file textured copper piece over to

6:37

the buffer uh with my my buff and uh go

6:40

ahead and polish that before I do that

6:42

though I would want to call out that

6:44

whatever buff you're using you want to

6:46

label that with the compound that you're

6:47

using on there it's really not a good

6:49

idea to use this both for bobbing

6:51

compound which is very aggressive um and

6:54

Zam because you'll never get a really

6:56

nice finish on there that way so always

6:58

make sure that your Buffs are marked

6:59

with the compound that they're going to

7:01

be used with so I'm going to head over

7:02

to the buffer and and get this

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[Music]

7:12

done so uh what I'm doing right now is

7:15

I'm going ahead and apply the Zam

7:16

compound to the wheel get a nice good

7:18

coating on there and now I'm going to go

7:20

ahead and start buffing and uh I want to

7:23

buff in all kinds of different

7:24

directions here and get a nice nice

7:27

finish on there have it goes by really

7:29

fast and so just going to kind of keep

7:32

an eye on it and uh it will warm up a

7:34

little bit but it's not too bad so I got

7:37

a nice finish on there and uh I'll go

7:40

ahead and take this to the sink and go

7:41

ahead and wash off the compound uh so

7:43

it's ready for the next stage the final

7:45

polish

7:50

stage we finished our our pre-polish

7:53

stage and now we're ready to put go to

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the final stage which is the high polish

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um final polish stage this is when we're

7:59

going to really bring out the shine in

8:00

the object and um there's a bunch of

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different Buffs that can actually do the

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really good job of doing that um to go

8:06

through them kind of briefly uh we have

8:08

the coarse loose weave muslin buff a

8:12

little bit like the tight weave muslin

8:14

but it has a looser weave to it and uh

8:17

fewer stitching around the diameter so

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it's going to be softer on the surface

8:21

and much more flexible so it conform to

8:23

the surface a little bit better uh much

8:26

better for your high polishing compounds

8:29

we also have the um fine all buff right

8:32

here they're again very similar to the

8:34

loose coar weave muslin uh but with no

8:37

stitching so it's very very flexible and

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um you can really conform to the shapes

8:42

really very

8:43

nicely and similar to that is the

8:46

balloon cloth buff right here U same

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kind of construction but this one

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actually made with balloon cloth one of

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the advantages to this is it does lint

8:54

less than the muslin and the flannel uh

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Buffs um which is really nice and it

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does a beautiful finish on there we also

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have the flannel buff and uh it's very

9:07

very soft and supple they very very fine

9:11

threads on the surface now this will

9:12

lent quite a bit as you're using it and

9:14

that's totally

9:15

normal so what you're going to have to

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end up doing is probably it'll shrink in

9:19

diameter over time and you'll have to

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end up cutting the threads and kind of

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keep so you can keep using this buff but

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because of the really soft threads up

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here you're going to get a very nice

9:28

finish on your piece

9:30

we also have a shammy buff uh this is

9:32

made from really fine Supple leather and

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um really conforms to the surface of

9:37

your piece really nicely it doesn't lint

9:40

in much in really the same way as the

9:43

muslin does um it does discharge a kind

9:45

of debris but it's not the same as the

9:47

kind of lint um leaves a really

9:50

beautiful finish it's a little bit

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slightly different than the other Buffs

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um so it's definitely worth trying out

9:54

and seeing if you like it so what I'm

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going to do is I'm going to take that uh

9:58

copper disc I was working on earlier

10:00

with the last stage I've washed it made

10:02

sure there's none of the Zam on here and

10:05

I I left some of the file marks on here

10:07

to see what our buff and compound will

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do to those scratches maybe it'll take

10:11

them out maybe it won't so I'm going to

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give it a shot with the

10:15

um flannel buff right here and the luxie

10:19

fine white Polishing Compound so I'm

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going to take this to the buffer and get

10:22

it set up and we'll polish this

10:28

up

10:32

so what I'm doing right now is I'm

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applying the luxi compound to the buff

10:37

getting a nice coating on there and then

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I'm going to start polishing the copper

10:41

discs and I'm going to start on the part

10:44

that's nicely polished and see where

10:45

that's going and then I'm going to see

10:48

what this compound and buff will do to

10:51

the file

10:52

marks it's doing a job it's kind of

10:55

taking them out a little bit but I think

10:58

the pre-polish stage really helped me

11:01

and that's coming out really nice so I'm

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going to go ahead and do is finish this

11:05

up and um what I'm done is I'll go ahead

11:07

and clean the compound off and uh I'll

11:09

be done with my my polishing so I um

11:12

finished up that final polish stage I

11:14

went ahead and cleaned out the compound

11:15

off and I kind of wanted to show you

11:17

guys the differences between the

11:18

pre-polish stage and how that affected

11:21

the piece and also the part that it did

11:23

not so if you look right here right

11:26

there it's very smooth there's no little

11:28

scratches or anything like that and

11:30

that's the side that I did the

11:31

pre-polish on and then if I turn it

11:33

around you can see this part where I

11:35

didn't so there's still some scratches

11:37

left that's when it really would have

11:38

paid off to do that pre-polish stage um

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because in order to get that out with

11:43

the flannel buff and the Luxy white

11:46

would have taken a lot more time so

11:48

sometimes taking a lot of Little Steps

11:49

will get you to the Finish Line faster

11:51

than taking one big huge step with just

11:53

one buff in one compound so there's a

11:56

lot of different Buffs to choose from we

11:59

you know from pre-treated all the way to

12:00

the shammy and uh there's no reason why

12:03

you couldn't use perhaps the tight weave

12:05

muslin buff with the Luxy fine white

12:07

that's going to give you a different

12:08

finish and different results um what you

12:12

might notice though is that final

12:14

polishing compounds on the treated cloth

12:17

and maybe not work so much I hope this

12:19

is of some help if you have any

12:21

questions give us a call at800 545

12:24

6566 or visit us on the website at r

12:27

grande.com

12:29

[Music]

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