Polishing & Buffing Wheels Guide
FULL TRANSCRIPT
[Music]
hi Mark here with Rio Grande in this
video I'm going to talk about the
different Buffs that we carry and
there's a huge variety of different
types and I'm going to try and help
explain what each is best used for and
um as you can see we have a large
variety of different Buffs uh ranging in
different sizes colors and materials and
things like that uh the most common
diameters are going to be your 6 in 3in
and 4 in and they do come in a 5 in or 8
in and some um some larger sizes are
available as well now which size of
diameter wheel you use is often dictated
to you by the machine that you're using
some of the little smaller bench laads
can only use a 3in buff like this right
here um the larger machines the
polishing cabinets and things like that
they can go um typically 6 in um and
larger but you have to check with your
machine to see what diameter you can use
they also come in a bunch of different
thicknesses called PES U common PES are
30 ply 45 ply 50 ply and 60 ply and as
you can see this is a 30 ply but it's a
really fluffy material so it's pretty
thick versus a 50 ply here with a
thinner material and it's a little bit
thinner than the 30 ply but that will
give you kind of an indication on the
width of the
wheel they also come in a razor thin
Edge uh it's really great for getting in
those really tight little places
some will have a leather Center and some
will have say like a shellac Center both
are great uh which one you use kind of
comes down to personal preference a
little bit the leather Center is a
little softer a little more Supple so
it'll ride up higher on the spindle than
the
shellac so I'm going to um be
demonstrating some polishing techniques
and I'll do that over here on this uh
durable direct flow system which is
really great because it has a
self-contained box here that's going to
help keep all the dust down and away
from me there's a port in the back uh
where the fan will pull the dust and
debris into the filters down below so
it's very very safe I'll be lowering the
lid this will help contain the dust as
well and also keep anything that comes
flying out of my hands um from hitting
me in the face and my hands will go in
through these ports right here these
little holes they're again keeping the
dust really really under control which
is really nice so next up is um how to
decide what buff to use for the first
step
steps so this is our first stage um we
have a we have a piece that we need to
polish and get that process started with
so which one do you start with well
right here I have two different examples
I have a silver ring that I've cast and
um I've done some pre-filing work I
filed off the nub and things like that
just kind of Tred up ready for that
first polishing stage um so I have a lot
of deep scratches I need to get rid of
and I want to do that fairly quickly so
I'm going to use a cut down process this
is going to be with a uh pre-treated
buff and also bobbing compound uh the
these two work really well together um
the pre-treated cloth Buffs are very
rigid very stiff and the chemical that's
in here was it going to help retain that
compound longer and allow it to cut that
ring faster one of the great things
about these stitched Buffs is that as
you use them uh they're going to get
really stiff if you can see right here
this is much stiffer than it came
previously because this all wears down
so what you can do is you can actually
remove the stitching when it gets to be
too stiff just take a knife and kind
of pluck that up a little bit and you
got to do both sides and you can pull a
string out like
that and that'll open up a whole new
layer um for you to keep on using now it
will be soft
so some applications if you wanted a
really stiff buff you would keep that
there um if you want a little bit softer
then you can remove it but the cool
thing is you can just peel that apart
kind of work it Loose a little bit and
now you're back to a softer buff so and
you can do that on all the different
Stitch Buffs not just the yellow
pre-treated
ones so I'm going to do is I'm going to
take uh the wheel here and my ring and
some bobbing compound and take it to the
buffer and go ahead and buff this
up
so what I'm doing right now is I'm
applying the bobbing compound to the
buff and I'm going to go ahead and start
polishing the ring with this cut down uh
the yellow pre-treated buff in the
bobbing compound and um going ahead and
start get these big scratches out right
away I'm applying like a medium to light
pressure um on this if I this is a
silver ring and if I push down real hard
it's going to get warm really fast and
it's already starting to heat up one
thing I could do is use a finger
protection like uh alligator tape or a
finger guard something like that and
that'll help kind of cut down the heat a
little bit so I've got most of the um uh
big scratches out it's ready for the
next stage which is going to be the
pre-polish stage so I'm about ready to
take this to the sink and clean it up
get the compound off and go on to the
next
stage now we finished our first stage
which is a cut down stage it's very
aggressive it's going to remove a lot of
the deeper scratches and things like
that it actually can reshape them met a
little bit so just be careful of of hard
edges that you want to keep because
it'll take them right out uh the next
stage is called the pre-polish stage um
this actually could be used as your
first stage for example I've switched
over here to these copper discs I've
slightly domed and uh one has a file
texture on there and the other one is
just a natural raw material um just as
it came out of the dapping block kind of
finish so it has that kind of little
rough natural material finish on there
the this would be a great starting stage
um for the pre-polish pre-polish is
going to can use a u pre-treated u buff
the yellow one that we used or can use
this tight weave muslin buff which is
another good one it's a little more
flexible than the yellow buff um so it
can handle this Dome type shape really
