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Why Food in US is SO ADDICTIVE

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“Only about 15 cents on every dollar you spend at the grocery store goes to the farmer.”
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FULL TRANSCRIPT

0:00

You trundle down the aisle, your eyes wide, and your stomach craving. YEvery glance at

0:04

the shelves is a flash of nostalgia, a reminder of commercials that once glued you to the TV.

0:10

Your cart fills effortlessly, guided not by choice but by decades of subtle influence.

0:15

Surrounded by towering walls of familiar logos, amazed by a cornucopia of colorful packages. It

0:20

feels like a shopper’s paradise, but it’s not. What looks like endless freedom is a

0:26

cleverly crafted “illusion of choice.” Almost every item you’ll toss into your

0:30

cart is owned by just four or five giant corporations. In the United States alone,

0:35

these behemoths dictate what’s on your table. And on a global scale, the stranglehold is

0:40

even tighter- 10 companies control more than half the world’s food and beverage supply.

0:45

How did this happen and does it matter for regular folks like us? That’s what we’ll find

0:49

out on this episode of The Infographics Show - The Companies That Secretly Decide What You Eat.

0:55

“You are what you eat.” It’s a phrase we’ve all heard. It originates from Anthelme

0:59

Brillat-Savarin, a French lawyer and nutritionist, who wrote in his 1826 book, Physiologie du Goût

1:04

(The Physiology of Taste): "Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you what you are."

1:09

“The fate of a nation,” he explained, “depends on the way that they eat.” If that’s true for

1:13

Americans…well… Houston, we have a major problem. It’s believed that ultra-processed foods, or UPFs,

1:20

dominate our diets. These are products loaded with unrecognizable additives-

1:24

ingredients that often make the food look and taste nothing like what it started as.

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UPFs make up about 60% of the average American adult’s diet- and 70% of what kids consume daily.

1:35

It might depend on where you live and how much cash you have at your disposal because if you

1:40

tick certain boxes, it could be 90% of your diet. It’s pushed on you daily- like a legal addiction.

1:46

Your brain, hardwired for survival, lights up with dopamine blasts from the heavy doses of carbs,

1:51

salt, and sugar packed into these foods. It’s not your fault. These ultra-processed foods are

1:57

designed to hijack your cravings, keeping you coming back for more, day after day. The food

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giants know what they peddle isn’t always good for us, but they still spend about $14

2:07

billion each year on advertising in the U.S. alone. About 80% of those stomach-rumbling ads

2:13

promote this culinary crack and keep you hooked. A 2017-2018 study revealed that 42% of American

2:20

adults are currently obese, a rate projected to go up to 50% by 2030. 6 in 10 US adults according to

2:27

a recent study routinely eat foods that increase the risk of chronic conditions like heart disease

2:33

and cancer. However, some people don’t have much choice. Around 19 million Americans live in “food

2:39

deserts”- low-income, low-access areas where getting to a grocery store is a challenge. And

2:44

when they manage to get there, the nutrient-rich, “good stuff” is often scarce or out of reach.

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Even if you don’t live in a food desert, your options aren’t always as great as they seem.

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It’s not just the US. Europe’s leading UPF consumer, the UK, is home to adults whose diet

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is about 60% UPFs - 65% for children, although the stats differ depending on where you look

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for them. And like the US, how much cash you have matters…a lot. A recent Food Foundation

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report said per calorie, cheap food in the UK is half as expensive. For the poorest 20% of

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British households, meeting national healthy diet recommendations would require spending half their

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disposable income on food- something that isn’t going to happen. This is one of the reasons why UK

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scientists have talked about a “dismal” and “jaw-dropping” low life expectancy in

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deprived areas where, like in the US, lower wage earners and the poor get sicker at a younger age,

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and clock out of life faster. Processing food in and of itself

3:44

isn’t a bad thing. When Henry VIII said he wanted smoked eel with some pickles- he got

3:49

processed eel and processed vegetables. It still tasted like, and his veg was tangy,

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just how he liked it. But today, if you bought a frozen box of chicken and pasta with sauce,

4:00

it would be filled with imposters. Sure, there might be some chicken- or maybe some mechanically

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separated chicken or chicken byproducts- but there would also be additives for flavor, preservation,

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texture, and color. Much of what you buy in your grocery store contains these added properties.

