トランスクリプトEnglish

Cabinet of Curiosities: Monkey Fur Cape

5m 31s826 単語132 segmentsEnglish

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[Music]

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gifted to the York County History Center

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in

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2017 this cape was owned and used by

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Ethel gunnet who originally received the

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cape from the estate of a woman who she

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cleaned for in York

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Pennsylvania Ethel passed the cape down

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to her niece Patricia shell in

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1973 this cape is made of black and

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white cob monkey fur gaining the

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knowledge that this jacket is made of

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monkey fur elicits thoughts for everyone

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whether it be discussed at how long and

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humanlike the fur is or Intrigue into

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the craft required to construct it

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despite personal feelings fur has been a

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staple in the human dress for thousands

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of years and this example highlights the

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use of fur in high

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fashion monkey fur is most often

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associated with use in the 1930s but

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with was also used in the 19th century a

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March 1867 article from Arthur's Home

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magazine describes monkey fur as well

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known prized for how elegantly it hung

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over the hands when made into a

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muff designer Elsa skia pelli brought

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monkey fur to hot Couture fashion in the

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1930s in 1933 skia pelli presented a

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shoulder tray coat with a ring of long

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black monkey fur encircling the coat at

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shoulder height later in the 1930s skia

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parelli introduced several garments

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featuring monkey fur and after this it

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quickly became a feature on readymade

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garments in advertisements monkey fur

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was described as modern daring and

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sophisticated the monkey fur used by

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skia pelli and this cape comes from the

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colobus monkey native to Africa the

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cobus is an arboreal monkey meaning it

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spends most of its life in the tree

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canopy the colobus monkeys vary in color

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and the black and white variety is most

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commonly sought after for the contrast

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between the two colors Western

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fashionable dress no longer uses cobus

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monkey fur as they are currently at risk

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from habitat loss due to

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deforestation it is important to

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remember that where there is hair there

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is also skin loss of flexibility

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vulnerability to dry rot oxidation and

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color change are all a part of the

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natural degradation of skins and

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furs what a garment is made out of is

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important because it allows collection

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staff to know how it may react to

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different agents of

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deterioration like all other Museum

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objects fur garments are susceptible to

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improper temperature and relative

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humidity levels light damage water

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damage pests and

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more minimizing external threats

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maintaining proper climate and using

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archival materials for storage and

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display of fur garments can slow down

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these effects and promote their

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longevity as well as periodic monitoring

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of the storage space by

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staff artifacts are susceptible to

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external threats and sometimes the

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artifact itself can be dangerous to us

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as well Zoological fashions that contain

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taxidermied animals or animal parts are

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often prepared with arsenic to ward off

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pests and that poses a risk to the staff

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which is why it is important to wear

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gloves and other PPE like aprons and

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particle filtering face masks as

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especially if it is unknown whether or

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not something may contain harmful

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chemicals because fur garments are

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subject to fur loss they should be

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handled as minimally as possible the

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Cape is cleaned using a hepo filtered

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vacuum which has two layers of mesh

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secured to the end of the wand with a

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rubber band dust and debris is directed

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into the stream of the vacuum using a

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low suction and a soft natural bristle

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brush moving in the same direction as

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the natural grain of the fur

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after processing and cleaning the object

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is ready to be

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rehoused because there is fur on all

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sides of the object it cannot be simply

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placed in a box placing this in a box

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would promote fur matting and even

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further fur loss the interior of the

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Cape is lined with silk which is

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slightly discolored and in good

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condition with no indications of

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shattering or

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brittleness there is relatively even

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weight distribution on the front and

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back of the cape so a padded hanger

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providing support is the best solution

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for long-term storage in this

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case we use a paper pattern in the

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correct size in this case adult and cut

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two pieces of muslin using the pattern

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the two pieces are sewn using a sewing

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machine to create a neat bottom Edge and

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then the two sides are sewn together

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leaving a small Gap at the top where the

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hook of the hanger is fed through the

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hanger is covered in Cotton batting

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using using a needle and thread to

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secure the bottom in

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place the sewn cover is then flipped

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right side out the muslin cover is

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placed over the hanger covered in the

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batting the cover is secured at the

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bottom with a few final stitches and now

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the hanger is ready for the cape and

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most importantly the Cape is ready for

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long-term

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[Music]

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storage

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