nicely it's going to be contoured to the
shape and things like that you can also
use um compounds like Zam which is a cut
and polish material another good one is
fabul luster um Luxy blue is another
good compound to use for this stage so
what I'll do is I'll take um I'll take
this file textured copper piece over to
the buffer uh with my my buff and uh go
ahead and polish that before I do that
though I would want to call out that
whatever buff you're using you want to
label that with the compound that you're
using on there it's really not a good
idea to use this both for bobbing
compound which is very aggressive um and
Zam because you'll never get a really
nice finish on there that way so always
make sure that your Buffs are marked
with the compound that they're going to
be used with so I'm going to head over
to the buffer and and get this
[Music]
done so uh what I'm doing right now is
I'm going ahead and apply the Zam
compound to the wheel get a nice good
coating on there and now I'm going to go
ahead and start buffing and uh I want to
buff in all kinds of different
directions here and get a nice nice
finish on there have it goes by really
fast and so just going to kind of keep
an eye on it and uh it will warm up a
little bit but it's not too bad so I got
a nice finish on there and uh I'll go
ahead and take this to the sink and go
ahead and wash off the compound uh so
it's ready for the next stage the final
polish
stage we finished our our pre-polish
stage and now we're ready to put go to
the final stage which is the high polish
um final polish stage this is when we're
going to really bring out the shine in
the object and um there's a bunch of
different Buffs that can actually do the
really good job of doing that um to go
through them kind of briefly uh we have
the coarse loose weave muslin buff a
little bit like the tight weave muslin
but it has a looser weave to it and uh
fewer stitching around the diameter so
it's going to be softer on the surface
and much more flexible so it conform to
the surface a little bit better uh much
better for your high polishing compounds
we also have the um fine all buff right
here they're again very similar to the
loose coar weave muslin uh but with no
stitching so it's very very flexible and
um you can really conform to the shapes
really very
nicely and similar to that is the
balloon cloth buff right here U same
kind of construction but this one
actually made with balloon cloth one of
the advantages to this is it does lint
less than the muslin and the flannel uh
Buffs um which is really nice and it
does a beautiful finish on there we also
have the flannel buff and uh it's very
very soft and supple they very very fine
threads on the surface now this will
lent quite a bit as you're using it and
that's totally
normal so what you're going to have to
end up doing is probably it'll shrink in
diameter over time and you'll have to
end up cutting the threads and kind of
keep so you can keep using this buff but
because of the really soft threads up
here you're going to get a very nice
finish on your piece
we also have a shammy buff uh this is
made from really fine Supple leather and
um really conforms to the surface of
your piece really nicely it doesn't lint
in much in really the same way as the
muslin does um it does discharge a kind
of debris but it's not the same as the
kind of lint um leaves a really
beautiful finish it's a little bit
slightly different than the other Buffs
um so it's definitely worth trying out
and seeing if you like it so what I'm
going to do is I'm going to take that uh
copper disc I was working on earlier
with the last stage I've washed it made
sure there's none of the Zam on here and
I I left some of the file marks on here
to see what our buff and compound will
do to those scratches maybe it'll take
them out maybe it won't so I'm going to
give it a shot with the
um flannel buff right here and the luxie
fine white Polishing Compound so I'm
going to take this to the buffer and get
it set up and we'll polish this
up
so what I'm doing right now is I'm
applying the luxi compound to the buff
getting a nice coating on there and then
I'm going to start polishing the copper
discs and I'm going to start on the part
that's nicely polished and see where
that's going and then I'm going to see
what this compound and buff will do to
the file
marks it's doing a job it's kind of
taking them out a little bit but I think
the pre-polish stage really helped me
and that's coming out really nice so I'm
going to go ahead and do is finish this
up and um what I'm done is I'll go ahead
and clean the compound off and uh I'll
be done with my my polishing so I um
finished up that final polish stage I
went ahead and cleaned out the compound
off and I kind of wanted to show you
guys the differences between the
pre-polish stage and how that affected
the piece and also the part that it did
not so if you look right here right
there it's very smooth there's no little
scratches or anything like that and
that's the side that I did the
pre-polish on and then if I turn it
around you can see this part where I
didn't so there's still some scratches
left that's when it really would have
paid off to do that pre-polish stage um
because in order to get that out with
the flannel buff and the Luxy white
would have taken a lot more time so
sometimes taking a lot of Little Steps
will get you to the Finish Line faster
than taking one big huge step with just
one buff in one compound so there's a
lot of different Buffs to choose from we
you know from pre-treated all the way to
the shammy and uh there's no reason why
you couldn't use perhaps the tight weave
muslin buff with the Luxy fine white
that's going to give you a different
finish and different results um what you
might notice though is that final
polishing compounds on the treated cloth
and maybe not work so much I hope this
is of some help if you have any
questions give us a call at800 545
6566 or visit us on the website at r
grande.com
[Music]
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