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So, we’ve been processing food for millennia, but it’s the ultra part that is problematic.

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When a large portion of your plate is made up of colorings, bulking agents, flavor enhancers,

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cheap sweeteners, trans fats, emulsifiers, acidulants, fortified nutrients, gases,

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hydrolyzed protein isolates, anti-foaming agents, humectants or moisture retention agents,

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and who knows what else the food industry’s alchemists have concocted… it’s not food anymore.

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But it’s all in there to make it taste better, last longer, and most importantly, cost less.

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Our modern UPF-laden diet is why we’ve seen such huge, and we mean huge, increases in obesity

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and obesity-related diseases like diabetes. This modern diet is said to be behind the rise of heart

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disease and certain cancers. Heart disease in the US at the start of the 20th wasn’t common at all,

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and now it’s the leading cause of death. Why? Well, trans fats haven’t helped,

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and neither have sweeteners or many of the questionable additives we encounter daily. A

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lot of these ingredients sit uncomfortably on the we-think-it’s-safe-to-eat-but-not-everyone-does

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list. Let’s delve deeper into

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who controls all these mega-processed items that line the aisles of your local supermarket. Well,

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we say local, but things have changed. Up until around the 1980s-90s, many Americans bought their

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groceries from small outlets, local grocery stores, butchers and bakers- where mom-and-pop

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were the CEOs. Now 65% of the US grocery market is controlled by four companies: Walmart, Costco,

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Kroger, and Ahold Delhaize. They can keep costs down by buying in bulk from global companies who

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have mechanized, and at times, compromised the integrity of the food-making process.

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So, your cart is piled high full of goods and to you, it looks like you’ve been buying food from

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lots of different companies. You haven’t, not really. In a study by the Guardian,

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researchers bought 61 types of popular groceries from a major supermarket in America. Four or fewer

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firms controlled at least 50% of the market for 79% of the items. It’s these companies,

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the food monopolies, who dictate what farmers grow and what you eat.

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If you’re a breakfast cereal fan, you’re in good company- over 283 million Americans said

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they bought cereal, according to 2020 U.S. Census data and the Simmons National Consumer Survey.

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But despite all the choices you think you’re getting, there’s a good chance you’re buying

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from one of three companies: Kellogg’s (26.8% market share), General Mills (27.9%) or Post

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Holdings (18.1%). You might not even have heard of the last company, the guys that make Weetabix,

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Alpen, Ready Brek, Raisin Bran, and the classic, Honey Bunches of Oats. And for that last one,

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sure, you get oats, you get honey, but you also get lots of Corn Syrup, Artificial Flavors, Oil,

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Coloring, and a controversial preservative we’ll talk about later: BHT (Butylated Hydroxytoluene).

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Maybe you want bread. Well, despite all the brands you see, over 50% of all of the market

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is controlled by two companies: Grupo Bimbo and Flowers Foods. Grupo what we hear you ask… but

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it’s behind 100 brands and 13,000 products. Or maybe you want some packaged rice or pasta. If

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it’s the latter, you’re likely buying from Barilla (33.2% market share) or Ebro Foods (28.2%). Ebro

7:25

is also behind over 22% of the rice you buy, followed by Mars (15.9%) and Unilever (7.9%).

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As for soft drinks, we’re sure you’re already aware you’re buying from pretty much three

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companies: Coca-Cola (42.4% market share), Pepsi-Co (27.4%), or Keurig Dr. Pepper (23.1%),

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each of them experts at marketing. They also control most of the juice market, although

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Kraft-Heinz has almost a 10% market share of that. As for beer, Anheuser-Busch- the owners of

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Budweiser, Stella Artois and Michelob- has almost a 42% market share and Molson Coors just over 24%.

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Ok, what about ready meals, the dry ones with meat? Well, if that’s your food of choice,

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Conagra Brands is the biggest supplier. It has almost a 60% market share. You name it,

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Conagra does it. From making Bertolli olive oil and Chef Boyardee pasta to Healthy Choice

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meals and countless other products, like TV dinners and sauces to whips, dips, snacks,

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processed meats, popcorn, and pizzas. If it’s on your plate, there’s a good chance Conagra

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had a hand in making it. Kraft-Heinz, General Mills, and the Campbell Soup Company are also

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big players in the single-serving meal market. If you want frozen pizza, Nestle is your master

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with a 40% market share. It’s also doing well in the baby food business with a 24%

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market share but after Abbott Laboratories (31.4%) and Reckitt Benckiser (26.3%).

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Dips, that’s over 87% PepsiCo. Unilever has around a 50% market share of Mayo and Kraft Heinz comes

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in at 30%. Chocolate: 41.5% Hershey and over 27% Mars. Yogurt, that’s 33% Danone. Sour cream,

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almost 52% Daisy. Cheese slices you can guess are around 65% Kraft Heinz and it also does ok

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in the bacon business with over 18%. As for the meat masters, Tyson is huge, but behind

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Brazil’s JBS on a global scale. The WH Group from China is also doing well in the meat department.

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We think you get the picture. The food giants supply most of what you eat. They spent about

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$175 million in 2020 on lobbying and keeping politicians sweet, and over the years they’ve

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been merging, so getting bigger. In the 1980s, the pork and beef behemoths controlled just

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less than 40% of the respective markets, but with mergers, now over 80% beef and

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about 70% pork is controlled by the giants. Like processing, in and of itself this isn’t

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always a bad thing. You get cheaper products because they’re being made at a scale that

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would be mind-boggling to someone 50 years ago. At the start of the 20th century,

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malnutrition affected 20-30% of the population in the US’s most impoverished areas. Nowadays you

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rarely hear about Americans starving- the problem is they might look like kings of full fridges,

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but their calorie-dense diets don’t always provide enough nutrients. Still, the world has come a long

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way, most of us can afford to eat something, and that’s thanks in part to the fact the food

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on our plates came out of an industrial process. One of the negative consequences is that farmers

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are struggling. Livestock farmers in the US will very likely work for the Big Four: Tyson, JBS,

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Cargill, or the National Beef Packing Company. They dictate the prices, and it seems the prices

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aren’t great, which is why Time magazine in 2019 said, “American Farmers Are Nearing Extinction.”

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The article explained, “The nation lost more than 100,000 farms between 2011 and 2018;

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12,000 of those between 2017 and 2018 alone.” One of the reasons is globalization- giant

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global food firms offering competitive prices. For a farmer to compete, they might have to pay

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lower wages. Of the 2.5 million farm laborers in the US anywhere from 50 to 75% are low-paid

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and undocumented. Only about 15 cents on every dollar you spend at the grocery store goes to

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the farmer. Meanwhile, the food giants are making record-breaking profits. We won’t go

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through all the companies’ revenues, but suffice it to say, they are making many billions each

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year thanks to their control of the market. Raj Patel, an academic and author, told The

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Guardian, “This is at the heart of capitalist food politics – big corporations taking as much as they

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can and paying as little as possible for it.” These critics of the food system partly blame

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mergers and acquisitions. Companies merge and consolidate, buying out the competition. Take

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the seed market, for example. 25 years ago, ten corporations controlled about 40% of this market,

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but after a series of acquisitions, just four companies now control over half of it:

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Bayer, Corteva, Syngenta, and BASF. They also control over 60% of the

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agrochemical market. They tell farmers what to plant, which means less biodiversity and

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fewer nutrients for you, the consumer. One of the most controversial corporate

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mergers in recent history came when American agrochemical giant Monsanto was acquired by

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German pharmaceutical and biotechnology powerhouse Bayer. The US Justice Department said the merger

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would “likely result in hundreds of millions of dollars per year in harm, raising costs to farmers

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and consumers.” Now one firm controls pretty much the world’s supply of seeds and pesticides.

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Monsanto/Bayer controls around 80% of U.S. corn production. This corn is used to sweeten processed

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food for humans when it’s turned into corn syrup. It keeps livestock full in the form of high-energy

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feed so you can fill up on meat products. Farmers sign contracts to buy genetically modified seeds

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that are resistant to herbicides that are also sold by Bayer. The farmers agree not to

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save seeds for next year’s planting season- well, they don’t really have much choice but to agree.

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These big seed companies aggressively protect their IP rights, which leads to

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less innovation and research, further bolstering their monopoly. They launch lawsuits for patent

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infringement against any farmers trying to get around this. So, we, the consumers,

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get what Bayer wants the farmers to grow and what the Big Food companies can make the most

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money from. It’s a bit more complicated, but this is a major reason why we eat what we eat.

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You also have the big firms that process the corn, turning it into High-Fructose Corn Syrup,

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or HFCS, animal feed, or ethanol. A few companies own that, too. Together, ADM, Bunge, Cargill,

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COFCO, and the Louis Dreyfus Company have an 80% market share - and it’s not just for corn,

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but for soy, grain, and sugar. Some firms, like Tyson, control the process from start to finish,

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what’s called being vertically integrated. This means they sell the seeds that feed the

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animals that make their sausages. When food is made by giants,

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we get factory farming. In the US, the days of small farmers farming the old way have been

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coming to an end. All added up the USA is home to about 1.7 billion factory farm animals – a

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50% increase over the last twenty years. A 2019 study revealed the overwhelming

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dominance of factory farming in America’s meat supply. An astonishing 99.9% of the

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nearly 9 billion chickens, 98% of the 71 million pigs, 70% of the 94 million cows, and 99.8% of

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the 216 million turkeys are raised on factory farms. If we add up how much collective pooping

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they do – and this is a VERY rough estimate – that’s about 343 million tons of chicken caca,

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82.5 million tons of pig poop, 1.1 billion tons of cow crap, and 1.55 million tons of Turkey tots.

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That’s about 1.53 billion tons of excrement per year, which can contaminate waterways and could

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create dead zones where you wouldn’t want to have a picnic. Not long ago, beaches in Florida

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were said to have been covered in green slime thanks in part to our contaminated waterways,

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and a “dead zone” in the Gulf of America, formerly known as the Gulf of Mexico, was

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partly blamed on Big Food. The smaller farmers, who might be better equipped to turn animal waste

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into a natural fertilizer, have mostly been priced out of the game. This is depressingly evident with

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the very high rates of American farmers deciding to retire early into that great field in the sky.

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Of course, as a consumer, you’d probably prefer to enjoy a bacon double-cheeseburger knowing the pig,

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cow, and the chicken that laid the egg for the mayo didn’t endure a life so grim

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that it would make Guantanamo Bay seem like a 5-star hotel. Most people make choices based

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on cost-effectiveness, even if it comes at a price: poor conditions for animals,

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low wages for laborers and farmers, soil erosion from monoculture farming- and more additives in

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products you already suspect aren’t good for you. In 2015, a study showed that over the previous 50

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years or so, the number of food additives in our food supply has risen from 800 to over 10,000…

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and the FDA is still playing catch-up. These additives might have been passed off

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as “generally recognized as safe” to humans but it appears that’s sometimes a dubious statement.

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When regulations fall short, disasters can happen- like in 2022, when people ate Daily

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Harvest’s French Lentil & Leek Crumbles. It contained a compound in an ingredient

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called tara flour that put over 100 people in hospital, some with severe symptoms, including

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liver injuries. The compound at fault wasn’t even in the FDA’s database. NPR when writing about

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this topic said companies “regularly introduce new additives without ever informing the FDA.”

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When food is made on such a massive scale, corners are sometimes cut, which is why in the

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USA for years there were no warnings on foods that contained partially hydrogenated oils (PHOs), a

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type of trans fat. They give products such as chips, deep-fried stuff, and baked goods a

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better texture and longer shelf life. But they have also been proven to increase the risk of

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heart disease, stroke, and type 2 diabetes. We also know that high fructose corn syrup

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(HFCS) isn’t good for us, yet it’s everywhere- in cereal, candies, soft drinks, condiments,

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fast food, canned foods, baked goods, yogurts, and even in products you’d never expect. It’s one of

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the many drivers behind the rise in obesity and related diseases. And it’s all over your grocery

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store shelves. A quick glance at the small print on the back of most products will reveal just how

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widespread it really is. The Food Institute in 2024 said some politicians are fighting back,

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stating, “Its detractors claim high-fructose corn syrup is even more pernicious than table

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sugar in the battle against the obesity epidemic and related metabolic disorders.”

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In 1999, Americans consumed about 63.7 pounds of HSCF per person per year. That went down

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to 59 pounds in 2005 and in 2023 it was about 53 pounds per year on average. This is better,

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but we still eat too much of it. The fructose from high fructose corn syrup or regular table

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sugar is harder to metabolize than glucose. It overwhelms the liver so can cause non-alcoholic

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